i am doing this job this weekend and have a question. will the aux water pump come out with the oil filter housing? the whole reason for my task is the aux water pump is leaking so its getting replaced. so the hoses will have to come off of it regardless. but it seems it might be easier to remove/reattach it to the oil filter housing on the bench

 

Its right to the side of it (looking straight on) . You can unbolt the bracket and move it out of the way, its quick and easy. two little coolant lines also.

#1

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_3946

 

thanks ECS. looks like the pump arrived from you a couple hours ago

 

You are welcome.

 

We have an Auxiliary Coolant Pump Replacement DIY here that may be of some assistance.

 

NO NO NO...don't do that to yourself my bro. That would be creating a huge mess for no reason. That aux pump sits next to oil filter housing but its not integral. Leave the oil filter housing alone.

 

I'm about to start this project this weekend. Things I want to make sure of:

I need to take the aux water pump off?

I need to change the oil?

 

i did this yesterday. i did not put the car in service mode because i didn't want to disconnect every single sensor and take off the bumper, etc like i did the last time i had to do an ac condenser. I also didn't have the sliding pins (forgot about them) and I guess would have had to scramble to lowes/homedepot to find bolts to use instead of the pins. to me it seemed the extra room given might not have been worth the time spent in the end.

this may have been a mistake.

I also did the water pump and crank seal at the same time. that took less than an hour, which was good.

so yes, i would suggest you have new coolant and oil on hand. i didn't change the filter because i did an oil change 2 weeks ago before the gaskets started leaking worse, still hoping to put this off. drained the coolant before starting to try to lessen the mess. the aux water pump bolts to the housing, so yes, it needs to come off as well. i thought it would be easier to take the hoses off, then take the aux pump off, then the filter housing, but when i put it back together i did put the housing on and one of the hoses first. be careful with the top most hose, i would use some vaseline on the outside of the top inlet just to assist on getting that hose back on.

so, first off, **** those heat shields. getting to all the hidden/in plain view but impossible to get to bolts was a huge source of frustration. once i got them off though, it was relatively straightforward, just time consuming.

i meant to take pictures all along the way but that went out of the window after getting frustrated trying to get all 11ty heat shield bolts, then actually get them out of the engine bay without bending them too badly.

anyway, woe is me, because the gaskets were clearly trashed, but that wasn't 100% the source of my leak. i'll be draining the oil and resealing the pan next weekend. sigh.

 

I replaced the oil filter housing gaskets, oil cooler gaskets, turbo oil supply and drain lines, and vacuum pump o-ring in my 2009 Clubman S. I put the front end into service mode. I did not have to mess with the auxiliary water pump. I did not replace the oil after, but I did have to add about half a quart after. I also had to add about half a quart or a quart of coolant/distilled water mix afterwards. It seems to me that there was no internal mixing of the oil and coolant, or if there was it was very little. Hope that helps. It took me 16 hours to do the entire job.

 

just responding to this:


not sure how that is possible when the outer cat shield bolts to the one bolted to the block. maybe they take those bolts out and never put them back in after doing this once? i know my shields did not have nuts on those studs, so when the dealership did the turbo lines they must not have thought they were necessary.

 

A service advisor I trust at Mini Camarillo told me they can do the job in about half the time it takes an individual because they have shortcuts, probably like the one you mentioned. Unfortunately he didn't tell me what the shortcuts are.

 

probably because "oh well from the factory the heat shields are held together by 20 bolts and four nuts, but when we put them back on we only use 7 bolts" doesn't sound so great

 

They probably don't take the car to "service mode" which isn't required to complete this job anyway, just giving themselves a little pat on the back.

I have done this job in under 2 hours on cars that haven't been leaking for years and don't require 45 minutes of cleanup, but some cars do take about 3- 3.5 hours depending on how much of a mess there is to clean up. (which most dealerships don't clean, because the tech is usually responsible for cleaning supplies after the first can of brake clean.)

Hopefully you're replacing the oil feed line and other components in the area while you have all of this apart.

If not I'd recommend our Detroit Tuned Turbo Oil Super Kit

You'd be amazed at how many times this has been the case.

 

y2kaaron,

I would be prepared to drain the engine oil, set it aside, and reuse it. Same for the coolant, reason being, when you pull the filter housing/cooler off you can cross contaminate oil with coolant, as the oil and coolant journals are next to each other. If you drain it all first there is less mess and less chance of cross contamination.

Also, leave the drain plug for the oil pan off in case any coolant gets in the crankcase it will drip out.

You need to pull a hose off of the aux coolant pump, but not the entire pump (its tiny) if my memory serves me.

REMEMBER: when putting the filter housing back on after youve changed the gaskets, make sure you tighten the bolts carefully, crisscrossing and using a 1/4 torque wrench.

If I had to do this job again, I would put the car in service mode. It will save you much aggravation. And run the car in service mode to check for leaks. Just have plenty of body clips on hand for the fender covers. There is no getting them off without breaking those clips.

 

Be careful with the WAY MOTOR WORKS tuned turbo oil line. They gave me some junk banjo bolts that broke in the engine block. I was using a torque wrench.

 

Dude I feel your pain. Ive been chasing oil leaks for months.

As for the oil pan see: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...per-s-n14.html

P.S. I drove in one of those Turbo6s when I was a kid. Those cars were way ahead of their time.

 

wife said monday smoke was waaay less and the past few days she hasn't seen any smoke so i MIGHT be in the clear.... maybe it was just residual stuff. i emptied half a can of brake cleaner all over the bottom of the motor and flex joint tonight. fingers crossed... if not.. well i already bought the big tube of loctite. can't return it so i guess i will try it next oil change unless it starts smoking again. if that still doesn't work i'll try to wait another 6-7k or so and try the felpro. thanks for the link.

 

T6,

Oh so your leak was bad enough to cause engine oil to start to burn on the engine block?

 

not the engine block. if the outside of the block gets hot enough to burn oil i think you might have other problems.. it was dripping down onto the downpipe and flex pipe, which of course are waaaay hotter. once the car got up to temp the exhaust would get hot enough for the oil to start to smoke as it lightly burned off.

probably not much of a fire hazard since there's nothing to burn as long as the dp wasn't wrapped. my buick used to leak from the rear main onto the crossover pipe all the time. unsightly, but i put 100k on it without a problem.

 

Wait....you mean to tell me that my engine block isnt supposed to be glowing red?

So your oil leak was dripping onto the downpipe? That's SMOKIN!

 

i saw somewhere that you had to remove the turbo charger to get to the oil filter housing to replace the gaskets. Is this necessary or just makes it easier? i want to remove as less as possible when i'm doing this.

 

No, i did it, did not remove the turbo, you dont have to remove the turbo :

Start from the beginning.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html

 

I did this repair last spring. It's a P.I.T.A. I removed the intake, and Cat. Then I split the turbo in half removing the cold side (carefully so you don't damage the fins. I also removed the whole plastic intake to the AF.

Now you have some space.

A word to the wise. Take the whole oil filter housing to a machine shop and have them either check it to make sure its actually flat or have them machine it flat so that you have a little more squish when you reinstall it. You will have to move the water reservoir out of the way being careful not to break it. I like bungee chords to hang it from the hood just to let it stay out of the way, but since you are draining most of the fluid out of the radiator removing it is a good idea. (Is it radiator flush time?)

A word to the wise #2.
Replace the oil line, thermostat, and aux water pump while you are down there as well as any water lines that look tired. Make sure you have an oil line that is wrapped in heat reflective material and use new bolts for everything.

A word to the wise #3
Check to make sure your turbo shaft is in good shape. No movement. A machine shop can do this as well. And don't lose the metal gasket that sits between the housing halves. If there is oil in your turbo or the shaft is worn -be prepared (new turbo + new cat)

Best. Send pix and notes. DR

 

Kinda what i thought. As far as the downpipe, this is the actual cat converter correct from turbo charger down to the bottom exhaust correct? I just keep hearing the word downpipes but when i look up parts, its called the catalytic converter.

 

down pipe is just semantics. It's the CAT you are looking at. Good luck. An extra pair of hands would be good when you remove the cat so it doesn't fall in your face. Remember to remove all the fittings to the block as well as they are in the way and should be connected last after you re-install the cat. It's a weird arrangement IMHO.