Looks like my CEL problem solved itself. After numerous starts/stops and drives of varying distances, the light vanished when I started the car after picking up my girlfriend from work tonight. I guess she had the magic touch or something.

Thanks to all who chimed in during the interim.

 

We were discussing this over on PSmini, the Seafoam's probably a good idea for cleaning up the sludge on the backside of the intake valves, but I wonder if it's not a better idea to take our cars in & get the route problem fixed. Mini has a valve stem seal repair kit listed and there's an updated valve cover with 'better' baffling. Between Mini's ridiculous oil change intervals and the lack of fuel spray to wash off the intake valves, sludge is going to be a big problem with these engines.

 

Most likely you loosened up some build-up/deposits and they probably didn't burn off right away, and caused a misfire CEL. As you found out, it will go away on it's own

The MINI tech's said that happens sometimes, they warned me of it before I did my car...no biggie though

 

That is what happened to mine a while back. After the rest period I started it up and the CEL came on. I let it run 'till most of the smoke had stopped then drove it hard. When I got back home the CEL was still on. I used my scanner and it showed 4 misfire codes and I think 2 sensor codes. I reset the codes and drove it again and the CEL never showed up.

This happened to me a few years ago on my Camaro, too. It's no big deal. SeaFoam really can't hurt anything. Only thing I found out best to do is change your oil ~500 miles after you put some into the crank case. Helps get out some of the deposits. (might be peace-of-mind for me though...)

 

After getting nowhere with my dealer, I SeaFoamed my 50K R56 this past weekend and cleared most of my stumbling, knock and puff (superknock) and low-speed throttle response problems after two treatments. I threw CEL's after both treatments and had to clear them after some misfires on restart.

I think my car is pretty heavily carboned based on it's mileage, severity of symptoms and general consensus of the experiences contained on this forum. I've put 300 miles on since treatment and there's a noticable (eg: big, significant, Holy-**** Batman!) difference in performance, driveability and engine smoothness.

I think this weekend is going to bring two more rounds of treatments and finalize with a new set of plugs and a Riss Racing catch can on the right-side VC PCV port.

I suppose ongoing maintenance at LOF intervals with SeaFoam is a cheap investment in engine health. Anyone on the fence about doing this treatment should hop down and just do it. You'll hate yourself for waiting as long as I did.

 

That is truly great to hear. That is enough proof right there to do it.

 

:( How much does it cost, and how many ml or oz are in the cans. (I need to know so I can organize shipping down under)...

 

i went to walmart the other day i saw seafoam selling for around $8.50 a can

 

thx. Any idea on the volume of product?

 

It's around 16oz

 

thx guys

 

Funny you should mention doing two more rounds of treatment. I plan on doing another treatment this weekend. This was recommennded by a BMW Z3 owner to do a second treatment.

I also mentioned to a parts guy that does both MINI and BMW parts counters. He stated that the R56 has a big problem with the carbon build-up.

I know Louise feels so much better after doing the first Seafoam treatment.

 

so is the consensus just putting it into the pcv valve is what you want to do? not the fuel tank or crankcase?

 

yes, as that is the only way it will hit the problem area....the intake valves.

 

i did it, i feel like my mini is idleing soooo much smoother now

 

So a week later I did the Seafoam treatment again and it still made a difference. The MINI starts faster and throttle response is a bit quicker. I guess the carbon build up in my ride was worse than I thought.........

I will be installing the new fuel filter when I get home today.

 

Ok so I happen to be in Pep Boys this morning getting a spare snow tire mounted on a spare wheel, happen to see this seafoam stuff on the shelf and was wondering really how good it is as it was half the price of basically everything else that was there. I picked up 12, 16 OZ cans as they were 5.98 each and I need it for the cars and the boat. Going to put it in the Mini ,the Grand Prix and my Carver, and see how good it works as I am still skeptical cause of the price.

 

You're skeptical of it and you bought 12? I like your style!!

 

LOL! Lifetime supply? Skeptical?

Nothing to be skeptical about. The Prince engine is inherently susceptible to carbon on the backs of the intake valves. Seafoam busts up carbon in the intake tract and burns off harmlessly. It's been around for some time, only getting notice here recently.

I've never had a direct injected engine to bother with the stuff - we used to drip water into the intakes on early diesel engines to do the same thing. I would suggest Seafoam is a better option than water!

Do the treatment. You'll be a believer. Also give some thought to adding a catch can to the breather tube outlet on the right of the VC. It feeds oil vapor directly to the intake manifold under full manifold vacuum and is partially responsible for the carboning issue. Riss Racing is doing a deal right now on a black can with install kit for $89.00. That's a deal since they hit me for $124.00 last week. I might buy another just to do the left VC outlet.

 

Hardly a lifetime supply with 4 cars and a boat that holds 300 gallons of gas, 2 cans are in 2 cars already we shall see how it does.

I also agree on the water drip, we use to pour 8 OZ of water into carb cars and it would blow all the carbon clear out.

 

Okay just bought 2 cans and some tubing. My question is looking at the diagram posted by thumper(thanks always very helpful) where does the seafoam go in? The hose itself or to where the hose connects? Sorry, but I'm not thee most mechanically inclined. I expect to see lots of crap come out since I have almost 60k

 

It goes down the hose.

If you poured it into where the hose connects it would drip down to your crankcase and start an unintentional oil treatment, then you would have to change your oil at 500 miles after that point.

 

Yes, down the tube. With PCV tube disconnected/engine running, you'll feel the tube pulling a hard vacuum since it's direct to intake. Plug the vacuum with your thumb and whatever tubing you're using. DRIP the Seafoam into the tube, don't pour it. Let the tubing suck the Seafoam slowly into the intake. I used 1/4" clear polyethylene tubing and tied a knot in it to regulate fluid intake. The key is to introduce the Seafoam slowly.

Then let it all sit as described in Thumpers thread and make smoke!

Go for it - you can do this.

 

Check www.carfood.net which sells Sea Foam and many similar products for clearing the carbon. Their valved drip Feeder Bottle system makes it easy to insert the Sea Foam or Trimaxx or BG or whatever and not have risk of hydrolock due to dumping too much fluid in at once. It has an adjusment valve to control the flow of fluid mixed with air into the motor. I have had one for years and used it many cars. A temporary check engine light after treatment is not uncommon. It may self clear or require a battery disconnection.

To the member in Australia, save your money on shipping. I am sure they sell a similar product down under. Ask at auto parts stores for an engine top end cleaner or carbon remover product. It is very common and Sea Foam has lots of competition. Look at all the products at carfood.net

 

Thanks. Thing is, I'm asking around, and no-one has a clue what I'm talking about. I tell them that I need a top-end cleaner that dissolves carbon, and all they know is "carby cleaner and injector cleaner."

I don't think they know what an engine is.