It boils down to what the objective is - for example, I miss read the objectives and priorities of Stricks. Whille I love to Tinker and add "my touch" to MODing, it can never be at the cost of HP/TQ. And my comments earlier were with that in mind.

Your plan of going to an exhaust shop - do you have an idea of cost? Because you could purchase the OBX Catback for 299 delivered (appr) and you get all of the components you mention except for the 2.5 pipe. At the same time this system is a copy of SuperSprint so someone did their exhaust homework (i.e. it should not subtract power). I must footnote here that the OBX is loud so you could tinker with it by adding a resonator (thats what I'm doing) if you like to tinker. This system does require some tweaking during install.

My only concern is going to the muffler shop and not knowing the exhaust system contribution status (i.e. HP / TQ). Making it look like MILTEK - do you just want it to look like MILTEK or perform like MILTEK? If its looks then go for it - slap on whatever you like.

Things to also consider

If you like your 1-ball - fix it! Mine did not rattle and many here have it w/ no rattle.

Look for a used system that you like - For example I looked at a used Borla street (less than 1 year old) for $400. Pricing for used parts use the 50% rule as a guide.

save up for the right new system.

 

I wanted to order the parts to try this myself. I have a MIG welder and access to a tubing bender for the small bend at the end of the straight 2.5" run. Please excuse me for not being familiar with exhaust work....

Does anyone know for sure what the stock exhaust is made of? The guys at Meineke said it looks like stainless but they took a magnet to it and said it wasn't. I don't understand, wouldn't a magnet stick to stainless just as well as plain old steel?

Anyway, I just want to be clear on the parts. Are we talking about 2.5" Outer Diameter tubing? And what is the bend radius of the connecting pipe you used? 5" or so? If I need to order the mandrel-bent 90 degree section I want to make sure it has the largest diameter bend that will work well.

So, here is what I think I need. Please correct me if I am wrong.

5-7 feet of 2.5" Outer Diameter pipe. Requires slight bend at end.
90 degree mandrel bent connecting tube. Flared to 2.5" Inner Diameter at both ends.

Did you put the little jog in the middle of the straight section, or does it work to just run it straight?

Thanks!

Craig J. Lovold

 

Thanks for the reply. I wont be bother to change my exhaust if my ONEBALL does not rattles. I like the sound of the ONEBALL. My objectives are to have a decent exhaust sound;stock/oneball/milltek,cost saving and Power & Torque increase if possible. I dont really mind about the weight. So, strictly sound,cost and performance.

As for the MIlltek, I want the exhaust to perform like milltek(if possible) and the design is the simplest and easy for the exhaust shop to copy/fabricate. OBX catback is loud, Not my best interest.

Here is my plan: buy 2 Magnaflow mufflers(2.5" inlet and outlet), 2.5" pipe from CAT to Y, 1 3/4" size from Y to mufflers and exit. Does it make sense to weld 1 3/4" pipe to 2.5" muffler? Or better with 2.0" muffler?

 

There are magnetic stainless steels, but I have no clue if the Mini uses any.

The jog in the middle of the straight pipe makes clearences a lot easier to do. If you go straight, you may bump into the suppot plate near the middle of the car.

The bend at the back isn't exactly 90 degrees. It's got another verticle offset to it.

Buying some SS Us or Js and cutting them up is probably more expensive than buying the One-Ball part from the company (sorry, forget the name) that makes it.

Hope that helps, sorry it's not answers to all the questions.

Matt

 

An interesting post on Mini2 concerning the one-ball and such.
http://www.mini2.com/forum/engine-dr...g-results.html

 

I just got a 1-ball early this week along with an Alta 15%, colder plugs and an Alta CAI...

I had the exaust specialist keep the right-side muffler in place such that it still looks bone stock from behind, for a number of good reasons, especially lately in Southern California... So I guess for me the 1-ball is actually more of a 50% vasectomy than a 50% castration.

I also had him center the exaust tips, we both agreed MINI could have done a better job with them.

I like the sound, more sassy, but still not overpowering, I can still hear my stereo above it without turning the volume up too high.

Power, well with back pressure at 1.75 PSi instead of the stock 2.5 PSi it must do something good, breathing is better. But clearly with the 15% pulley, colder plugs and CAI added at the same time as the 1-ball I can't say anything definate about the power change from just the 1-ball by itself...

The specialist where the work was done (Steve at Steve's Auto Clinic) estimated a 25bhp increase at the wheels with all the work. I can believe that; I can both feel and hear the results with every shift.

 

So can anyone clear up the Hp/Tq for the one ball? Has anyone done a before and after dyno? Or does anyone have some educated guesses as too an increase if any?

Thanks

Mike

 

I do have to say, this really helps a lot. The angle of the pics is perfect. I'll take these to the auto shop when I get mine done, just so they done eff it up!

 

PS: Is very clean under there!

 

Muy Mini, this is completely off topic but i have to ask, is that shifter in your pic a Whalen pool ball shifter?

 

Does anyone have supplier information for SS exhaust tubing : straight and elbows?
John

 

anyone have a picture of the whole cat back? Or know what angles are needed to have a full cat back welded up? Also, does the header have a downpipe that connects it to the cat back (is the cat part of the header itself or in a seperate piece?

I'm thinking while he car is getting the welding done, might as well go as far back as the header.

Thanks

Tyer

 

Hi guys, Im new here, but Im really interested in the one-ball thing...

Yesterday I picked up a cooper s exhaust from the first dutch guy who mounted a turbo on his S...

Sadly... I dont own an S
But yes, I do want a little more noise from my One (90bhp version of the cooper only sold in europe, but chipped to 128bhp).

I decided that two exhausttips in the middle would be just to much wannebe-cooper-s... So the plan is to let the two tips exit on the right side.

Anyway, Im trying something different: Im keeping the resonator instead of the muffler... What sound will it make? I dont know... Do I care? No, cant wait to hear it!

Ill keep you guys updated!

 

VERY NICE. I would also like to know what resonator only sounds like.

 

Thats going to be loud I can't wait to hear clips!



On another note has anyone just gutted the resonator and sealed it back up? Shouldn't cost much for labor, or if doing it yourself cost would be next to nothing and should have a similar effect reducing back pressure and I imagine would significantly increase volume.

 

Bump for clips. Also how much time involved in this process I'm a one MINI person and like to keep it running as much as possible, can this be done in an afternoon? A day?

 

I did not read all the threads in the section so I am sorry if this is a repeat question.

Has anyone checked with Mini about this in regards to the warranty. I know in the diesel world the big three have the warranty out in "modifications to emissions". I read into that as being with the CAT and not mufflers..but I am not the "decider". Does anyone know if Mini would say the same thing and would waiting until after the warranty is up to do this mod?

Thanks
It looks like a great mod at a great price!!!!

1.75 over 3.75 for the JCW! WOW!!

 

When I did my 1-ball, my muffler man said it was stainless. Some stainless steels are magnetic and some are not. I know 400 and 300 series ss materials can go either way. However, if a magnet does not stick or sticks just slightly, compared to plain ol' mild steel tubing, then it's stainless for sure.
I replaced the 2.5" OD run from the cat back with mild steel. I'm cheap. Since most exhaust systems seem to rust in the back first, I'm sure that my $85 dollar-ish 1-ball system will last for many years to come before rusting out...

-Barry / 10 Ball

 

Shift **** is something I made up from a real pool ball. Drilled a pool ball, and inserted/epoxied-in a machined [machinist friend] aluminum sleeve. Two set screws secure it onto the shaft...
-Barry / 10 Ball

 

It is the property of the metal that makes the magnet stick. I do not think the exhaust itself is magnetized. It is the ferrous material of the steel that the magent is attracted to. With that being said I am sure that all steel, SS or not has ferrous material in it so every magnet should stick to it.

Maybe someone else can go further but this is my understanding.

 

Well I had the one-ball mod done this morning, it is the best $95 I have yet to spend on the mini. The power is stronger through 5K rpm; the slight hesitation from stop in 1st gear with the AC on is now gone completely . The power is very smooth in the whole band with no flat spots. Sound is just a bit louder with more noticeable burble when down shifting … a nice sound not harsh. I upsized the pipe from the cat to 2.5" while I was at it. I think it’s the only way to go for those who don’t have, or don’t want to spend $600 -$1,000 or even more for a custom catback exhaust. The job will be done as soon at the custom tip(s) I am making are finished. I want to thank Muy_Mini for the information in this thread and the address of the shop where his was done, a great Mom, Pop & son shop. I was going to do it myself by ordering the needed 90º tubing but it would have cost $125+shiping and would have not included the 2.5" run to the cat. Also, I would have had to do it all myself, and I am too old to be climbing under cars these days.

 

George / Sundown,

When you get a chance, post some photos of those tips...
Hope to cya around ABQ/NM some time...

-Barry / 10 Ball

 

Stainless steel is non-magnetic. The nickel and iron in the steel would normally be attracted to a magnet, but the presence of the chromium atoms in the alloy prevent the nickel and iron atoms from aligning in the required directions to allow them to be attracted to a magnet.

Likewise, even though rust is made up of nothing but iron and oxygen, it's not attracted to a magnet either. The oxygen atoms prevent the iron atoms from aligning correctly.

This is why magnets won't stick to stainless steel refrigerators or sinks (or exhaust systems).

Scott

 

I will be sure to do that, I plan on starting on it as soon as I get the seats on the bimmer recovered ... hopefully that will be by this weekend.