Helix FMIC Presale/Group Buy
#426
11-07-2011, 03:38 AM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Brisbane,Great Southern Land
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#427
11-09-2011, 06:48 AM
The install went well. Thank Helix for the video. However I ran into two things that were not covered:
- The torx screws behind the wheel arch, be careful not to pull the arch out too far. There is a hard plastic retainer that will snap if you do. Lightly does it.
- The plastic retainers on the underside of the bumper were "welded" together or something. They would not budge and had to be cut off.
As for performance...first startup was a little rough...computer didn't like it.
Disconnected the battery...restart...ran much better.
Crusing, outside temp of 79 deg, intake temp 83 deg, about 2 deg cooler than with the stock IC. Noticed no rise in temp with a couple of hard 1st thur 3rd runs. Alway have seen a rise before. Temps taken from a ScanGage II. Between the new IC and the NM boost tube the engine pulls better in 3rd now. With the stock IC the power seemed to die off once in 3rd. The idle is smoother now than before - is that possible
Say, did anyone else find oil inside there stock IC? I have ~ 30k on the car with about 10 track days... no catch can...maybe time to get one?
My opinion - well worth the money
- The torx screws behind the wheel arch, be careful not to pull the arch out too far. There is a hard plastic retainer that will snap if you do. Lightly does it.
- The plastic retainers on the underside of the bumper were "welded" together or something. They would not budge and had to be cut off.
As for performance...first startup was a little rough...computer didn't like it.
Disconnected the battery...restart...ran much better.
Crusing, outside temp of 79 deg, intake temp 83 deg, about 2 deg cooler than with the stock IC. Noticed no rise in temp with a couple of hard 1st thur 3rd runs. Alway have seen a rise before. Temps taken from a ScanGage II. Between the new IC and the NM boost tube the engine pulls better in 3rd now. With the stock IC the power seemed to die off once in 3rd. The idle is smoother now than before - is that possible
Say, did anyone else find oil inside there stock IC? I have ~ 30k on the car with about 10 track days... no catch can...maybe time to get one?
My opinion - well worth the money
Did you get an OCC? What kind did you get?
I have a 2011 MCS and am awaiting a Helix IC and am considering an OCC to add at the same time. Do you have photos of the OCC if you installed one? Any problems with an install of OCC?
Stephen
Last edited by SMOG; 11-09-2011 at 02:23 PM.
#428
11-09-2011, 11:59 AM
6th Gear
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Location: Fairfax, VA
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#429
11-09-2011, 12:09 PM
I know you asked for a PM but figured I'd just post here for the greater 2011 good.
There are actually 2 parts to the brake duct. One that connects to the bumper and one that connects to the wheel well lining. One of the 5 phillips screws you removed in the wheel well connects to the brake duct pipe.
The section that attaches to the wheel well lining just pops into the section connected to the bumper. When you have the lining pulled back you should be able to pull the 2 sections of the brake duct apart.
This will allow you to remove the bumper, without damaging the duct like i did :(.
However, it does make it a bit more of a pain to get back together.
Hope that helps
There are actually 2 parts to the brake duct. One that connects to the bumper and one that connects to the wheel well lining. One of the 5 phillips screws you removed in the wheel well connects to the brake duct pipe.
The section that attaches to the wheel well lining just pops into the section connected to the bumper. When you have the lining pulled back you should be able to pull the 2 sections of the brake duct apart.
This will allow you to remove the bumper, without damaging the duct like i did :(.
However, it does make it a bit more of a pain to get back together.
Hope that helps
#430
11-09-2011, 12:22 PM
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#431
11-09-2011, 12:28 PM
#432
11-09-2011, 12:29 PM
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#433
11-09-2011, 12:32 PM
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#434
11-09-2011, 12:34 PM
#435
11-09-2011, 05:47 PM
no, I never did get the OCC, but looked at them and thought that the BSH looked good. Did a quick search and you might want to look at this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...011-mcs-9.html
#436
11-09-2011, 05:54 PM
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#437
11-27-2011, 10:49 AM
I just installed it on my MCS 07 yesterday. Took me 6 hours, 3 hours just to figure our how to remove all the little nuts and bolts, 1 hour trying to remove the cold tube, another hour trying to take of the stock IC.
Taking off the wheel arches and unscrew the side screw was so difficult.
Overall it was very difficult to install, for someone with no mechanical experience. I did save a lot of money and learned a lot.
Just woke up, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and wait a hour or so to reset the ECU. Thats correct right?
Taking off the wheel arches and unscrew the side screw was so difficult.
Overall it was very difficult to install, for someone with no mechanical experience. I did save a lot of money and learned a lot.
Just woke up, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and wait a hour or so to reset the ECU. Thats correct right?
Last edited by Ch28Kid; 11-27-2011 at 10:59 AM.
#438
11-27-2011, 10:58 AM
Stephen,
no, I never did get the OCC, but looked at them and thought that the BSH looked good. Did a quick search and you might want to look at this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...011-mcs-9.html
no, I never did get the OCC, but looked at them and thought that the BSH looked good. Did a quick search and you might want to look at this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...011-mcs-9.html
Thanks for that Link
Rather long but it seem clear that the BSH OCC works on the N-18 so that will be waiting for the new IC to arrive and all will be installed at the same time, or before the IC arrives if I get bored waiting
Stephen
#439
11-27-2011, 11:00 AM
Stephen
#440
11-27-2011, 05:04 PM
The ECU will adjust timing based on the intake air temperature (IAT) and manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor while the engine is running, not from ECU power removal.
- Erik
#441
11-27-2011, 05:56 PM
@bluefox280 I don't understand too. I'm just read like a million threads on FMIC and everyone is doing it.
I just went for a test drive with Helix FMIC. The car pulls so much stronger on second and third gear. I have the dealer install JCW tuning kit and I feel like the FMIC was the missing piece in the puzzle. The car feels very different.
I just went for a test drive with Helix FMIC. The car pulls so much stronger on second and third gear. I have the dealer install JCW tuning kit and I feel like the FMIC was the missing piece in the puzzle. The car feels very different.
Last edited by Ch28Kid; 08-14-2016 at 01:02 AM.
#442
11-27-2011, 07:05 PM
I don't know what your reasons are to "reset" the ECU, but for a engine mechanical part installation it's not needed / required.
The ECU will adjust timing based on the intake air temperature (IAT) and manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor while the engine is running, not from ECU power removal.
- Erik
The ECU will adjust timing based on the intake air temperature (IAT) and manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor while the engine is running, not from ECU power removal.
- Erik
#444
11-27-2011, 07:25 PM
Look at post 18
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...vibration.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...vibration.html
#446
01-12-2012, 04:23 PM
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I like this one as it really shows the strengths of the larger intercooler. I'm holding about 17 PSI of boost for 6 seconds and during that time the IAT's are a steady 2 ℉ above ambient. When I let off IAT's only go up to about 4 ℉ above ambient. You guys on this latest group buy are going to love it.
#448
04-30-2012, 11:46 AM
