I did a quick search and found a number of threads explaining how to get 4 jack stands under the car, but I'm not getting it... I understand from experience that I can get 2 stands under one side just by using the front jack point on that side, but then what? Just go over to the other side and use the front jack point there? It seems like that would be a bit unstable... Others talk about raising the front first via the circular support behind the engine, but that seems like the same triangular problem once they are up on the stands. Is there a singular point to use in the back to raise the entire back end?

So can someone walk me through how one person with one floor jack gets their MINI on 4 jack stands? Preferrably with pictures with arrows and diagrams...

Thanks.

 

Everyone seems to point to this site. But for me it doesn't help much.
http://www.ultimategarage.com/minijack.htm

 

That site doesn't help much in my opinion. I tried jacking the car up at the sub-frame point indicated just inside and in front of the jack point, and it crushed in! Having seen Randy Webb jack up dozens of cars at pulley parties here's the trick: put a piece of 2x4 under the plastic covered weld seam between the two jack points, just a little toward the front of center. Raise the car and both wheels will lift about the same. Put jack stands under the jack points and lower the jack. Do the same on the other side, and bingo, a car level and high off the ground. There's a photo of mine in such a condition here:

cheers,
phil

 

Nice photo. I can't tell if your jack stands have the U-shaped tops like my "axle stands" (relics of an earlier project car). Is it OK to use these or will I poke holes in the bottom of the car? It'd be nice to have some of those flat-top ones shown in the first photo, but I'd like to be able to use what I have if possible.

Thanks.

 

Yes, my stands are Harbor Freight cheapies with U tops. I stick one side of the U into the stock jack point--it mates to the bolt (if you look closely in the photo you can see half of the U forward of each jack point). I tried running them at 90deg to the car and it fell off when jacking the other side! Didn't cause any serious damage fortunately, but scary nonetheless. You have to have the jack stand inside the jack points for good grip. Jacking the car up is scary because the entire side raises and you have to get it nearly a foot off the ground to get the stands in under the jack points! Only use a race jack--with wheels-- as the jack has to move at least 3" during the jacking process. Fixed jacks will fall over, and cause other damage possibly.

phil

 

gandini, I'm glad you didn't hurt anything when it fell off the jack. The first time I tried jacking our MINI up, I saw the car start sliding off the stand . I promptly put it down before it had the chance to fall off. Now, I usually jack each side up enough to put a couple 2x4's under the front wheels. Then go back and jack it up enough to fit stands under the jacking points. It takes a bit of time but it's safe.

 

Would you mind showing some pictures of the points you mentioned? I'm like the original poster, I'd love some more specific info. I've sat with the car up on a jack, wondering how to get the whole thing up and totally scared of dropping it. I always give up. I've tried the site posted, but I don't have a huge jack like that.

Thanks!

mb

 

I have a 1/4 " plate that is 12" x 6" it has a slight kink the full length about an inch in.
Be a bit careful with a flat plate or 2x4 as the underside is slightly at an angle.
Put the plate or 2x4 close up behind the front jack pad, jack up as close to the backside of the front jack pad as possable with room to put the jackstand in place.

 

You're kidding me right? I can barely get the jack under my Mini without having to drive her UP on a 2x4

 

1/4 " plate works and I am 1+ inch low.

I couldn't get a 2x4 under mine ... Maybe stock

 

It depends on what jack you have. If your like me and have a generic $20-30 jack, it doesn't work. I can't even do it with a 1x4. Those with a low profile Craftsman or Harbor Freight jack might be able to get a 2x4 under just fine.

I've never tried jacking the MINI up from right behind the jack points. I didn't know what was behind that plastic. I've always jacked up from the inner frame rail (where Randy's how-to puts the jack stands). Haven't had any trouble yet...

 

Walmart used to carry a $15 jack that used a safety pin device so the arm could not fall even if the hydraulics failed--allowing it to double as a jack stand. Appeared far more sturdy and stable than the cheap tube-type jackstands with the pins, but I guess four jacks would take up a lot of room under the car.

 

I'll get more photos of the jack and 2x4--but trust me, my car is lowered and the racing jack with 2x4 (1.5" height) fits under the side weld seam just fine. Racing jacks have very low front rollers for the very reason that they need to get under pretty low cars. However, you don't need a 2x4, you just need something to spread the load over a larger area of the weld seam when you lift half the weight of the car (or there abouts.)
phil

 

Your right. I use two 2x6 about 18" long. Cut 45 degree angle on front side of each for easier ramp effect when driving front wheels onto the 2x6's. After fronts are on the 2x6 boards, you can get the jack with the 2x4 under the center of the car.

 

I made these for the top of my curved jackstands.....they fit into the jackpoints on the undercarriage of the MINI....Les

 

got a similar prob - ie tried doing how randy's dy shows.. but the thing just crushes in????? wtf??? help??????!!

one more thing.. if ur just jacking the rear of the car up using the jack points - is this ok for the rear sway bar?? will this make it bend or anything?

 

Looks like a nice set-up. Any concerns with lower wood block splitting where the curved portion of the jack stand is inserted into the wood block?

 

So far so good.....Les

 

HA HA HA........You did the same thing I did. Even with Harbor Freight stuff! HA HA.......Good times. I just messed my right skirt a little. Not noticeable unless you look from under the car. I was like, how am I going to get the car off the stand?

 

I jacked from that same point (I think) and my right side crushed in a little since I didn't have the pad adjusted perfectly. The left is slight.:impatient

 

Very good advise.-- I would add that if you want the jack stands taller than the lowest setting to also raise a little at a time from side to side.
Most important, make sure the jack is on a surface that it can roll easy so as not to push the car off the jack stands. Oh... and it is a good idea to grab the car by a bumper & push to see if car seems stable before crawling underneath.
I usually leave the jack under the car in an area close to where I am in the up possition just in case the car did fall.

 

Hi Phil,

I'm looking to get all 4 wheels off simultaneously like you did to paint my calipers. I followed your directions, using a long 2x4 along the weld seam running fron to back, but the board kept collapsing in on me. That weld seam is only about 1'8" thick (having a plastic cover on it, so I'm wondering how the board could ever be perfectly centered enough on it so that it doesn't kick out. Am I missing something here? Also, I've been using the standard mini jack. Would a proper shop jack help (though I would think the balancing issue (board on thin seam) would still be a concern?

Thanks... Jon

 

Here is a pictoral link describing Jacking up a Mini Cooper that may help.

 

That link to BlimeyCabrio's photos is great, buzzsaw! To jojo: as you'll see in the linked photos, the secret is the racing jack--it has rollers that allow it to move as the car lifts. Because the Mini is so small, but you have to lift it almost a foot to get the jacks under it, the jack point (where you are lifing it from ) moves quite a lot--and the stock jack, and any other stationary jack will fail, just as you experienced. Harbor Freight race jacks are good enough, trust me. Yes, you can get better and pay more, but I got 2 of them for the price of an equivalent Sears/Craftsman, and they are working just fine after 3 years and a heck of a lot of lifts.

good luck,
PHil

PS, I now only use a very small piece of wood--not long like in the photos. About 6" of hard maple works fine.

 

yah, you dont need to use that board if you have a flat platform hydraulic.

been lifting my car with no issue the last 6yrs. randy himself did not use
a board when he used my car to do the show and tell to install the pulley
like 4yrs ago.