Street Class Autocross Tires/ Wheels 2011 JCW Suggestions
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Street Class Autocross Tires/ Wheels 2011 JCW Suggestions
2011 JCW.
Having trouble figuring out what Tires to run
Probably running the stock 17 inch rims for now.
Street Class 200 Treadwear.
running 225 45 17 now
internet says 205 45 17
I had a bad experience modifying my mustang when i races last... Dont want to show up with wrong size for class but be competitive.
What size / brand?
If I get dedicated rims, should I stick with 17 or go 18?
Anyone ever been competitive with a 2011 JCW?
Thanks in Advance!
Having trouble figuring out what Tires to run
Probably running the stock 17 inch rims for now.
Street Class 200 Treadwear.
running 225 45 17 now
internet says 205 45 17
I had a bad experience modifying my mustang when i races last... Dont want to show up with wrong size for class but be competitive.
What size / brand?
If I get dedicated rims, should I stick with 17 or go 18?
Anyone ever been competitive with a 2011 JCW?
Thanks in Advance!
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 230
From: York, Pennsylvania
I haven’t competed in many years, but ...
Bridgestone RE71R in 205/45/R17 or 215/45R17 (providing change in size from oem allowed).
would be a great streetable 200 tread wear rating tire for ATX.
17 rather than 18.
Bridgestone RE71R in 205/45/R17 or 215/45R17 (providing change in size from oem allowed).
would be a great streetable 200 tread wear rating tire for ATX.
17 rather than 18.
I believe the SCCA web page has the rule book, you should look there for the wheel and tire rules to be sure.
You want to find the lightest wheels you can find, like the 15 lbs Enkie PFO1, this will help greatly with acceleration and handling. You have to stick with the stock wheel width (you may be allowed a +1/2” on wheel width, but I am not sure). You are allowed +1/4” more wheel offset. Stock is 47mm, so you can use the 45mm offset wheels Enkie and others sell. 18” wheels won’t get you anything except added weight, so that is a no. The 225x45 are quite a bit taller than the stock size, and you are loosing torque as a result (slowing you down, that is). The stock wheels are only 7” wide, that is close to pinching those 225 width tires and you are likely not able to take full advantage of them because you can’t add significant camber and you are likely rolling the tire over on its sidewall. The stock 205x45 or the 215x45 are good choices for the MINI. You can can get a 40 series in some of the brands in those sizes. But without added camber the 40 series tire might not gain you anything.
The Bridgestone RE71R is the tire to beat. Check out the Tire Rack tire test to see.
Have you pulled the little white pin on the top of the strut towers and moved the top of the struts inboard the amount the adjustment slots allow? This will add about -0.3 to your camber and it is allowed.
Hope that helps a bit.
You want to find the lightest wheels you can find, like the 15 lbs Enkie PFO1, this will help greatly with acceleration and handling. You have to stick with the stock wheel width (you may be allowed a +1/2” on wheel width, but I am not sure). You are allowed +1/4” more wheel offset. Stock is 47mm, so you can use the 45mm offset wheels Enkie and others sell. 18” wheels won’t get you anything except added weight, so that is a no. The 225x45 are quite a bit taller than the stock size, and you are loosing torque as a result (slowing you down, that is). The stock wheels are only 7” wide, that is close to pinching those 225 width tires and you are likely not able to take full advantage of them because you can’t add significant camber and you are likely rolling the tire over on its sidewall. The stock 205x45 or the 215x45 are good choices for the MINI. You can can get a 40 series in some of the brands in those sizes. But without added camber the 40 series tire might not gain you anything.
The Bridgestone RE71R is the tire to beat. Check out the Tire Rack tire test to see.
Have you pulled the little white pin on the top of the strut towers and moved the top of the struts inboard the amount the adjustment slots allow? This will add about -0.3 to your camber and it is allowed.
Hope that helps a bit.
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 795
Likes: 122
From: SoCal
Go to a race at the location that you plan on racing at. See what others are running..!
Asking people here, what THEY run at the tracks that THEY go to, will...get you nowhere.
If you've done any reading here, you might see that most folks run 16" or even 15" "wheels" (need more than just the rim..!) to lighten the rotating mass. Rubber weighs less than aluminum. Acceleration, braking and turning are all effected to the positive by lighter weight.
As far as tires...every track is different..! Again, go to to a race, see what others are running at THAT track.
Mike
Asking people here, what THEY run at the tracks that THEY go to, will...get you nowhere.
If you've done any reading here, you might see that most folks run 16" or even 15" "wheels" (need more than just the rim..!) to lighten the rotating mass. Rubber weighs less than aluminum. Acceleration, braking and turning are all effected to the positive by lighter weight.
As far as tires...every track is different..! Again, go to to a race, see what others are running at THAT track.
Mike
Go to a race at the location that you plan on racing at. See what others are running..!
Asking people here, what THEY run at the tracks that THEY go to, will...get you nowhere.
If you've done any reading here, you might see that most folks run 16" or even 15" "wheels" (need more than just the rim..!) to lighten the rotating mass. Rubber weighs less than aluminum. Acceleration, braking and turning are all effected to the positive by lighter weight.
As far as tires...every track is different..! Again, go to to a race, see what others are running at THAT track.
Mike
Asking people here, what THEY run at the tracks that THEY go to, will...get you nowhere.
If you've done any reading here, you might see that most folks run 16" or even 15" "wheels" (need more than just the rim..!) to lighten the rotating mass. Rubber weighs less than aluminum. Acceleration, braking and turning are all effected to the positive by lighter weight.
As far as tires...every track is different..! Again, go to to a race, see what others are running at THAT track.
Mike
OVERDRIVE - Racing Champion
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 15,262
Likes: 72
From: Mililani, Hawaii
2011 JCW.
Having trouble figuring out what Tires to run
Probably running the stock 17 inch rims for now.
Street Class 200 Treadwear.
running 225 45 17 now
internet says 205 45 17
I had a bad experience modifying my mustang when i races last... Dont want to show up with wrong size for class but be competitive.
What size / brand?
If I get dedicated rims, should I stick with 17 or go 18?
Anyone ever been competitive with a 2011 JCW?
Thanks in Advance!
Having trouble figuring out what Tires to run
Probably running the stock 17 inch rims for now.
Street Class 200 Treadwear.
running 225 45 17 now
internet says 205 45 17
I had a bad experience modifying my mustang when i races last... Dont want to show up with wrong size for class but be competitive.
What size / brand?
If I get dedicated rims, should I stick with 17 or go 18?
Anyone ever been competitive with a 2011 JCW?
Thanks in Advance!
Which 225/45-17 tire do you use now? Who recommended that?
Are you in D Street class?
You can run any tire size that fits the OEM wheel and doesn't rub for Street classes in SCCA
At local events there can be a wide variety of tires that are usable depending on budgets and course surfaces. Look at tirerack reviews and tire tests for Extreme Summer tire class, Bridgestone RE71R sets the standard but there are some alternatives based on tire sizes and budgets. Just because someone is using a tire doesn't always add up to whether it is a good choice for you.
Larger diameter wheels look nice but aren't always the best choice for autocross where you want the lightest wheel that fits the widest tire size that still fits without rubbing and is within budget. Typically whatever is the smallest wheel that fits over the brake calipers is the first place to start, JCW brakes can be big so that could mean 17" wheels but check around. Read the rules on limits of wheel sizes besides OEM. No reason to move from 17x7 unless you can't find good tires. 215/45-17 is not a bad choice but smaller tire diameters will give you the equivalent of lowered gearing which is good for tight turns and lower speeds. If you have very high speed courses then 215/45-17 is OK.
On being competitive, at the local level it depends on who else is in the same class. Look at the past results and note the number of drivers and where they match up in Pax times overall vs everyone else. Are there any national class drivers in your class? If so then try to learn from that person, if not then see if there are drivers at the event with national level experience and top 10 overall performances.
When you start at autocross most of what makes a difference is your driving skill so work on that the most, get instruction and talk to experienced drivers. Tires are the most important choice but don't get too hung up on the other stuff.
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Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 442
Likes: 38
From: NCAL
*16's dont fit over gen2 JCW brakes (99% sure)
*a 17x7 the widest you would want to run is a 215.. anymore and you will be rolling sidewalls as mentioned, it will reduce your steering feel and the roll will scrub speed in the corners
*a 17x8 will allow up to a 235.. this will heavier though, so weigh your needs for more traction carefully
17x7 = 215/45/17 will be the widest choice with the least weight and not require any spacers or fender mods
*a 17x7 the widest you would want to run is a 215.. anymore and you will be rolling sidewalls as mentioned, it will reduce your steering feel and the roll will scrub speed in the corners
*a 17x8 will allow up to a 235.. this will heavier though, so weigh your needs for more traction carefully
17x7 = 215/45/17 will be the widest choice with the least weight and not require any spacers or fender mods
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