I am putting new pads and rotors on my 2006 Mini. Got the new rotors on and trying to get the rear caliper cylinder to retract.

I am using a brake tool that has the two tabs that fit into the cylinder and rotating clockwise, but it is very tough going. Seems I can get it to rotate, but then hit a brick wall. Pads were worn down to nearly the backing so I have to move the cylinder back a lot to get the caliper and cylinder to fit over the pads.

I have done many VW's and Audi's and the rear cylinder is like on the Mini where you have to push and rotate.

Just don't know why this one is so difficult.

Thanks

 

Did you remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir up front? That removes some of the pressure when you are twisting the rear cylinder in. I used the loaner tool kit from the local parts store and have done several rear brake jobs for myself, my son's and a few other club members. It should start moving and get a little easier as you go. Hope this helps.

 

Sometimes the rears can lock up/seize up (internal corrosion from lack of bleeding?)...folks have iffy luck with rebuilt units...
One tip...have you tried to open the bleeder as you try to push it in?
The harbor freight tool does have the small disc needed to work the tool...most "loaner" ones do not....

 

Yeah, the new harbor freight tool, with a clockwise and a counter clockwise unit is really nice. Is it one side, or both doing it? If it's both, it might be the tool. Before I had the HF, it was really tough to get the cylinder retracted, with it, it's a piece of cake.

 

Got it done.

I have done many brakes on VW's and Audi's and I have my own brake retraction kit since VW rears are sort of the same as on a Mini.

The left rear went fine. It was the right rear that got to the point that it would not budge. This morning I tried again and that is when I posted. I went back out and put the 16" channel locks on the handle of the brake tool. I could then just budge, but slowly it eased up and turned. My guess, bad corrosion.

I have a manual vacuum tool for doing brake work and sucked a little out of the reservoir in engine bay. After putting new pads on and pressing pedal to settle them in, brake fluid is again just in the bottom of the screen.

This was the hardest $250 I saved in a long time versus a local shop.

 

i had the same issue.... had to gorilla it for to start moving... and had a friend help me out while i turn the pistol tool...

but my car has been sitting for 3 years