Matt,
as for your first comment, Btwyx regularly tracks his JCW with the JCW sport brakes with no issues other than getting the right pad. He has a great thread going about his track adventures. I think you will be fine with the right pads.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...the-track.html

as for doing the upgrade, I understand from my SA that it is a computer reflash. I doubt it is something that I could do or have an independent shop do. I think, overall, I would be better off with installing a Quaife LSD.

BTW - why not run your car on the track before the warranty is up? It doesn't void it if you do. And you can buy track specific insurance, which is what I do.

 

Nice. I saw that another person swapped in beefier pistons as well, so it seems like a non-issue if done properly.

Aah, that's too bad. A real LSD would certainly be a bigger advantage than an eLSD anyways. Well, the eLSD that we get at any rate.

My experience with my MINI's warranty has been really poor thus far and don't want to jeopardize my chances by doing anything that could potentially be flagged as "abuse". I'm not sure if it's my dealership, or MINI policies, but they seem to be completely incapable of identifying issues unless they can be scanned by a computer or are so obvious that they clearly pose a safety issue. I've had a lingering issue with vibration when making right-hand turns since day one, and have had one wheel bearing replaced as a result of it so far. Unfortunately, it took 3 trips to get it replaced and the issue quickly developed again after they replaced. The wheel bearing was clearly a side effect of the issue and not the cause, and I've already been through one "we don't see anything wrong" trip so far. It's clearly a bad CV, which I don't care to pay out-of-pocket to have fixed, but hasn't destroyed the replacement wheel bearing badly enough yet for them to notice it (in spite of it being obvious enough that even passengers can detect it). If it's not properly fixed by the time the warranty is up, and they keep taking the cheap route and replacing bearings, I'll properly fix it and be in good shape for tracking. Until then, it's safety town for me.

--Matt

 

My combo, Enkei RPF1 7x16ET35, with Brembo GT kit modified on 296x28mm rotors (11.65x1.10"), no spacers. My Team Dynamics ProRace2 7x15ET35 also fit fine, no spacers needed.

 

I made some 2pc hat/rotor replacements for those for someone locally last year. Have to dig up the notes again but available if you ever want to go that way.

 

Pm coming

 

R56 JCW big brake kit, 17" OZ Ultraleggera wheels, on my 2004 R53. Had to get some custom stainless steel brake lines to get everything to fit.


Put on a few months ago, really loving it.

 

Matt, you have no idea how stoked I was to see that pic! Bridgespokes are my winter wheels. Should have them ordered from Todd tomorrow. Finally heading out to the garage to be positive they fit under my 17" Enkei's...

 

Did I hear correctly that a JCW BBK will never work with OEM 16" wheels?

 

My Bridgespokes weren't even close to fitting over my JCW brakes, spaced or not.

--Matt

 

The Wilwood 12.2 set up is on it's way! Has anyone been able to use the OEM brake lines? I see now that Wilwood recommends their set of braided lines...

Edit: never mind. Todd at TCE took very good care of me.

 

The Wilwood 12.2 kit fits with 17" Enkei Imola's.

 

My bbk finished and beded in.. Ferodo Premier pads suck, they squael like crazy..

 

This thread has a lot of useful info.

I'm looking at Wilwood calipers for my 07 MCS and am a little confused about running with and without dust seals. I see caliper sets that come with better higher quality rotors (GT slotted and spec 37 iron alloy) and stainless steel pistons with no rubber seals, the calipers with the rubber seals seem to come with lower quality rotors.

Pro's & cons to running SS pistons with no seals?

 

The SS pistons and no seals setup is intended for track use. These need to be cleaned around the pistons periodically, which is not too hard to do. But it is effort. However, if you are not tracking the car, there is no reason to go with that setup. I would go with the set with the seals in that case. Hopefully you are looking at the TCE site for your brakes; Todd is great to work with.

 

Yes been in contact with Todd, I have decided to go with the DynaPro 4-piston caliper with seals and the GT Slotted Spec 37 iron alloy 12.2" rotors. I hear that the BP10 pads are a great pad with very little dust compared to OEM pads. What do you guys do with the brake sensors since they aren't compatible with the Wilwood pads? I never needed sensors in any of my cars to notice whether it's time to change the pads, way back then the pads had a wire of some sort that was meant to get your attention to check your pads thickness, it was an analog alarm.

If ignored the next warning would be metal to metal braking, now that would get your attention!

 

I run the BP20s on the street and really like them. They are relatively non-dusty. As good as they are I would think the BP10s will be fine.

Zip ties are great for a lot of things including tying off the sensor. Just make sure that the end is behind the wheel well liner and out of any aggressive air movement. I had one where the end wiggled in the air around the tire which broke the wire and gave me a red warning with no indication of what it was a warning for. I didn't know if the car was drivable. Freaked me out as I was on a trip at the time. Took me a while to figure it out.

 

Can't I just cut the sensor cable and hide it? I can separate the two wires so they don't make contact.

 

I think you can but you need to twist the bare wires together. I just tyed them off so I didn't worry about it. But you might want to do a search to make sure.

 

I could cut the sensor wire real short and then crimp the wiring for the clip part. I just realized that I'll be removing some serious weight, how much to the stock calipers and rotors weigh? I have the 11.75" rotors, I figure I'll be removing at least 15 pounds per wheel.

 

Does the SS pistons keep the calipers cooler than with the aluminum pistons? If I were to go SS pistons how often do I need to clean them? I think I might very well track my Mini, it sounds like something I would enjoy.

 

SS pistons isolate brake fluid from heat far better than aluminium pistons. The reasons are: thermal conductivity of SS is aproximately 5 times lower and because of strength SS pistons are made with thinner walls. Thinner walls mean smaller heat conductor section and further reduction of heat transfer into brake fluid.

 

Quick question for you guys. I read this thread, but can't seem to get an answer.

I understand the JCW BBK usually fits 17 inch and above rims. I also saw some fitting 16 inch rims. Is this because of the diameter of the rim or the offset?

I have BBS RX 16x7 offset 42 with 5 mm spacers giving the end offset of 37mm. Would this be able to clear the JCW BBK?

Thanks!

 

Radial clearance for the caliper is one of the big issues. I don't have an answer on the exact wheel set up. Spacers help with caliper extension, but not the diameter of the barrel of the wheel clearance to the top edge of the caliper. I'll try and dig up an answer on the RX wheel.

 

I apologize, but we no longer have the RX scans to make the compairison for you.

 

17x8 ET38 Team Dynamics PR1.2s fit over the stoptech ST40 trophy kit with no spacers. Plenty of space, limit is the clearance to the shock with means a higher offset won't work a lower would work at stock height or with flares.