Solid vs Cross drilled vs Slotted
I have read the water dispersal thing several times. PCCBs are definitely better because of 1/2 the weight and no fade in street use. Yes, your correct the no fade thing on the steel brakes have nothing to do with cross drilling and should not be part of the discussion.
I looked up the 24 hours racing rules for the Ring and Lemans and there is nothing about brakes. Some claim the carbon brakes are better because of the high temperatures. You can see the rotors glowing at night. No or little fade, ligher unsprung weight and deeper braking into the corners means faster cars.
Why do the high end cars have them? I have repeatedly read bad for the track, fine for the street and will ask around. PCCBs are clearly better but not a direct issue of cross drilling even through the street versions are cross drilled
BTW, the "nav" is not mandatory but actually an option (except on the TT). The screen your referring to is the PCM where all kinds of computer or radio info is displayed. Nav is a module you can buy just as a cell phone BT is a module you can buy using the same screen.
Back to JCW drilled/slotted discs, since its directly from factory and will be covered under their warranty (as long as you still have the maintenace plan, the one that also cover brake), this shouldn't be a problem, Am I correct?. If in case that we only do autox couple of times a year, road track once a year, some spirited driving every now and then and want to have another bling on your car.
So if we're not going too extreme, these JCW rotors should work just fine, right?
One thing that's surprised me, you've mentioned that you did not feel any different from JCW brake upgrade on R53, since the rotor is slightly larger and brake pads are supposed to be better.
So if we're not going too extreme, these JCW rotors should work just fine, right?One thing that's surprised me, you've mentioned that you did not feel any different from JCW brake upgrade on R53, since the rotor is slightly larger and brake pads are supposed to be better.

No, did not feel the JCW brakes did much of anything other than be bling. Silly me had to have a "full JCW car". In the end it was just money thrown away. I did not feel anything different and if you read the discussions on MINI2 about the brakes, you will see the complaints that the are only marginally larger and just slightly bigger pads, Still single piston calipers.
Last edited by chows4us; Aug 17, 2007 at 06:00 PM.
I looked up the 24 hours racing rules for the Ring and Lemans and there is nothing about brakes. Some claim the carbon brakes are better because of the high temperatures. You can see the rotors glowing at night. No or little fade, ligher unsprung weight and deeper braking into the corners means faster cars.
I just did a quick search of the relevent PDFs.
You may have read old rule sets but 2007 ACO Le Mans GT2 regulations REQUIRE ferrous brake discs (article 12, section 3, paragrah 2), obviously eliminating any carbon or ceramic items.
IMSA rules (applicable in ALMS, which is important for many teams running at Le Mans) state discs are to be ferrous, but can be ceramic with special approval which must be applied for by the manufacturer.
Thanks for the detailed and lively discussion.
One would hope that high priced exotic cars with hefty brakes actually perform as good as they look.
Naturally the tendency would be for non exotic cars to copy that with moderately to well priced brake upgrade kits that resemble those found on the exotics.
You can get the look without the high prices of initial cost or the maintenance. I hate to hear how much replacing the pads and rotors are for a Porsche. I know my crossdrilled MINI sized rotors were cheap and I replaced them without much delay once I found the cracks.
Did I need to replace the rotors due to the cracks? Probably not, but a small crack could become a big crack in a hurry and without much warning and on the track or at a driving event might as well be as safe as possible. If I was only using them for the street I could nurse them along and keep the heat down. I seldom go through brake pads for the four years I've had my MINI.
I agree that for the JCW brakes the pads and rotors are wear items and would likely not be covered under warranty if they wear at a fairly normal rate but it it wore much too quickly or unevenly then that might be different. You'd have to work with your dealership.
Certainly alot has been written. It's hard to be certain what would apply directly for the MINI since we can't put that same technology (porsche brakes) on our cars. There is hype and then there is reality.
There is normal use (street driving) and there is high speed closed track driving.
No brake fade after 25 hard stops? Great stuff, can't say that I've ever done that in my MINI even in lapping sessions. I might have done as much as 14 hard stops (hairpin turn) on a short track less than one mile long during a 15 minute session and I wasn't getting any brake fade that I could detect.
One would hope that high priced exotic cars with hefty brakes actually perform as good as they look.
Naturally the tendency would be for non exotic cars to copy that with moderately to well priced brake upgrade kits that resemble those found on the exotics.
You can get the look without the high prices of initial cost or the maintenance. I hate to hear how much replacing the pads and rotors are for a Porsche. I know my crossdrilled MINI sized rotors were cheap and I replaced them without much delay once I found the cracks.
Did I need to replace the rotors due to the cracks? Probably not, but a small crack could become a big crack in a hurry and without much warning and on the track or at a driving event might as well be as safe as possible. If I was only using them for the street I could nurse them along and keep the heat down. I seldom go through brake pads for the four years I've had my MINI.
I agree that for the JCW brakes the pads and rotors are wear items and would likely not be covered under warranty if they wear at a fairly normal rate but it it wore much too quickly or unevenly then that might be different. You'd have to work with your dealership.
Certainly alot has been written. It's hard to be certain what would apply directly for the MINI since we can't put that same technology (porsche brakes) on our cars. There is hype and then there is reality.
There is normal use (street driving) and there is high speed closed track driving.
No brake fade after 25 hard stops? Great stuff, can't say that I've ever done that in my MINI even in lapping sessions. I might have done as much as 14 hard stops (hairpin turn) on a short track less than one mile long during a 15 minute session and I wasn't getting any brake fade that I could detect.
I like the look of a cross drilled rotor on a car as much as the next person. Very sexy and mean looking. In fact I run them on my race car- to further reduce weight.
On the flip side however I'd certainly not suggest this process to those who are considering much track use. The potential for damage and ultimately failure it too great unless you're willing to accept the wear rate and plan to replace them often.
**As a side note the bounty is up to $400 for anyone who can find proof solid of any form of cast in hole iron rotors. Four years and running and nobody has shown this elusive product.
On the flip side however I'd certainly not suggest this process to those who are considering much track use. The potential for damage and ultimately failure it too great unless you're willing to accept the wear rate and plan to replace them often.
**As a side note the bounty is up to $400 for anyone who can find proof solid of any form of cast in hole iron rotors. Four years and running and nobody has shown this elusive product.
... There was a thread on another high performance car board where (I believe, it's been awhile since I read it) a metal engineer offered a cash reward for someone to prove this point to him, and no one could without a doubt prove the cast in claim made for Porsche's rotors. Please, I'd like to be proven wrong on this, but I can't find conclusive evidence that they are cast.
I am going to assume that the first reference from m44 and todds are identical ... TCE offers $400 bounty or close to it. I agree with your question. Very often people just repeat what they heard on the internet w/out definitive proof. Urban legends are rampant. You have an excellent question. Are they truely totally cast or drilled? I have no idea nor have the technical expertise to provide an informed opinion, so I have none on the possibility if it could exist or were economically feasible.
I would imagine that no one would ever collect the $400 because the company's under contract would probably not take a picture for the public domain of a proprietary process. I would also guess the quest to find definitive proof does not mean its not true. I see it no different than finding Coca Cola's secret formula. Just because there may be no pictures of Coke's process for mixing the ingredients does not mean they do not exist.
IMO "cross drilled" is probably bling but Maxis original question is "why on the high performance cars?". I'm still guessing water dispersal and can probably find references in Porsche literature for that as a reason.
Last edited by chows4us; Aug 18, 2007 at 06:05 AM.
Calipers

No brake fade after 25 hard stops?
It's more than just "hard stops". It would be take your MINI from 62 kph (60 mph) up to top speed, I assume about 140 MPH accelerating as fast as you can and then stop back to 60 mph as hard as you can ... Repeat 25 times in a row.
Last edited by chows4us; Aug 18, 2007 at 06:50 AM.
http://www.gtt.uk.com/brakes.asp
Calipers
No brake fade after 25 hard stops?
It's more than just "hard stops". It would be take your MINI from 62 kph (60 mph) up to top speed, I assume about 140 MPH accelerating as fast as you can and then stop back to 60 mph as hard as you can ... Repeat 25 times in a row.
Calipers

No brake fade after 25 hard stops?
It's more than just "hard stops". It would be take your MINI from 62 kph (60 mph) up to top speed, I assume about 140 MPH accelerating as fast as you can and then stop back to 60 mph as hard as you can ... Repeat 25 times in a row.
I would imagine that no one would ever collect the $400 because the company's under contract would probably not take a picture for the public domain of a proprietary process. I would also guess the quest to find definitive proof does not mean its not true. I see it no different than finding Coca Cola's secret formula. Just because there may be no pictures of Coke's process for mixing the ingredients does not mean they do not exist.
Now, back to the water evacuation. I've been looking into this and found only very general statements about it. Is there any in depth analysis I can check into on that? I'm not disputing it, it seems to make sense to me, but I'm just interested to hear the actual physics behind it all. For example, since brakes are rotating, I wonder why slots don't do a similar, if not better job at clearing water. The other question is, if it's all about contact between caliper and disk, similar to a tire and road, if it were possible would a swiss cheese looking tire perform better in the wet then a traditional wet weather tire (which to me seems analogous to slotted rotors). I know, I know, how do you inflate a tire with holes in it? Beats me, I'm just curious.
Yes they do. They refer to it as "Formula X". Big stink on May 1, 2006 when somebody offered it for sale to Pepsi.
PFYC
"One of the biggest misconceptions with drilled rotors is the Porsche OE rotor. If Porsche can have a drilled rotor why can't I? Actually factory Porsche rotors are not drilled at all, they have their holes cast into the structure of the rotor at the casting stage. The holes then become part of the molecular structure and not an after thought when the rotor is finished."
Upgrading Porsche Brakes
"The stock Porsche 930 rotor has cast-in holes, which are superior to drilled rotors ..."
I have read several references that the holes are not fully cast but finished with a drill.
Now, back to the water evacuation. I've been looking into this and found only very general statements about it. Is there any in depth analysis I can check into on that? I'm not disputing it, it seems to make sense to me, but I'm just interested to hear the actual physics behind it all. For example, since brakes are rotating, I wonder why slots don't do a similar, if not better job at clearing water.
Some non-forum quotes:
European cars
"... wet-weather performance is enhanced by cross-drilled discs, which enable rapid dispersal of the water vapor generated at the initiation of braking"
Porsche
"... cross-drilled discs for optimum braking in the wet. The distinctive drill-hole pattern enables faster response by allowing rapid dispersal of the water vapour generated under braking. All four discs are also internally vented for better heat dispersal."
Time after time, they all say the same thing.
The other question is, if it's all about contact between caliper and disk, similar to a tire and road, if it were possible would a swiss cheese looking tire perform better in the wet then a traditional wet weather tire (which to me seems analogous to slotted rotors). I know, I know, how do you inflate a tire with holes in it? Beats me, I'm just curious.
I think we are getting WAY beyond maxi's intention here which was WHY do the high end cars use cross-drilled brake and the cast-in thing has nothing to do with the original question.
IMO the water dispersal thing is reasonable answer. Using cross drilled under heavy full on racing loads may not be a good thing. Dunno. Why does it do better water dispersal? Dunno.
IMO the water dispersal thing is reasonable answer. Using cross drilled under heavy full on racing loads may not be a good thing. Dunno. Why does it do better water dispersal? Dunno.
The other question is, if it's all about contact between caliper and disk, similar to a tire and road, if it were possible would a swiss cheese looking tire perform better in the wet then a traditional wet weather tire (which to me seems analogous to slotted rotors). I know, I know, how do you inflate a tire with holes in it? Beats me, I'm just curious.
As for cast holes vs. drilled holes, the surface created by casting is easy to distinguish from drilled. With sand casting (commonly used for iron or steel parts) the surface would be quite rough. With investment or shell casting it would be smother, but still quite different from drilled.
I assume that the reason for preferring cast holes would be that drilling causes stress in the metal around the hole. So, it seems that they wouldn't want to go in with a drill or reamer to clean out a cast hole. It would tend to defeat the purpose. However, there might be unwanted side-effects from casting holes. The pillars in the mold that will become holes in the cast piece might cause turbulence in the molten metal when it is poured into the mold. This might have an effect on the solidity of the casting. Porosity is one of the major problems with cast parts.
*Monte Python sketch with Mrs. Anne Elk
Seems like slotted would be better because the water has somewhere to escape. Since the calipers come in from both sides, a hole is an enclosed space. It has to be large enough to handle take all the water without filling. Also, a slot would sweep the entire surface of a pad, where a hole would sweep only a small line across the pad. That's my theory, and it is mine. I own it...*
The "slots" in a tire don't go through to the interior, and neither would the holes. Imagine a tire that had nothing but circular depressions in it.
As for cast holes vs. drilled holes, the surface created by casting is easy to distinguish from drilled. With sand casting (commonly used for iron or steel parts) the surface would be quite rough. With investment or shell casting it would be smother, but still quite different from drilled.
I assume that the reason for preferring cast holes would be that drilling causes stress in the metal around the hole. So, it seems that they wouldn't want to go in with a drill or reamer to clean out a cast hole. It would tend to defeat the purpose. However, there might be unwanted side-effects from casting holes. The pillars in the mold that will become holes in the cast piece might cause turbulence in the molten metal when it is poured into the mold. This might have an effect on the solidity of the casting. Porosity is one of the major problems with cast parts.
*Monte Python sketch with Mrs. Anne Elk
The "slots" in a tire don't go through to the interior, and neither would the holes. Imagine a tire that had nothing but circular depressions in it.
As for cast holes vs. drilled holes, the surface created by casting is easy to distinguish from drilled. With sand casting (commonly used for iron or steel parts) the surface would be quite rough. With investment or shell casting it would be smother, but still quite different from drilled.
I assume that the reason for preferring cast holes would be that drilling causes stress in the metal around the hole. So, it seems that they wouldn't want to go in with a drill or reamer to clean out a cast hole. It would tend to defeat the purpose. However, there might be unwanted side-effects from casting holes. The pillars in the mold that will become holes in the cast piece might cause turbulence in the molten metal when it is poured into the mold. This might have an effect on the solidity of the casting. Porosity is one of the major problems with cast parts.
*Monte Python sketch with Mrs. Anne Elk
chows4us, you knock all these "forum opinions" but what are these non-forum sources you point to? Just because they aren't on a message board doesn't boost their credibility. Personally, I trust the folks at TCE more than PFYC, and who is Bill Gregory (excuse me if he's an expert, I simply do not know...)? Let me see, if I post my ideas in an official looking PDF with some great acronyms and my full name, does it make it me more credible?
"Time after time, they all say the same thing."...like every brake expert pointing to no benefits of slotting aside from looking cool. Those two links you provide really don't help in disproving the experts that were quoted at the beginning of this thread. In fact, I'm tempted to say the European Car article simply parroted what Porsche told them through the blurb you link to next.
I don't think the pre-cast partial hole theory is any better than plain cross drilling, however, because like Robin Casady said, the drilling process will weaken the rotors just the same as a regular drilled rotor negating any advantage. Maybe this is actually the truth, though, and the origin of the rumour. It would make sense, wouldn't it? Porsche can't use it as marketing because it has no real advantage over other cross drilled rotors, but its close enough that people may mistake it for fully cast holes.
And finally, I don't think we're getting beyond the original poster's question. I still claim that cross drilling is nothing more than aesthetic, although the water reason makes some sense to me. You disagree. Isn't that his original question? WHY these brakes are on the car? All I've been doing is explaining my position on this and asking you to refine yours.
lhoboy, I'm claiming that Coke does not dispute the EXISTENCE of such a formula. The contents of that mean nothing, just like the existence of cast drilled rotors does not betray the process which is required to manufacture them.
I agree on the published literature. If I were a mfg of such part (as is the internet rumor) I'd surely make it known why my parts were to be superior over conventional drilling! That alone contradicts the rumor to no end.
As for which one is better, IF they do exist, the holes are perhaps less prone to cracking due to the lack of tooling placed upon them. That in my opinion doesn't change the constant thermal problems of expansion and contraction they go through when used. That heat cycling alone in (again my personal opinion) the far greater cause of the cracking than how the hole was inserted.
I remain open minded, skpetical to say the least, but open minded.
As for which one is better, IF they do exist, the holes are perhaps less prone to cracking due to the lack of tooling placed upon them. That in my opinion doesn't change the constant thermal problems of expansion and contraction they go through when used. That heat cycling alone in (again my personal opinion) the far greater cause of the cracking than how the hole was inserted.
I remain open minded, skpetical to say the least, but open minded.
Any secret behind all of this?
Why do many of the exotic cars and super cars have used and still using drilled or slotted rotors?
Is it really just for show?
Since it's been proved that the solid rotor performs better, why are they still using them? Interesting, isn't it.
Umm.....
Why do many of the exotic cars and super cars have used and still using drilled or slotted rotors?
Is it really just for show?
Since it's been proved that the solid rotor performs better, why are they still using them? Interesting, isn't it.
Umm.....

I try to avoid "opinions" on forums without the definitive resource to back it up but I'm finding just a lot of "opinions".
I have found nothing but a bunch of opinions and for both sides. I've read many, many "opinions" that they are in fact cast in, just as much as the people who do not believe. It works both ways.
The reason? Again the most prevalent and the advertised reason seems to be water dispersal.
And lastly, the marketing issue. You can't prove or disprove something where you don't have the answer. Just because you may think it wise to advertise the advantage, others may not. How many more cars do you think Porsche would sell based on this fairly obscure tidbit of knowledge? Is someone who was going to buy a MB AMG whatever going to run down and to their local Porsche dealer if they found out why? IMO, very doubtful. Different marques attract different people for their own reasons. I would think MB shoppers don't cross shop Porsche anymore than Ferrari owners would.
Todd wrote: If I were a mfg of such part (as is the internet rumor) I'd surely make it known why my parts were to be superior over conventional drilling!
That may be true. But thats what your selling. Porsche doesn't sell brakes. It looks like they engineer and design them contracting them to be build by Brembo and SHW (supposedly). Porsche sells cars of which brakes are one component. Does the average Porsche buyer know or even care about the reason? Take a looks at their sales literature, even the thicker 40 - 80 page explanation of a car. At best brakes rate about 2 - 3 lines of info (except for the PCCBs).
As I've said, I can find no definitive soure one way or the other. They do it, they claim its about water dispersal in their advertising literature. I read "opinions" on both sides that they are cast in and some say not. Until Porsche decides to publicize it, I guess we won't know. Internet opnions, on both sides of the argument, are just that, opinions.
Last edited by chows4us; Aug 18, 2007 at 01:04 PM.
And lastly, the marketing issue. You can't prove or disprove something where you don't have the answer. Just because you may think it wise to advertise the advantage, others may not. How many more cars do you think Porsche would sell based on this fairly obscure tidbit of knowledge? Is someone who was going to buy a MB AMG whatever going to run down and to their local Porsche dealer if they found out why? IMO, very doubtful. Different marques attract different people for their own reasons. I would think MB shoppers don't cross shop Porsche anymore than Ferrari owners would.
The fact is they could simply add two words "cast-in" to their literature and they have increased saleability to a number of people. Will they buy cars? Maybe yes, maybe no, but it costs them nothing to add that detail. It seems rather irrational to omit something that could increase sales or even just buzz when it costs nothing.
Again, I go back to Porsche's sensible management in its history. They are driven by a bottom line like every car company, and seem to have kept a close eye on it much better than almost any other manufacturer. To omit such a piece of performance information is simply not within character of this company, a company that you pointed out so well strives to overengineer. Now why would they hide this aspect of overengineering?
Aside from this character argument, however, it would be wise to discuss the issue of opinions, ideas, rumours, etc.
There's a lot of talk about opinions. Who knows if this is true or that is true? It's possible that we can't conclusively prove this position one way or another. We can, however, conclusively say that Porsche does not say it has cast in holes. We can conclusively say that the statement that they are cast is just rumour.
But these things prove nothing.
However, we can also conclusively state that experts who have examined Porsche rotors confirm they are not cast with holes, using physical evidence I might add. Others claim differently but provide no physical or direct evidence, and I have yet to see an analysis supporting the cast-in claim that parallels those disputing it.
All the claims about cast-in holes stem from one source pointing to another to another until we don't know where it came from. I do know where TCE's claim from. It came from their first hand experience. This is where I see the problem. Credibility. So we can argue and argue over the crediblity, but I have shown where my points originate from. Now it's just up to the reader to decide what sources they trust the most.
I think we are getting WAY beyond maxi's intention here which was WHY do the high end cars use cross-drilled brake and the cast-in thing has nothing to do with the original question.
IMO the water dispersal thing is reasonable answer. Using cross drilled under heavy full on racing loads may not be a good thing. Dunno. Why does it do better water dispersal? Dunno.
IMO the water dispersal thing is reasonable answer. Using cross drilled under heavy full on racing loads may not be a good thing. Dunno. Why does it do better water dispersal? Dunno.
Lets debate/discussion continue.
Material may be the key. Put the hi-tech Carbon-Carbon and Carbon Ceremic aside, do you think there might be some different in hi-end oem, lo-end oem and aftermarket drilled/slotted rotors, in term of material that they've used, that make its more/less reliable (cracking problem, etc.).
Last edited by Maxicooper; Aug 18, 2007 at 05:47 PM.
I think it's been a great discussion. For many years for me. Yet in all these years and speak with folks within the industry (certainly much deeper than small shop!) I found nobody who could substantiate the claim/rumor. So much so that I've become willing to pay to see it. My opions are not a lot more "official" other than having researched it more to date
The carbon and other materials present a whole new set of circumstances for production options. Of which I know nothing..
The carbon and other materials present a whole new set of circumstances for production options. Of which I know nothing..




