I'm not an accomplished gearhead like many on this site, and I don't track my car. But I drive the twisties as fast as conditions will allow, sometimes faster than would be prudent. I can tell you that my car (again, JCW w/ Dinan 19) doesn't roll much AT ALL. Just enough to add a little street comfort. I also have not noticed any understeer, even at soft bar setting. If anything, I sometimes find myself too far to the inside of a curve, rather than plowing off the road. Likely has to do with still getting used to this car, but take it for what it's worth.

The JCW is designed for aggressive road driving rather than track, but I would imagine that it would do fine on the track for occasional use. What say you track experienced folks?

 

Yes this is a good point, I wish there were more people with an aftermarket swaybar and the JCW Suspension. I have your ^ view above with the 19 and I emailed a guy off motoringfile with an alta 22. So I'll see which one I like based on how you say it performs, I even asked my friend who owns the eurobahn MCS if he a swaybar, he said that's the only thing the car didn't have!

Mikey

 

Read below what MINIHUNE said because he makes sense ... and I quote:

"It isn't a bad idea to install the JCW suspension first, then drive your MINI around for awhile and see how it feels to you. Later if you want, you can add a rear swaybar if needed. I'd recommend attending a driving school so you can have an instructor drive your car with you in it so you can see how large a performance envelope your MINI already has."


These are some profound words, especially the last sentence. All the equipment in the world isn't going to do any good if you don't know how to really drive it. Take a look at Motoringfiles last article about Gabe going to Driving School.

I have your the JCW suspension and the HP as well. I've asked the same question. Yes, there some who swear they want the car neutral or oversteering for racing. Are you racing?

MINIHUNEs last sentence is key. When that tail end comes around at speed because your oversteering, do you know what to do?

I'm taking minihunes suggestion and waiting to see if I really want to add a bigger rear bar because I dont drive at 10/10s around every corner nor care to. If your at 9/10s, then it don't matter.

 

eMINI,

Thank you very much for the direction. I really appreciate it.

 

mikey- at the end of the day, all these specs and referrals aren't going to mean anything unless the bar matches your driving habits and handling goals.

I think you should just stick to your stock swaybar and stock springs for now
and just learn how to drive the darn car.

 

My pleasure.:smile:

 

I would say you need to slow down.

 

Oh, you were kidding. Right?

 

The only thing that is warrantied is the bar itself. This is not something to worry about. I doubt that you're going to break your aftermarket anti-sway bar, so if I were you, I'd buy the aftermarket anti-swaybar of choice, not worrying about the warranty.

 

I know many of you view it differently but what is the overall consensus, that if I am still not satisfied with the JCW Susp. in terms of roll and slippage (understeer), of what size I would need?
Also what is the best bar?

Thanks
Mike

 

The rear swaybars really aren't all that different from each other. I'd say pick a 3-way adjustable, just because it will give you more options.

And remember, a huge swaybar on one end of the car and a tiny one on the other end will not make the car corner "flat". It might make the car handle more "neutral", but not "flat". Check out some pictures of VWs with the rear inside tire in the air (or my Cooper in this post: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...9&postcount=21 ), or Porsche 911s with the front inside tire in the air. Not flat - depending upon how you define flat, I guess.

 

so what would a front one do?

 

is there actually a danger of flipping the car in this condition?^ (velvet's pic)

 

nope

 

That person needs stiffer springs!

 

Definately do the rear sway bar!!!... car stays flatter in turns and generally turns in faster. You'll notice a big difference. Tell your Dad and Uncle to sit down and sh*t-up.

BTW, I'd go with the Alta 22mm though - not the 19mm. ...Just my .02 tho'

- - Michael

 

First, if you haven't even bought the JCW suspension yet, how can you possibly be worried about how its going to feel yet? Further, it looks like you want to sink another $6K in to the tuning kit. If you change the suspension before getting the tuning kit do you think maybe you haven't balanced the car with the right HorsePower? Perhaps the extra HP might make the car feel differently?

Second, nobody is going to be able to tell you what size bar you need because everyone's "needs" are different. You need to decide how the car feels (even I know that). All cars are NOT identical.

Third, Nobody can tell you what the best bar is. Remember that ALL those companies pushing their wares exist for ONE reason and one reason only ... to make money. I'm sure Alta, H-sport and whoever else will tell you that THEIR bar is the best. Even R. Webb recommends three different vendors.

Fourth, probably more important is unsprung weight. All those expensive suspension parts aren't going to help if the power doens't get to the ground. Those R90s weigh 100 pounds or so for 4. Kind of heavy.

I dont think this is an exact science. Most of what I see are piecemeal solutions with ppl trying bits and parts and seeing what works. I see no "integrated" solutions EXCEPT for Dinan that does have a complete suspension setup including rear bar, camber plates, etc.

 

Chows4us - right on baby

Chilli, in a more perfect world, (the proper way of tuning) sway bar selection is last - fine tuning. Your car's major handling character must be - should be defined by other things first. If you are indeed unhappy with what you have now, resist the temptation to correct your dissatisfaction with a big sway bar.

Flat cornering does not necessarily mean good handling...a little roll does not necssarily mean bad handling. As chows4us wrote, lighten up your wheels and unsprung weight, take a look at bushing stiffness, spring and damping qualities - ride height, geometry, then, swaybar. Although tuning is a backward and forward process, the above is the path you should use to begin tuning. If some things are givens because of cost or time, then you must inherit these compromises as part of your tuning.

Before doing anything, learn your car; as Minihune wrote, go to a track with an instructor. Pushing a car on the track, and, on the street will provide you with some very valuable information...tuning options.