Well I seem to be dead in the water because I can't figure out how to torque the rear strut rod nut at the top of the assembly:



I can get a 1/2"-drive 11/16" socket over the nut, but I don't know how to hold on to the 1/4" diameter round center post with 3/16" (possibly 5mm) flats on the side. Much less how to get a torque wrench on it.

Surely this has been solved in the past, but how?? Best I can do at the moment is vice-grips on the nut and needle nose pliers on the shaft. Which isn't even enough to overcome the Nylok...

 

You need one of these "Oblate sockets", 5.2mm size. I had to resort to buying a $100 47-piece kit, but I was pressed for time. The tools work really well though.

Apparently they are used on VW, Audi and Nissan.

 

Hello,

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...t_Nut_Socket/#



Then get a little micro wrench to hold center or something else.

These should help. Also great for people who have the EDC/DDC with that little wire sticking out.

 

Thanks, ECS, I suppose a very small open end wrench or possibly needle-nosed vice grips could do it. The torque spec for the ST rear strut nut is 20 N*m, and and nut would use a 17mm socket. Although it would not take much to round-off the corners of the Oblate shaft end.

 

Welcome!

 

I’m not seeing anything different than hex nuts or bolts ?

im assuming it’s an Aftermarket ST thing….will that be the same for KW ?

 

My ohlins and most others have the allen head. ST i guess they like to be different.

 

The front strut rod of the ST kit had an external hex which was pretty easy to work with. The KW street kit is likely to be the same, but not necessarily. The ST instructions were branded "KW Automotive" in the header.
I would think with modest effort one could find or borrow the 5.2mm Oblate socket. It's just kinda sad they didn't put 4 more flats on there... would have been well worth the cost to most people.

Anyway the handling improvements have exceeded my expectations, and the increased ride stiffness is not objectionable to me.