Suspension Talk me out of running Wilwoods on track.
#26
I was able to use the bracket I have to mount the brakes on the r53 jcw rotors with thick washers.
The reason I want to switch, I use 15" track wheels and I do a lot of track days replacing rotors every month gets old. r53 jcw rotors are 35 $ each and are heavy, they do not crack as fast for me, however jcw pads cost 3 times as much as 7817 st43 pads. I would like to use st43 with the cheap jcw rotors
The reason I want to switch, I use 15" track wheels and I do a lot of track days replacing rotors every month gets old. r53 jcw rotors are 35 $ each and are heavy, they do not crack as fast for me, however jcw pads cost 3 times as much as 7817 st43 pads. I would like to use st43 with the cheap jcw rotors
Nice, never tried it.
#27
#28
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I seem to remember that with the rotor off and the caliper off the bracket, putting the bracket on with washers was not too hard. But to get to ~3mm (~ 0.10”) would take a stack of them. What about 1 or 2 regualar flat washers. They would be easier to handle. I think I got some SS washers at the hardware store to do mine (that might have been for the caliper to bracket spacing). Just thinking out loud here....
Last edited by Eddie07S; 12-31-2018 at 02:16 PM. Reason: Typo on the 0.10”
#32
I'd certainly urge you to stick with only the heavier 36 vane GT castings from Wilwood for track day use, not the bottom feeder ones...as you can see. They run about $107ea from me so I cannot compare to that top one from someone else.
You have no argument from me on the cost/time equation. The heavier casting of the TCE Race version will address that but you'd need an all new kit really; hats, rotors, calipers....maybe use the hats of they are in good shape but you'd junk the calipers at the least.
You have no argument from me on the cost/time equation. The heavier casting of the TCE Race version will address that but you'd need an all new kit really; hats, rotors, calipers....maybe use the hats of they are in good shape but you'd junk the calipers at the least.
#35
#36
My apologies for my last post. It was written late last night and not well thought out...
Let’s start over...
Happy New Year and may the new year be great for you!
I wanted to chime in on this one as brakes on the MINI has been one of my nemesis with these cars on the track. I have gone through may pads and rotors and ABS computer reprogramming just to get to the point of feeling comfortable with these things. Some of my issues were related to the DTS and the eLSD that BMW/MINI went to. Others were related to cooling of the brakes (the lack there of) and my selection of wheel sizes, which affects cooling.
But a few questions...
What Generation and year MINI is this for?
When you say that you are going with the Wilwood DynaPro 6, do you mean this BBK from Wilwood?
https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...emno=140-13062
Instead of that BBK I would seriously look at the TCE Performance Plus 3a kit, about halfway down the page here:
http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...07-13/kits-40/
This has a massive brake pad that is almost twice as thick as the pad in that 6 pot Wilwood kit. I have seen this BBK in use on a friend’s MINI on one of the most brake demanding tracks out there - Watkins Glen - where I have had my brake issues and he didn’t.
Pads are also important. I have used many, both in brands and compounds. For high temperature, I finally found success with the Hawk DTC60. On tracks that are not so brake demanding, the Wilwood Poly H or, even, the BP30. With that TCE BBK my friend had success with the Carbotech XP12.
#37
I'd certainly urge you to stick with only the heavier 36 vane GT castings from Wilwood for track day use, not the bottom feeder ones...as you can see. They run about $107ea from me so I cannot compare to that top one from someone else.
You have no argument from me on the cost/time equation. The heavier casting of the TCE Race version will address that but you'd need an all new kit really; hats, rotors, calipers....maybe use the hats of they are in good shape but you'd junk the calipers at the least.
You have no argument from me on the cost/time equation. The heavier casting of the TCE Race version will address that but you'd need an all new kit really; hats, rotors, calipers....maybe use the hats of they are in good shape but you'd junk the calipers at the least.
#38
#39
the mk2 abs is one of the best abs modules around, they make a race version too that can be programmed and there is a guy that can reflash stock ones with race firmware for bmw not sure if he can do it for mini units. Once you flat spot a tire you will wish you had it back.
#42
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Are you two getting on the ABS when you are braking?
The ABS recoding that I was referring to has to do with a modification that BMW/MINI makes to make their Brembo style BBK compatable with ABS pump. There is a difference in caliper piston size between the stock S caliper and the JCW (Brembo) caliper and if the MINI recoding isn’t done, then the ABS causes the brakes to over-brake when performing the eLSD function. The eLSD is part of the DTC option and, with 2010 models and beyond, is where MINI uses the brakes to perform the function that a mechanical LSD would perform to keep the inside drive wheel from spinning when in a turn. This shouldn’t be an issue with pre-2010 MINIs, as they would have a mechanical LSD if anything at all.
The ABS recoding that I was referring to has to do with a modification that BMW/MINI makes to make their Brembo style BBK compatable with ABS pump. There is a difference in caliper piston size between the stock S caliper and the JCW (Brembo) caliper and if the MINI recoding isn’t done, then the ABS causes the brakes to over-brake when performing the eLSD function. The eLSD is part of the DTC option and, with 2010 models and beyond, is where MINI uses the brakes to perform the function that a mechanical LSD would perform to keep the inside drive wheel from spinning when in a turn. This shouldn’t be an issue with pre-2010 MINIs, as they would have a mechanical LSD if anything at all.
#45
#48
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I like this looks of the High Plains track. That looks like a lot of fun and the elevation changes should make it even more interesting. It also looks like it has some heavy braking zones. Couldn’t tell much about the other 2 tracks in the quick look I did.
Also, I just notice your signature: a 27mm FSB to go with you 25.5mm RSB. Go You
There are not too many of us with that suspension combination. What do you have for shocks or coilovers?
Also, I just notice your signature: a 27mm FSB to go with you 25.5mm RSB. Go You
There are not too many of us with that suspension combination. What do you have for shocks or coilovers?
#49
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iTrader: (1)
The more I think about the tracks you are on and the HP you are pushing (higher speeds than I would be seeing), the more I think you would be better off with the TCE Plus 3a BBK with the 13” rotor. I would also recommend upgrading your rear brakes to the Gen II rear brakes. These are larger in dia than what you have now and they will relieve the front brakes of some of their braking duties. I known, “the rear brakes don’t do anything”, but I know that isn’t true as I gone to a more agressive rear pad and definitely had an improvement in my braking. With my next change of my rear rotors I will be making that change so I can maybe use a less agressive pad. For the Gen II MINIs it is just a change to the bracket that holds the caliper and a larger rotor. My guess the same bracket woiuld work on your car. Way Motors carries that bracket.
PS - If you go with the TCE kit, I have 2 sets of pads you can have...just a thought...
PS - If you go with the TCE kit, I have 2 sets of pads you can have...just a thought...
#50
The difference is marginal. Stock 54 mm single piston caliper piston area is only about 1% larger than piston area of JCW Brembo 38/38 mm.
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