Suspension R56 rear alignment
#1
R56 rear alignment
Hi Folks,
I just had to replace a rear right trailing arm and shock on my 2008 cooper s.
I marked the trailing arm bushing location before i removed it and placed the new one as close as possible.
Also marked the position of the adjustable bolt on the lower comtrol arm before I removed it and placed the new one as close as possible.
Can i do the alignment myself or do I Need to take it in?
cheers and thanks
andrew
I just had to replace a rear right trailing arm and shock on my 2008 cooper s.
I marked the trailing arm bushing location before i removed it and placed the new one as close as possible.
Also marked the position of the adjustable bolt on the lower comtrol arm before I removed it and placed the new one as close as possible.
Can i do the alignment myself or do I Need to take it in?
cheers and thanks
andrew
#2
4wheel alignment is pretty accurate with the string box around the car method.
Remember that the rear track is slightly wider than the front so
you want the space from string to front tire further by half that amount each.
For camber, you can get surprisingly accurate numbers with a
12 inch combo square with level plus a small steel rule and a
calculator for the trig.
Also need a level surface to park on.
Failing that, can check one way then turn the car around 180 degrees
and check again and take the average.
Shifting the rear trailing arm to adjust rear toe is a bit hit and miss,
easier with the eccentric socket tool but certainly doable without it.
Remember that the rear track is slightly wider than the front so
you want the space from string to front tire further by half that amount each.
For camber, you can get surprisingly accurate numbers with a
12 inch combo square with level plus a small steel rule and a
calculator for the trig.
Also need a level surface to park on.
Failing that, can check one way then turn the car around 180 degrees
and check again and take the average.
Shifting the rear trailing arm to adjust rear toe is a bit hit and miss,
easier with the eccentric socket tool but certainly doable without it.
#3
It depends what you want to do. If this is a track or performance application, then I would get it aligned. If its a daily, then I would set the toe, and see how the car drives. I like the string method, but I measure the distance between the strings at the front and rear of the car to setup the box, rather than adjust for track width.
If the car turns the same left and right, then I wouldn't worry about the alignment. Toe will wear out tires quickly and has a pretty significant impact on handling.
Mike
If the car turns the same left and right, then I wouldn't worry about the alignment. Toe will wear out tires quickly and has a pretty significant impact on handling.
Mike
#4
Take it in and get it professionally done, you will never get the rear thrust angle correct, if you have a good alignment guy he can get it it exactly on spec. and ask him to print out the results so you can check them. I am fortunate because I am a tech and have access to all the shop equipment, when I aligned my car and my sons car, they were both way out, way too much front and rear toe, and thrust angle out by a mile, easy to adjust live numbers on the rack so you can set rear toe and thrust perfectly, both cars are way more stable to drive, takes a bit more to initiate a turn but there is way less front end push into tight turns, and with stiffer sway bars in rear the back end snaps around alot easier.
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