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SuspensionSprings, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.
Well got the parts today and very first impression is, great! Everything seems to be solid and nothing stands out to be an issue. I went with a 17 inch center shaft. With the ends threaded Into the center shaft and measured out to the same length as the stock ones, There is 3/4 of an inch threaded Into the center shaft. I feel that is more than enough to be "safe" if you want more, then go with the 18 inch bar. But once you start getting more positive camber more will be threaded in. Overall first impression is a good one! Just have to install them and get an alignment and just drive on them and see how they last. But for 83 bucks in materials I'm willing to give it a shot. Also I went with forged steel ends that are zinc plated. You can go with polished stainless ends if you want it to look better. But since it's under the car I did not care.
Are the rod sleeves reverse threaded? So basically the parts list is :
2 rod sleeves
2 LH threaded ends
2 RH threaded ends
2 LH threaded jam nuts
2 RH threaded jam nuts
Are the rod sleeves reverse threaded? So basically the parts list is :
2 rod sleeves
2 LH threaded ends
2 RH threaded ends
2 LH threaded jam nuts
2 RH threaded jam nuts
yeah they are reversed threaded, I just went with aluminium, you can get steel and or chromoly. But the aluminum is 6061 and should be more than strong enough.
What about the width of the bushing? How does that compare to the stock bushing? (since it has to slot into the rear knuckle and the frame.)
The widest part on the ends that I got (bushing with) makes the endlink 1.397 inches wide. The width of the slot in the knuckle is 1.547 inches. Little different, but not somthing crazy. I'll just have a shim made if I feel it's necessary, will see once I start installing.
They is only a 15 hundredth difference between these and the mounting point. But whoever else gives these a try make sure you measure, measure, measure. I'm not sure if the stock arms are different in length on different years and models.
Well finally got some time to install the rear lower control arms. Everything went smooth and had no issues. There is a little size difference between the ends and the stock ends but nothing a few washer couldn't fix. I Think I got 7/8 flat washers and put on both sides of the ends. Filled the gap nice and once installed everything snugged down like it should! Now just to get and alignment and see how well the last.
Well finally got some time to install the rear lower control arms. Everything went smooth and had no issues. There is a little size difference between the ends and the stock ends but nothing a few washer couldn't fix. I Think I got 7/8 flat washers and put on both sides of the ends. Filled the gap nice and once installed everything snugged down like it should! Now just to get and alignment and see how well the last.
Those look great!!! Definitely think I have to do this for my uppers to adjust the toe.
When installing the control arms what is the torque Spec for the bolts? So far all is good I've been driving on these for a few weeks now and they are holding up great. Lock nuts are not coming loose so far so good except for a popping noise. The first week there wasn't a noise and now it's consistent when going over bumps or the car is articulating. These ends as re 5mm narrower that the stock so I filled the space with a flat washed on either side. I can get them to tighten right down and have everything tight but I'm wondering if it's to tight and it's keeping the arm from moving when the wheel goes up and down and that's where I'm getting the popping sound.? It doesn't seem like the washers would affect anything because the the stock arm has metal that is in contact with the mounting surface. But I'm also wondering if it could be that the washer as not physically attached to the end and that is moving differently then the end when the wheel moves? Hmmm
When installing the control arms what is the torque Spec for the bolts? So far all is good I've been driving on these for a few weeks now and they are holding up great. Lock nuts are not coming loose so far so good except for a popping noise. The first week there wasn't a noise and now it's consistent when going over bumps or the car is articulating. These ends as re 5mm narrower that the stock so I filled the space with a flat washed on either side. I can get them to tighten right down and have everything tight but I'm wondering if it's to tight and it's keeping the arm from moving when the wheel goes up and down and that's where I'm getting the popping sound.? It doesn't seem like the washers would affect anything because the the stock arm has metal that is in contact with the mounting surface. But I'm also wondering if it could be that the washer as not physically attached to the end and that is moving differently then the end when the wheel moves? Hmmm
It is possible the bushing is binding up on the washers, then letting go when you hit a bump. I would want the center Steve to be tight against the yoke, not the bushing. The washers are possibly holding the bushing tight and not letting the arm move like it wants to.
Yeah, I could have went with the stainless ends but I figured since it's under the car np one would see it.
I would be more concerned about the corrosion over time rather than the looks. Chainlink fence posts are zinc plated too, after all. I'm definitely watching this thread though. I'll be doing this for adjustable rears if I ever lower my car!
It is possible the bushing is binding up on the washers, then letting go when you hit a bump. I would want the center Steve to be tight against the yoke, not the bushing. The washers are possibly holding the bushing tight and not letting the arm move like it wants to.
yeah I'm going to pull them out and see if I can close the gap without them and if I can see if that eliminates the popping spund. If it works this will save people money if not it was a good try haha.
Well I pulled the washers out and it didn't help, still had the popping sound. So I'm going to call the company and see if they have a solution or see if i can get a wider end link. If that fails, I'll make my own! This will work in the end, ha
Well I pulled the washers out and it didn't help, still had the popping sound. So I'm going to call the company and see if they have a solution or see if i can get a wider end link. If that fails, I'll make my own! This will work in the end, ha
Tighten up your sway bar end links for the popping sound. I don't believe that it's your arms are making that noise.
they are tight, I put the stock arms back on and the sound is gone, so it deff was coming from the smaller end links. Either way I'm going to get this figured out so we have a cheaper option to choose from.
Well I found a company in Cali that can male me a bushing to the exact size I need. The outer sleeve is quarter wall they said it would be think enough to weld a 5/8 rod to so I can thread it into my bar. But I'm wondering if that would hold over time or if the metal will get hard and be a weak point. Or I could just get a heim joint and have my friend Mill up some spacers kinda like the alta setup. Not sure what I wanna do.
I ended up getting heim joints they are precision with a Teflon lining to help with noise and smoothness. They actually had a dust cover that snaps on either side of the heim to protect it from the elements. I should be getting them today then I'm going to mill some spacers so I have the exact fit I need. Hoping to have it done this weekend bit we will see. I have quizzes and exams all next week so I need to get some studying in. Cannot wait till college is over!
I don't understand why your original setup didn't work since it's exactly how most aftermarket arms are setup. Just makes me wonder if there's something being overlooked aside from the joint type.
04-28-2017, 11:59 AM
