Suspension Considering A Suspension Upgrade
#1
Considering A Suspension Upgrade
I have 2009 daily driver with 95K miles that I bought used a couple of years ago. Don't have the full history on the car, but I'm assuming that I have stock or OEM shocks.
My mechanic pointed out that I had a crack starting on the left front strut mount and ought to think about having it replaced in the near future when he was fixing another issue. That lead me to thinking to replacing more than just the mount.
Been reading through various threads and I was thinking I might opt for Koni Yellows with NM Engineering R55 Springs.
Don't really have a specific question. It just seems a little overboard to replace an $85 part with $1000+ solution so I guess I'm just looking for encouragement.
My mechanic pointed out that I had a crack starting on the left front strut mount and ought to think about having it replaced in the near future when he was fixing another issue. That lead me to thinking to replacing more than just the mount.
Been reading through various threads and I was thinking I might opt for Koni Yellows with NM Engineering R55 Springs.
Don't really have a specific question. It just seems a little overboard to replace an $85 part with $1000+ solution so I guess I'm just looking for encouragement.
#2
Well... now that I think about it, I guess I do have some questions.
1. Thinking about doing the work myself. Especially after watching a few videos, like
.
2. Does the brand of strut mount really matter? ECS Tuning has some that are less than $25. At that price, I might as well put on new mounts all around, right?
3. Do I only need to replace the rear control arms with adjustable ones?
1. Thinking about doing the work myself. Especially after watching a few videos, like
2. Does the brand of strut mount really matter? ECS Tuning has some that are less than $25. At that price, I might as well put on new mounts all around, right?
3. Do I only need to replace the rear control arms with adjustable ones?
#3
I used lemforder myself. Everything else is good. Just dont use the Moog brand you find elsewhere and you are fine.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nts-split.html
If you want more adjustability set up to a front strut mount camber kit.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-Cooper-R55-S_Clubman-Coupe-L4_1.6L_N14B16A/Suspension/Shocks/2
If you are going low and want rear adjustability and not chop up the tires go with the rear adjustable control arms.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nts-split.html
If you want more adjustability set up to a front strut mount camber kit.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-Cooper-R55-S_Clubman-Coupe-L4_1.6L_N14B16A/Suspension/Shocks/2
If you are going low and want rear adjustability and not chop up the tires go with the rear adjustable control arms.
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#4
#5
Ok, you are welcome.
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#6
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
I have 2009 daily driver with 95K miles that I bought used a couple of years ago. Don't have the full history on the car, but I'm assuming that I have stock or OEM shocks.
My mechanic pointed out that I had a crack starting on the left front strut mount and ought to think about having it replaced in the near future when he was fixing another issue. That lead me to thinking to replacing more than just the mount.
Been reading through various threads and I was thinking I might opt for Koni Yellows with NM Engineering R55 Springs.
Don't really have a specific question. It just seems a little overboard to replace an $85 part with $1000+ solution so I guess I'm just looking for encouragement.
My mechanic pointed out that I had a crack starting on the left front strut mount and ought to think about having it replaced in the near future when he was fixing another issue. That lead me to thinking to replacing more than just the mount.
Been reading through various threads and I was thinking I might opt for Koni Yellows with NM Engineering R55 Springs.
Don't really have a specific question. It just seems a little overboard to replace an $85 part with $1000+ solution so I guess I'm just looking for encouragement.
#7
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
check out the Megan coilovers. Both less than $1000 and will include everything you need included front strut mounts
https://www.waymotorworks.com/megan-...7-r58-r59.html
or with camber plates
https://www.waymotorworks.com/megan-...5-r56-r57.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/megan-...7-r58-r59.html
or with camber plates
https://www.waymotorworks.com/megan-...5-r56-r57.html
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#8
@Eddie07S -- you're right, I didn't really state my goals did I? Doh!
I like spirited driving but I'm not planning on autocross, or taking her to the track. However, I would like improved handling and a slight drop, but not at the expense of overall comfort. So basically, you nailed it. :-)
The Bilstein's that you're referring to are these?:
https://www.waymotorworks.com/bilste...6-r55-r57.html
I did the Blimey last year at the Minis on the Dragon and the leader had an R55 with Konis and the NME springs. I saw nkfry from Detroit Tuned recommended the same setup, which is why I had figured on going that route. I don't really need the adjustability, I was just looking for an inexpensive Koni option and didn't know if the Koni FSDs word work or not.
@WayMotorWorks -- hey man! Thank you for chiming in. So you're recommending just switching to coilovers and forgoing the NME springs all together? I see that they are adjustable but how much harder of a ride would I see with Megan EUs?
I like spirited driving but I'm not planning on autocross, or taking her to the track. However, I would like improved handling and a slight drop, but not at the expense of overall comfort. So basically, you nailed it. :-)
The Bilstein's that you're referring to are these?:
https://www.waymotorworks.com/bilste...6-r55-r57.html
I did the Blimey last year at the Minis on the Dragon and the leader had an R55 with Konis and the NME springs. I saw nkfry from Detroit Tuned recommended the same setup, which is why I had figured on going that route. I don't really need the adjustability, I was just looking for an inexpensive Koni option and didn't know if the Koni FSDs word work or not.
@WayMotorWorks -- hey man! Thank you for chiming in. So you're recommending just switching to coilovers and forgoing the NME springs all together? I see that they are adjustable but how much harder of a ride would I see with Megan EUs?
#9
check out the Megan coilovers. Both less than $1000 and will include everything you need included front strut mounts
https://www.waymotorworks.com/megan-...7-r58-r59.html
or with camber plates
https://www.waymotorworks.com/megan-...5-r56-r57.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/megan-...7-r58-r59.html
or with camber plates
https://www.waymotorworks.com/megan-...5-r56-r57.html
#11
So, having just done my front struts on my Gen1 last weekend, I feel I can give some installation info at least. I went w/ the Lemfoeder mounts b/c they're the OE supplier (yet the mounts are $35 @ Pelican vs $111 to buy BMW branded @ Pelican.... SMH). I went w/ the Bilstein B4s b/c it's what everyone said was the recommended OE style replacement (I think I've since read 15% stiffer than OE). One thing I really like about shopping at PelicanParts is that they show the manufacturers that are the OE suppliers. Even if you didn't buy there (and I couldn't find better prices, but I was also in a bit of a rush given the state of my mounts and their "parking lot singing"), it helps w/ the due diligence.
Consider this, at 95k miles one the OE struts, just about anything will be an improvement. But, depending on where you live, that ~4-5 hour job could easily be a 12-15 hour job. My car has lived its whole life in Illinois and Indiana. Body wise it's doing well, but 14 years of Midwest winters were evident trying to get things apart. I'm lucky I didn't snap a pinch bolt (which I would have new if I were doing it again). Only other recommendation I can think of at the present: Pick up a cheap bottle of non-synth ATF, a can of Acetone, and a hand oiler. 50/50 mix of Acetone/ATF makes one of the best penetrating oils, and you can make a half gallon for about $8-10.
And, on the bright side, you shouldn't have to fix mushroomed towers in the process!!
Consider this, at 95k miles one the OE struts, just about anything will be an improvement. But, depending on where you live, that ~4-5 hour job could easily be a 12-15 hour job. My car has lived its whole life in Illinois and Indiana. Body wise it's doing well, but 14 years of Midwest winters were evident trying to get things apart. I'm lucky I didn't snap a pinch bolt (which I would have new if I were doing it again). Only other recommendation I can think of at the present: Pick up a cheap bottle of non-synth ATF, a can of Acetone, and a hand oiler. 50/50 mix of Acetone/ATF makes one of the best penetrating oils, and you can make a half gallon for about $8-10.
And, on the bright side, you shouldn't have to fix mushroomed towers in the process!!
#12
We have the Lemfoeder link above for about $23.80 I used that brand on my Gen 1 MINI. Have not changed them out on my gen 2 yet I have.
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#13
EDIT: Actually, when I just go through the suspension products on your site, those mounts linked above don't show up.The Lemforder ES#: 2785015 Mfg#: 3130677883 do priced at $35.43 ea do.
I guess my next question is: What's the difference between those 2 Lemfoeder mounts, just the painted metal?
Last edited by ST3ALTHPSYCH0; 05-09-2017 at 05:45 AM.
#14
Nah, not a problem. You might just have missed it.
Make sure you are searching the Gen 2 MINIs and not searching just generally without selecting a model. Like by keyword. I see them on our site like above and in the 2007 MINI Cooper N14 engines.
ES2785015 3130677883 is gen 1 MINIs W10/W11 engines from 3/2002-2008
Make sure you are searching the Gen 2 MINIs and not searching just generally without selecting a model. Like by keyword. I see them on our site like above and in the 2007 MINI Cooper N14 engines.
ES2785015 3130677883 is gen 1 MINIs W10/W11 engines from 3/2002-2008
__________________
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#15
Nah, not a problem. You might just have missed it.
Make sure you are searching the Gen 2 MINIs and not searching just generally without selecting a model. Like by keyword. I see them on our site like above and in the 2007 MINI Cooper N14 engines.
ES2785015 3130677883 is gen 1 MINIs W10/W11 engines from 3/2002-2008
Make sure you are searching the Gen 2 MINIs and not searching just generally without selecting a model. Like by keyword. I see them on our site like above and in the 2007 MINI Cooper N14 engines.
ES2785015 3130677883 is gen 1 MINIs W10/W11 engines from 3/2002-2008
OTOH, $12 is a small price to pay to get the right part.
Sorry for any confusion, carry on. I should have made it clearer than I was relating the experience of replacing OE equipment that many miles after it should have been, not necessarily doing a Gen 2.
#16
I am with rckrzy1. I want to keep stock ride height when needed, but drop down when desired. I live on dirt roads, so need to adjust for seasons. How "easy" is the actual ride-height adjustment? I am ready to pull the trigger, once I/we get an answer. Thanks in advance, Way!
#17
#18
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
@Eddie07S -- you're right, I didn't really state my goals did I? Doh!
I like spirited driving but I'm not planning on autocross, or taking her to the track. However, I would like improved handling and a slight drop, but not at the expense of overall comfort. So basically, you nailed it. :-)
The Bilstein's that you're referring to are these?:
https://www.waymotorworks.com/bilste...6-r55-r57.html
I did the Blimey last year at the Minis on the Dragon and the leader had an R55 with Konis and the NME springs. I saw nkfry from Detroit Tuned recommended the same setup, which is why I had figured on going that route. I don't really need the adjustability, I was just looking for an inexpensive Koni option and didn't know if the Koni FSDs word work or not.
@WayMotorWorks -- hey man! Thank you for chiming in. So you're recommending just switching to coilovers and forgoing the NME springs all together? I see that they are adjustable but how much harder of a ride would I see with Megan EUs?
I like spirited driving but I'm not planning on autocross, or taking her to the track. However, I would like improved handling and a slight drop, but not at the expense of overall comfort. So basically, you nailed it. :-)
The Bilstein's that you're referring to are these?:
https://www.waymotorworks.com/bilste...6-r55-r57.html
I did the Blimey last year at the Minis on the Dragon and the leader had an R55 with Konis and the NME springs. I saw nkfry from Detroit Tuned recommended the same setup, which is why I had figured on going that route. I don't really need the adjustability, I was just looking for an inexpensive Koni option and didn't know if the Koni FSDs word work or not.
@WayMotorWorks -- hey man! Thank you for chiming in. So you're recommending just switching to coilovers and forgoing the NME springs all together? I see that they are adjustable but how much harder of a ride would I see with Megan EUs?
https://www.waymotorworks.com/irelan...5-r56-r57.html
I know you said you would like to slightly lower the car but I would try the stock springs with the Bilstiens and the IE plates. With this setup, you get your handling without sacrificing ride or added noise. The IE camber plates are all you will want for on the street camber plus they have the noise isolation the Megans with camber plates won't have. Of course you could get the Megan with the IE camber plates and likely do well. The Way Motors description of the Megans says that they are 7kg front and 6 kg rear. That is about 1.5x stiffer than what you currently have; maybe a bit more. Not sure if the stiffer springs can be offset with the adjustment the Megans have. Note the dampening adjustment is on the top of the shock which means that you would have to remove the rears to adjust them.