Rear strut-->do I need special tools? (RSB tips too)
 

(Short answer is "no", no special tools are needed, just a 13mm deep wall socket for the top two bolts, and a 21mm socket for the bottom bolt.)

I got a 19mm RaSB and I'm contemplating doing the install by myself at my house with jackstands and a floor jack. I read the instructions, I've read a couple DIY guides and I watched a video. The job doesn't seem THAT difficult, loosen like 12 bolts, pull out the bar, put the new one in, tighten the bolts.

The problem I have is that all the instructions either skip over the strut removal or say 'installation is same as removal' and it takes 'approximately 1 hour with a lift'. I figured I would schedule 3 hours to do the job to account for n00b errors and being alone, but I was planning to use an air ratchet and my 12v DeWalt impact to speed things up.

Before I go out and start tearing my car apart, I need to know if I need a special tool to compress the rear struts or a cut-away socket to tighten it all down like they use on the fronts.

I'm not supposed to work on my car where I live anyway, and the HOA will have a cow if I end up leaving the mini on jackstands or can't get it back together before they notice.

Anyone taken their struts out or done the RaSB on an r53 that can comment on special tools or realistic labor time?

Update: I did the RSB install today. I gathered all the tools listed in this DIY I found on the net which was helpful, but I also needed a hex/allen wrench and 16mm wrench to loosen and tighten the end link nuts. Jacking the car up is always a pleasure (sarcasm) so I'm still looking for a reasonably safe way to jack up the REAR of the car without using those jack stand points. The kinda reinforced area doesn't extend far enough back, and I was basically jacking up the MIDDLE of the car.

Other than that, getting the bar out and the new one in was easy; the hardest parts were 1) replacing the stock RSB brackets with the WMW zerk-fitting ones (seemed the stock bolts weren't long enough), 2) putting the rubber covers back over the bottoms of the struts, and 3) getting the subframe back up in place.

I was having some serious concerns about being able to get it back together since I could not move it to get even close to lining up. Eventually I jacked up the bottom of the strut and put the top bolts in to relieve some of the pressure/weight and then used a pry bar/breaker bar to line up the INNER subframe bolts and got them started with my impact. Once that happened, I followed suit with the impact and the outer bolts.

Total time, including messing with all that, going to buy a sandwich, clean up and a road test was about 3.5 hours. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, and I did it all by myself in my carport with tools I already had.

I used a socket for spark plugs to tighten the top. It had a six sided nut-type feature that I could grab with a wrench while using an allen key through the top 3/8 square hole. Off is not issue, use air gun, if the old one gets trashed = no worries.

You do need a spring compressor to do this work, sometimes they rent them at autoparts stores, but not around me. Do like the guy who had it before me, buy one, use it, return it (that's what someone must have done before I bought it since it was used)

Best do it somewhere else in case they get huffy while working, or be prepared to just stand your ground and say "screw you" and take another 2 hrs to finish. It isn't fast enough to guaranty no one will complain.

Nick5811
I asume Rasb=rear sway bar. Sorry but I have never seen that term. You will not need any special tools to remove/install the rear bar. The cut away socket you refer to is only needed to remove/replace the front struts. The rear shock will be able to be moved out of the way by removing the two top bolts. It seems that you have aloted enough time to do the job but having a helper is always nice.
Steve

I own a spring compressor, but I've also used nylon ratcheting straps, such as replacing strut mounts with struts still on car. Not as fast as the proper compressor, and a bit awkward to work with, but they are perfectly safe if you use two opposed, and balance the force. They are probably safer than many of the cheaper coil spring compressors, actually.

This is what I was planning to do based on the other thread I saw

That's kind of what I was afraid of...but then I'm hearing different things:

Yes, I meant Rear anti Sway Bar!

That's what I was hoping, that the tool was only for the fronts. It's not listed on the instructions that came with my bar. Do I have to use a jack to compress them and get them to fit back in their places?

Thanks. I hope that turns out to be the case.

I have swapped out springs a few times on my car without a spring compressor. Not the safest way to do it but it can be done fairly easily.

If you're just doing the sway bar, you don't need to compress the springs. They just unscrew from top and bottom. Pull 'em out, put 'em back.

I know that there is a DIY thread on here somewhere that shows the change out of a RSB or maybe it is on the Alta web page. But, in a nutshell here is what you do:

-Jack the car up. Put it on jack stands.
- Remove the rear wheels,
- Remove the rear shocks/springs. One bolt at the bottom and 2 at the top.
- Remove 3 of the 4 bolds holding on the subframe. Leave one bolt (either the one closest to the driver's or passenger's seat) in place, but loosen it almost all the way (that will keep the sub frame aligned for reassembly.
- Disconnect the top of the sway bar link to the suspension.
- Remove the swaybar clamps - four bolts. If this is an older car, soak them really well from the underside with some rust buster.
- Remove the old sway bar going in the direction of the side that still has the bolt in place on the sub frame.
- Wrap some teflon tape round the new sway bar where the clamps will go.
- Reassemble.
- Be careful not to cross thread any bolts.
- Done in <3 hrs if all goes well.

It's decided.
 

Tuesday, my day off, will be swaybar installation day come hell or high-water.

Unless it rains.

And if completely necessary, I will take one of my other cars to the auto parts store. I just hope nothing breaks...:cool:

Has anyone done this without a spring compressor, just jacking up the rear hub to put it in place?

As Nick mentioned here some guides don't address it at all, some say use one, others say it might not be needed...

There is a nut on the top of the strut. This is hidden when the strut is pushed up in place.

For ~30 bucks buy a spring compressor from Harbor Freight or borrow one from Advanced Auto or one of those places. It is not worth it to have something come loose trying something else.

A loaner spring compressor is doable. I'll need to youtube some instructionals... never used one before and I know they can be dicey.

Just keep it pointed away from your face. You'll be fine with one. The rears are pretty easy to do.

I'm about to tackle this project as well. Curious as to what other parts I may need for suspension.
I have camber plates, struts, springs...
but am I missing and bushings, bump stops, where the spring sits and anything else??

Just to be clear, you only need strut compressors when taking struts _apart_ - not out of a vehicle.

Pretty sure you only need them for the fronts, but I'd use them in the rears to be safe.

Again, you don't need to take struts apart for a RSB.