I have about 5,000 miles on my MINI. I've thought about going ahead and changing the oil before the 1st maintenance. But not sure if I should. I was wanting more input from others that have been here. I want this car to last a long time, and I've always been **** about keeping the oil changed in my other cars. The result of that has been very good, but now I'm dealing with a new machine and a different type of oil. No more 3,000 mile oil changes, which is crazy to me. Anyway, how many of you waited the full 10,000 miles before the 1st oil change. Did your car blow up? Was there anything else I need to know?

How about if you changed before the 10,000 mark. I've never had a car this low to the ground. Does it make it up ramps without dragging, etc.? What kind of filter do I need? (good brands...where can I get them?) Any quirks I need to know about? For instance, my other car claims to need 4 quarts, but it actually only takes 3.5 quarts to fill it up. So, if I took it someplace for an oil change, they would almost always fill it past the full line on the dipstick.(even if I told them to only put 3 and a1/2 quarts in) It was a pain in the behind. Anyway, I would appreciate any advice. Thanks.

-Seth

 

So are you saying you don't believe BMW knows what they are doing?

Before 500 ppl tell you what they did ... just do a search and you will find about 500 threads on this subject

For the executive summary ... Some do. Some don't

Its up to you

 

There are a few quirks about the MINI's oil change. First, you will need a 36mm socket to unscrew the oil filter. Jack it up from the frame rail (under the black plastic). Put a thin piece of wood between the jack and the plastic so it distributes the load. Don't worry, there is metal behind that plastic. Put jackstands under the front two jacking blocks. Open the filler cap and go under and unscrew the drain bolt. Then start on the filter. I use a 1/2" drive Caftsman rachet and 36mm socket. There's enough room to get one click on the rachet. Unscrew it until you hear it break suction (or you see oil start draining out of the drain bolt again). Give it a couple minutes before you unscrew it anymore. This gets most of the oil out of the canister so you don't drip it all over the place when trying to get the canister out. Once out, pull the filter out and pop a new one in. Also, replace the rubber seal. Getting the canister back in can be a pain because of the way the canister threads were cut. Basically, it's very easy to crossthread. The way I do it is to push the canister as far down as I can as I start screwing it in. If it starts fine and then suddenly stops after a 1/8 turn, then it's probably crossthreaded. You will be able to feel the distance between each side of the canister and the engine. If all sides of the canister feel life they are the same distance off, then your good to put the socket on and start racheting it back on. The MINI takes 4.5 quarts and it might even take a little more.

I use OEM filters as I don't want to take chances with the canister design. NAPA filters are good quality if you don't want OEM. Also, DO NOT take it up to a quickie shop to change the oil. Do it yourself or let the dealer do it...unless you know a shop that has experience on MINI's.

Oh, and I changed my oil at 5k.

 

As to your questions about changing the oil:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ead.php?t=4928

 

A lot of us change our oil every 5,000 miles. While under warranty, we pay for the interim oil changes. I think it is a small expense to pay for peace of mind. JMHO.

 

Ever wonder why BMW specs an engine oil change (as well as a transmisison fluid/oil and differential oil change) (that they pay for) at the post break-in period (1,250 miles/2,000 kms) for the E46 M3? Here's a little known secret - because there are metal particles thrown off during the break-in period.... Now, for the lesser beings (which includes the MINI), BMW is rolling the dice on things not getting too screwed up and punting on a post break-in service. If you want to take really good care of your car, I would suggest that you do an oil and filter change before too long. If you doubt that metal particles are being thrown off, send a sample of your old oil to an oil analysis laboratory. You will be amazed at the results that come back. P.S.: There will be metal particles in the sample results....

 

The oil change is a piece of cake. I did it early like you are thinking about. I couldn't sleep nights going all that many miles without a change.

The oil filter housing is located up top. Get a 36mm (impact) socket (black) from an automotive parts store. If your car is like mine, you'll be able to remove the filter housing with it, but not complete the re-install. I had to cut the socket's length by half in order to obtain the necessary clearance to re-install. I cut my socket in half using a grinder wtih an 8 inch wheel.

I got the replacement filter at a Mini dealer so no one could tell I made a change. I'm going for my "free" oil filter change soon at the dealership that sold the car to me.

You'll have to jack the car up to access the drain bolt.

 

Or, use a set of ramps (Rhino Ramps is one product; there may be others). With Rhino Ramps, there is plenty of room under the car to access the drain bolt.

 

Well, or me - its what the MFG requires. They control the warranty, so as long as I do what they say - I'm safe.

My 99 Lexus was every 5k
My 05 Element was every 5k
My 06 Ridgeline was per the maint minder. 1st one at 4500, 2nd at 11700, my 2nd oil change had more highway miles, unsure if that was the reason for the larger span.

my 2 cents - and I still can't wait if mine to get here..

 

ANSWER: change it! as others have suggested, do a quick search on this forum...
In short, the BMW bean counters beat out the Engineers...

 

All the above posts are spot on. I changed the oil at 2800 miles. I did discover that the OEM oil filter has a plastic internal plastic frame that prevents it from collapsing. Some other non oem brands do not. The rhino ramps work great. And above all do not overfill. The book says 5 quarts. In reality 4.7 quarts works. Watch out for cross threading the cannister and you don't have to relpace the drain plug each time--according to our SA. Next change will be at the service schedule. Good luck.

 

One trick that makes putting the canister on without cross threading is to preinstall the filter over the post first to streach the mounting point. Then remove the filter and put it in the canister and then reinstall. This helps to be able to push the filter in and start the threads without cross threading.
When draining the oil, as others have said, just loosen the filter enough to break the seal and wait a few moments until the oil stops draining. Doing it this way I don't spill a drop from the filter area.
I use a 36mm socket from sears and do not have any clearance problems.
As far as when to change the oil, use your own judgement, I did mine after 1000 miles and will continue to do it every 3000 miles on my GP. It can't hurt anything and it's cheap insurance.
Steve
.

 

A interesting article about oil change intervals. http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/?p=2945

Love to read The Truth About Cars.


IMO, modern engine design using unleaded gasoline with synthetic oil will go the long haul on 15-18k oil changes. BMW has a lot of data to back it up, and have been doing it for a lot longer than the existence of our little car.

It will be the water pump and head gasket that will kill your engine, and be costly repairs.

 

sure, Oil can last beyond the 3K miles. Big whoop!!! It's the filter element I'm worried about. While I'm at it, I might as well change the oil too.. Incredible. We pay 25-27K for a car, and chinse out with cheap insurance.

I change out my oil after break-in. And then every 7,500 miles. (I use GC FULL synthetic. Not the dino cracked stuff...)

Live long and prosper.....

 

And once again TTAC hits it right on the head. If you want to change your oil and feel good about it, then to spend your money ... its yours to spend.

But its a total waste ... MINIs 10K change is nothing these days. Jiffy Lube just wants to make money.

3K oil changes went out the windows the day synthetics were created. But go ahead and spend the money ... and while doing that ...

Find ONE ... just ONE MINI cooper whose engine has failed due to ... following the car makers manual.

Please find just ONE car because THAT would be some proof positive that BMW dont know squat:impatient

 

ffff.... "forget" Jiffy Lube. they ain't getting my business. Just scan Google with Jiffy Lube, you'll see the point. (not trying to hijack the thread, nor your point. Noted. You're one of the folks who wish to go "full term" with their oil. Cool, I respect that).

I'm happy with changing out my oil with FULL synthetic. German Castrol, at every 7,500 miles. Autozone sells it. Look on the back of the jug, it'll say "made in Germany".

Oil can last for a bit, but can your filter element????

peace bro.

 

Stupid question here:

I just performed my first oil change yesterday. And now after rading everyone's posts about crossthreading, I am all freaked out thinking I could have possibly crossthreaded my canister (yeah, I know, sounds like a personal problem )

What is the easiest way to check to see if I crossthreaded my canister? It seemed to go on fine with my ratchet. And, I have checked for leaks, and seen not a one....

 

If it was crossthreaded it would be blowing out all like a faucet. And if it were crossthreaded you probably wouldn't have gotten eve a full turn tightening it on. So from your description, I'd say you are OK.

Rich

 

Exactly. you'd be torquing rather hard with the wrench too! sounds like you're fine. No oil leaks, A-ok. just run your hand around the cannister, (after the engine has been running for a bit). No leaks, all is well.

 

Changed mine at 2.2k miles. and since, one change between dealer required changes. I use Redline 5w30 oil.

 

For those that don't drive many miles per year you can change oil once a year. The dealership in my area often does this free and doesn't wait until the dash lights indicate an oil change.

For the rest of us that do any kind of performance driving we change about every 4000-5000 miles using only synthetic oil. Oil filter and O ring are changed everytime oil is changed.

The dealership uses Castrol synthetic.

The rest of us use a variety of brands-
Royal Purple
Redline
Amsoil
Mobil 1
Etc...

It's good to check your oil level about once a month or so.

 

I'm going to need to think about this. The dealer is a good hour and a half away, so getting my hands on an oil filter might be tricky. If it's not going to kill my car, I might just wait the full 10,000. I'll sleep on it a few nights. Thank you for the comments.

 

If getting a replacement oil filter is holding you back from changing the oil and filter, have you considered mail-order? MiniMania (only as an example; there are other vendors that stock replacement filters) stocks replacement oil filters: http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NM.../InvDetail.cfm This link is for a complete kit including the filter, 36mm socket and drain plug. Availability is not a reason to defer maintenance.

 

I waited......

 

Not a problem. You can mail order for the spare oil filter and O ring from Classic Auto campus or other NAM vendors.
http://outmotoring.com/mini_cooper_m...nce_items.html

Once you have the oil filter (paper) and O ring then you just need 5 quarts of your choice of fully synthetic oil and you can go to any oil change place. Sometimes I go to Goodyear near my work place and drop off everything with them and a coupon I get in the mail for oil change for $19.95.

They do the oil change using my stuff and they charge me $14.95 which is worth my time.

They seem happy to do it. I guess they like my MINI.