+1. My personal experience is that even the GM products (if properly maintained) will last for 10 years/100,000 miles. GM is even offering a 5 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty on their current crop of new cars.

 

I've decided to change it. I realized today when I turned the MINI on that I'm not suppose to go in for my first maintenance for another 6,000 miles or so. That means that I'll be waiting until close to the 12,000 mile mark. After a small weekend road trip, I'm approaching 6,000 miles. I think I'll feel better if I can get this first oil change done. After reading the Mobil 1 test results posted earlier, I'm convinced that I'll probably do it every 10,000 miles once this first change is out of the way. I ordered the filter kit off of MiniMania. Thanks for the helpful comments. It looks like frequent oil changes are a thing of the past.

 

Just a quick thought. That Mobil 1 test showed that there is more wear in the first 3 months after an oil change. I thought about it and began to wonder if the first 3,000 miles of a synthetic's life wears more on the engine than 3,000 miles with a non-synthetic. I guess what I'm asking is, does anyone know of any tests that compare wear and tear of synthetics vs. non-synthetics? Normal oil being changed every 3,000 vs. a synthetic being changed every 10,000. Which one is actually better on the engine? Not that I would ever use a non-synthetic in the MINI...I'm just curious.

 

Here is a link to something I posted in another thread enjoy.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...3&postcount=14

Happy Motoring.

- KP

 

This is 2007 not 1957!

 

Every 15k miles with filter changes every 5k it is then. I was thinking about changing it all at 30kmiles, so I can have my oil changes at nice even intervals.

 

I don't need some fancy reports to illustrate the fact that car's today are a lot different and don't last as long. Personal experience has been with both imports and GM's (Early 80's+).

And to drive home the point that today's car companies don't want the car to last 50 years (including MINI) I will mention the fact that we also own and drive (long distances even), a 1957 VW that still has an original 57 engine and trans in it. And as a rule the oil on that vehicle gets changed as often as the valves are done, about every 3K.

 

2006jcw,

Wow, talk about anecdotal evidence and grand asumptions.

Cars today don't last as long? As long as cars from when? And just when is ''today?' The early '80s is 'today?!' Cars from the 'early '80s were just beginning to become long-term-competent. And that's mainly Japanese cars. American cars from that time? Generally crap. Don't just take my word for it. Dig up some old car mags from back then. They weren't particularly impressed with American offerings at the time. Foriegn cars, even as far back as the 70s (Toyota, Datsun, VW, to name a few) and the '60s (mainly VW in the U.S.), could routinely go over 100k miles with only regular maintenance - something many American cars couldn't hope to aspire to. Percentage-wise, more of the total number of cars based on the various models produced last longer than an any other time in history, all maintenance-issues being equal (which they never are).

Cars have not gotten worse over time. They have gotten better. Here's some anecdotal evidence. '79 Rabbit: 98k miles when it was totalled. Ran perfectly with regular maintenance. '81 Civic: ran perfectly at 90k miles when it was creamed. '95 Saturn: ran perfectly at 88k miles when I sold it. As you can see, anecdotal evidence really means next to nothing. It just means that I had some good cars (until I either wrecked or sold them).

How many cars, even original VWs, have lasted 50 years? How does the fact that you have a 50 year old car drive home the point that the company that produced it (or any other company, for that matter) didn't want it to last that long? I don't see the connection.

If I have misunderstood any of what you wrote, please feel free to clear it up. Thanks.

Zip

 

The emission control warranty is going to shortly be required to be extended to 120 months/100,000 miles (change in the U.S. Federal law). What do you think that will do for longevity of the engine?

 

Great article KPMINI! That’s exactly what I was wondering. As far as cars lasting longer today...it's like comparing apples and oranges. Cars use to be easy to work on, and Saturday mechanics could handle a lot of jobs that we can't in present day. Today, things are more complicated. Either way, a car will last as long as the owner wants it to last. The big question is how much money and time are you willing to spend on a car. I have a Hyundai that I'm about to sell. It's costing me quite a bit in repairs, and it's about to go back into the shop for more work. That's after having the master cylinder and the slave cylinder replaced about 300 miles back. In reality it would be cheaper to keep making repairs on my old Hyundai than to buy a new car (the MINI), but it's more trouble than that cars worth. Plus, I just plain don't need that car since I have the MINI...and I'm single and all. Anyway, my point is, if my Hyundai were a 1957 VW, I wouldn't mind spending money to have it repaired, but it's not. It's a Hyundai Accent; it served its function as an economy car, and it will probably never be a classic...well, I have my doubts. LOL

Anyway, I think I have everything I need for the oil change. I bought Castrol Syntec (Full Synthetic) 5W-30. I know that MINI recommends Castrol. I want to use the same stuff that the dealer will use. I've heard it's bad to change the type of oil you use over and over again. Is this the right stuff? Is 5W-30 okay? When you're using regular oil and changing it every 3,000, it's easy to put 5W-30 in during the winter and 10W-30 in during the summer, but this oil will be there until this summer...at least that long. Will the 5W-30 still be okay? Thank you for all your comments.

 

Hey MiniSupermini,

Are you having as much fun with your thread as I am? Look at where this has taken you?

FWIW, I top off my OEM oil with Castrol 5-30w. I've toyed with buying the damned 36mm (or whatever) socket and DIY 5K changes... but really, I'm with Chows... I'd rather spend my money (and time) elsewhere. I've leased my last 4 cars, and so I wasn't as neurotic about their care. But now that I own my current MCS which, for better or worse, I've felt compelled to take "better care" of it. Hence, more time spent within the virtual world of NAM while determining, like you, whether I should go by the book, or "be wiser than the Mini engineers" and change the oil more frequently.

I think of myself as a recovering DIY weekend mechanic, and currently, it suits me just fine to spend the extra time and money doing things like catching a matinee movie... or consuming some rum-raison ice cream at the corner ice-cream parler, rather than searching for a nearby oil recovery/recycle center to responsibly dispose the DIY oil-change left-overs.

 

My two week old MCS just turned 1000 miles today, and come 5k I will change out the oil only because of possible metal debris from the factory.

Does anybody know if BMW puts in some type of additive at the factory to help with breakin. People mention this over and over that Honda does this on the Honda Element forum that I am a part of.

 

No special break-in oil or additive used in the Mini. Much posted as to which is the best oil: Redline, Mobil 1, Royal Purple, etc. Take your pick

 

and add German Castrol to the list as well. (Sold at AutoZone's). Good stuff!

 

The oil and filter along with the socket and new drain plugs are really cheap insurance. I did my first change at 1450 miles just after the breakin miles and then again at 5000, each time the oil was darker than new. Time spent for changing the oil, 30 minutes tops. Can't catch a movie in that time, and the piece of mind is well worth it. Factory says 10,000 first then 15,000 after than. That's way too long IMHO.

 

Actually, the factory fill does have a molly component in it. While not "special" it is interesting. Possibly a cheaper means by which to approach some of the film/strength of full synthetic's like Redline, Amsoil, & RP... As for Mobil 1, you can't use that brand anylonger with the assumption of full synth... now have blends too. Why? one can only guess.

Re: German Castrol (green) have heard many good things about this oil. Is a fave of members on the Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG) website/forums. Anyone who's interested in oil, service life and WAY more... BITOG is likely more than you will ever want or need.

 

I suggest that you read before you do this again...

 

Well, I changed the oil today, and I must say, that had to be the hardest oil change I've done. Everything was fine up to the point where I had to put the filter back on. I didn't think I was going to get that thing back in place. It started getting dark, and my arm was getting sore from reaching down in there so long. That's not an easy task. Another weird thing is that as I was pulling up onto the ramps, I stalled the engine. Well, when I went to start it back up, it turned over for a good 4 seconds before starting...which scared me a bit. I've never had a car that didn't start right up everytime you turned the key.(I guess I've been lucky.) Should I be concerned? It's been started about 5 times since then and has started with ease everytime. Could that have been a fluke?

 

You probably flooded the engine when you stalled it on the ramps. Thats no biggie. Next time you change your oil, with out the filter housing, push the filter onto the the engine, remove it and press the other end into the filter housing. Will make it easier to thread the housing back onto the block. Don't forget to lube the "O" ring with some fresh oil first.

 

This tip was on one of the threads about doing the filter replacement. "Pre-fitting" definitely is the trick. With pre-fitting the filter, the filter housing spins right on with no fumbling.

 

I ain't drinking the Bimmer Kool-aid... to each his own. I'll change my oil at every 7,500 miles. (using the good GC stuff).

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ght=oil+change

 

Just to emphasize a little on changing the oil, Here is a link to a guy who did an oil analysis on a new 3 series. He followed the computers suggested interval and ended up changing his oil at 19k miles (I would be doing the same interval if I followed the OBC). He did an oil analysis of the oil and they found dangerous levels of almost every metal and deplete levels of almost every additive. Even more scary is the fact that they say the filter may have been in bypass for 10-15k miles and the oil had thickened to a 40 weight.

Now this was factory fill oil so we can assume the oil had higher than normal levels of some metals just from break-in. But still, BMW doesn't recommend changing it any sooner.

Take it as you may but this is just another reason to change your oil more regularly than MINI suggests. If you do plan on extending intevals past 8 or 10k, get an oil analysis done to see if the oil has enough additive left.

 

First most people don't go 19k on their MINIs before the first oil change, even following the OBC recommendations. The typical interval for the first oil change seems to be around 11-14k miles.

Second, those element concentrations look high when compared to the "universal average" column because, let's face it, most people don't go 19k between oil changes. The "universal average" numbers are just that - averages. They're not limits.

If you look at the "properties" part of the report, viscocity, flashpoint, fuel dilution, antifreeze dilution, water dilution and isoluble percentages are all within the recommended ranges. The fuel dilution is particularly good, which is probably because of the air filter having less than 20k miles on it.

The high-pressure additives are still present, showing that the oil wasn't depleted even after almost 20k miles. In fact, the zinc and phosphorus numbers are pretty close to the universal average, which is pretty impressive since most of the samples that Blackstone tests probably don't have 19k miles on them.

The report said that two quarts of "make-up" oil were added during the 19k interval. I'd like to know how early or late in the interval the make-up oil was added.

 

It looks like he edited out Dyson's comments. There were way too many "excessive" and "depleted" marks in the comment section to say the oil was ok. There may have been some high points (like coolant and fuel) but wear was high.

As for the OBC, mine starts out around 15k when I reset it but by the time it's down to zero, I'm around the 20k mark. I personally do 8k mile oil changes.

 

Love how you guys are trying to justify your actions with shock and awe... Problem is, you didn't read the entire thread and follow the links.

Here is another post from the same style engine at 1500 miles...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...42&postcount=1

The levels at on that blackstone report are not bad, just a used up oil. Personally I don't think that I would run 19K miles over 18 months without a change but to each is own. I still think that 10K is an acceptable number on todays synthetics, but that number will change from engine to engine.

I still say that you can run above 5K miles with no problem and if you are changing it before that, you are wasting money and resources. I may just bump that to 8K soon...