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Anyone replaced the AC expansion valve on an R56 Cooper?

Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Anyone replaced the AC expansion valve on an R56 Cooper?

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Old 05-17-2019, 04:17 PM
Lex2008
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Anyone replaced the AC expansion valve on an R56 Cooper?

The book says it's a 2 hour job but I saw a video showing the entire dash needs to come out

Anyone done this job?

A
 
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Old 05-19-2019, 01:09 PM
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mkov608
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Yes I have. I though my was sticking, so I changed it while I had the cylinder head off to repair a leaking head gasket. The expansion valve comes out from the front side of the firewall behind the engine. You do not need to pull the dash out.

Here's a link to the instructions:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...ements/4TFxtti

So, why do you think yours is defective?
 
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Old 05-19-2019, 05:53 PM
Lex2008
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Hey bro,

Did u need a special tool to remove per the Bentley manual? Or can you just yank it out?

160k miles on my 2008. AC blowing warmish, 55-60F coldest it gets. Had the system evacuated and recharged to specs and its still blowing warm.

Today at 88F and 50% humidity readings were 50 on highside and 30 on low side. No faults in IHKS system.

I dont know if its the expansion valve, or drier or compressor (yes the clutch engages and its turning).
 
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Old Yesterday, 12:35 AM
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If I remember correctly, there are two Torx screws that hold it on. If you get one, don't forget to order the o-rings; they didn't come with my valve, and not all o-rings are alike.

However, before you break into your system again. You may have the same problem I did.

You'll need a Foxwell diagnostic scanner (I'd recommend the NT520), but it will pay for itself quickly. With the scanner, you can bring up the temperature at the evaporator core under the DME (Digital Motor Electronics, Temperature Menu) sub-menu. Yes, MINI engineers put a temp sensor on the evaporator core. You'll also need a good quality temperature gauge that you can clip to the one of the registers.

With the temperature gauge clipped to the register, and your new scanner plugged into your OBDII port (evap temp parameter on the display), go for a drive with the AC on and the fan on high. In my case, the evap core temp went down, but the discharge air temp went up. This was all caused by a faulty temperature selector potentiometer which wasn't closing the blend air door all the way. Full closed is 8%, and mine was stuck on 14% when in the full cold position; I confirmed the temperature control flap position with flex scope. This allowed hot air from the heater core to mix with the air coming from the evaporator core. So, when I changed the expansion valve, nothing changed.
 
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