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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
OK, mi amigos. I'm replacing the clutch in my R53 and I have one bellhousing bolt that's almost impossible to reach (just below the backside of the head). It's accessible topside in the engine bay but completely covered up by the thermo housing, wiring and various brackets (all of which I've removed to this point). In particular, there is an "octopus" wiring loom (see pics - pic 1 is is the wiring loom; pic 2 is where it's attached in the rear just below the electrical connection) that I can't figure out how to remove. It's affixed front and back. The front is a simple nut removal. The back attachment is a mystery but it appears that it's held in by some type of plastic press clip (into a metal bracket). It's the last obstacle before I can remove the trans. Has anyone run into this before and, if so, how do I get access to that last bellhousing bolt? Thanks in advance.
P.S. I absolutely love this car but what a PITA to work on!
#rkw, thanks for the info. This is the same as contained in my Bentley manual but unfortunately provides no detail on removing that %$#(^% wiring loom. I'm out today looking for a short 15mm socket and short breaker bar in the hope that allows me to access the bolt.
Didn't browse all the results, but did find this tidbit:
pnwR53S wrote:
Before you can disconnect the gearbox from the engine there is one pesty bolt that is hidden behind the infamous octopus of the engine harness. You have to remove a steel bracket and the MAP or IMAP sensor near it. Be very gentle or else you can break expensive things.
Hello, again. Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for the advice. I finally removed that last bellhousing bolt (top) by purchasing a short 15mm socket and a 12" breaker bar. That was the only thing I could get in such a small space (beneath a metal bracket). Finally manhandled the transmission out today only to find that someone had stripped a reverse Torx bolt (1 of 6) holding the pressure plate to the flywheel. I ended up having to grind that one off but it was no loss because the new Valeo kit came with new bolts (normal, 6-sided metric thank goodness). Took a break, cleaned up and will install the new rear main seal and flywheel/clutch/pressure plate tomorrow . Then we'll see how long it takes to wiggle the transmission back in place and get the top motor mount aligned and bolted in. The clutch disc was worn to the rivets so I'm really looking forward to a non-slipping, spirited drive. To those who haven't done a clutch install, it's not overly complicated but it is very time-consuming.
Clutch update: I finally got the transmission back in today. I was able to remove it by myself but it is most definitely a 2-man job to get it back in. There is no pilot bearing so aligning the clutch spline to the disc is a major PITA and requires an incredible amount of finagling, turning the crank, lifting, repositioning, jacking, etc. If you swap your clutch, do yourself a favor and buy two/three M12x120mm cap bolts to thread through the trans into the block to help align it before mating them up (be sure you have the threads all the way through the mounting holes on the block). I installed a Valeo flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate package and my clutch pedal is substantially softer than the clutch I replaced (MINI). The slave cylinder and pivot arm on the trans appear to be working properly when the clutch pedal is pressed so that makes me believe there's no bleeding problem in the slave cylinder. Before I reinstall upper motor mount, axles, etc., I would like to get feedback from those who have installed a single-mass Valeo clutch to know if they also found the clutch pedal much easier to push. Anyone?
03-24-2019, 10:56 AM
