Flywheel to crank bolts "feel" stripped
 

Hi all,

Does anyone have experience with the flywheel bolts or crankshaft threads stripping when you torque them down? I'm in the middle of a clutch replacement on my '08 Clubman non-S and am at the point where I'm torquing the bolts to mount the new flywheel on the crankshaft. It's a Luk flywheel and I'm using the existing bolts. I cleaned the old threadlocker off of them with a wire brush.

When I get up to around 60 lbs, I feel like the bolts are turning too much to make it to the proper torque setting of 66. I've had bolts snap on me before, and this just feels like a couple of the bolts are going to snap or just start spinning in a stripped hold on the crank. I can remove the bolts and get them back up to 60, but getting to 66 feels like they're turning too much and are going to strip.

Am I just being paranoid? The clutch I took out was a Valeo, so someone has previously done a replacement, so I wonder if they stripped some bolts when doing that one.

Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks,
Nick

This is what i found for you

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...ywheel/5uuPuo7

You MUST replace the bolts and use loctite. They are TTY (or stretch bolts if you like) and will have already reached their tolerance. Try new bolts and you may find they hold well.

Thanks to both of you - I asked about the bolts when I was ordered parts and was told that I could re-use them. I'll order new ones.

And I've seen a couple different places online that say 66 ft=lbs for torquing the bolts. From what I can see from MiniToBe's answer, it appears the procedure is 30Nm and then 90 degrees for final torque. Does that sound right to everyone? Just want to make sure I get this right before closing her up.

Thanks again,
Nick

That would be like 23 ft lbs no? Seems weak, but an extra 90 degrees is a LOT....which might stretch them enough as noted by the others. Sounds like a decent plan to me.

give it a try. then put ur torque wrench on it and see what that tells u. it mite be 66Ft/lbs.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...10b1ed4f2a.jpg
1. Tighten each bolt to 8nm
2. Tighten each bolt to 30nm
3. Tighten an aditional 1/4 of a turn (90 degrees) ***do not re-use bolts

Be careful with the internet, a lot of early torque specifications were later changed by Bentley and MINI dealers. I hope thus helps.

Hi all,

Sorry to drag this out, but I don't want to make a mistake that's going to cause me huge problems down the road.

Does that torque spec apply to the bolts I'm buying from Pelican parts? I have 6 of them, part number 11-22-7-560-062-M26.

I really hate there TTY bolts; I always feel like I'm going to strip them. Thanks for the information.

Nick

Don't worry, I know how you feel. Yes, torque applies to those bolts and if they came with the blue color as pictured, that is thread lock. Do not apply more to it. Just torque them as specified. Keep us posted, good luck.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...7291964e41.jpg
I know Haynes isn't the best manual around but it helps.

OP, Where you able to get the flywheel bolts from Valeo flywheel ? I 'm doing an engine swap on a Gen1 R53. The Valeo flywheel bolt is half the length of the Original MINI bolt
I wanted to use new bolt, but have no idea where to get it from

I got the bolts from Pelican Parts, and was able to get them torqued according to the specs secondhandr55 posted. I used the stock Mini bolts with no issues.

Thanks for the quick reply! I appreciate it.

In my case the Genuine MINI bolts I bought doesn't fit; way too long. (btw, this is a Gen1 car). It's a shame that Valeo do not sell anything other than their kit.
At this point my options are limited to either buy a new Valeo clutch kit or use the old bolts :(