My 2010 Mini Cooper S stopped running while driving. No Voltage to the pump. Pump works fine when given 12V. I checked the main blue/white wire to it and didn't see any damage to it between the pump and the fuse box. When I give power to straight to the blue/white wire at the fuse box it turns on (connects to fuse box at A). I checked the fuel pump relay and it seems fine. Fuse is fine. I jumped the relay terminals (from B to D, and also from any 12V to D), and it didn't turn on the pump (like it should have). So I'm thinking there is a problem in the fuse box between the relay terminals and where the fuel pump power leaves the fuse box (A). The only other strange thing is that the relay signal input (E) - the one the supplies the electricity to close the relay - is always on, even with the key out. Maybe I'm misunderstanding something but I am thinking it should only supply voltage when the relay needs to complete the circuit to the fuel pump and that is only when the fuel pump should be running.

Let me know what you think, I wanted to hear other people's thoughts before I pay for a new junction box and then pay to have it programmed to my car. Thanks!

 

That is not the fuel pump relay. The relay is soldered to the backplane (inside the Fuse box or JBE). Going through that right now. If the fuel pump runs when you apply 12V's then you may need a new JBE. I'm trying to work around getting a new one by installing a relay outside the fuse box. There is one problem, the DME controls the pump on/off because there is no fuel pressure regulator in Mini's. I jumpered the pump to run continuously and burned it out.

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...l-pump/cpOA4eI

There is a switch on the top left of the drawing which controls when that hot line that energizes the relay , goes to ground. That's how the contact gets closed. Need to find a way to work the external relay I'm installing to work with that switch (30G).

 

 

Quick update on my fuel issues. I just got the DW65V sold by Detroit tuned.This pump is bigger that the stock one. So, some modifications needed to be done to get this to fit. Has to take the assembly disassembled in order to get the pump out of the assembly. The sleeve that carries the stock pump has to be cut to split it to accommodate the size of the new ump then a hose clamp installed around it to secure it to the sleeve. Make sure to adjust height to clear the bottom of the assembly. Remove the orange flap/valve from the bottom to allow the assembly to fill with fuel. The old filter sock I cut out and made it flat to fit around the new pump inlet. If you look at the correct application (Golf/Jetta) the filter for the pump is outside the assembly so there is no filter that attaches to the pump. The way I did it works well, with another hose clamp to secure that sock around the inlet of the pump.The leads will need to be soldered to the new pump. The fuel line, I had to cut at the fitting that plugs into the stock pump because I couldn't pull it out. No big deal because I could push it right on and put a hose clamp on that line. Re-installed everything and the car started right up. Will keep posted.

 

Reading up on this thread and determining that our 2010 had, amongst other issues, the fuel pump relay had gone out. So, I dug into it and figured out how to eliminate the relay inside the JBE and install an external relay. And I got it done and working. I wrote it all up and will post the instructions when I get a chance to fully review them. But there is an answer. And it just cost me time. I stole the relay out of a microwave.

 

Can't wait to read your solution to this design flaw built in to the JBE, any other vehicle it's a plug and play relay replacement. I have a 2010 MCS that I had to replace the fuse box to get back on the road, what a pain to replace a cheap every day part. IT"S A RELAY

 

Thanks for your contribution. Just wondering when are you going to share what you did. We will appreciate it.

 

I have the same problem and was looking for the solution you mentioned. Is it this one?

 

I also found this YT video, which describes how to replace the relay itself

 

OR, maybe it is this one

https://gethypoxic.com/blogs/technic...ertible-mcs-06

 

@rajdude, Have you inspected your JBE (fuse box)? Do your connectors to the JBE show signs of corrosion (green tint) on the external pins? You may want to get an identical module from ebay and swap it in for testing purposes.

I went down a rabbit hole with my JBE and I wasn't happy about it either! I had it cut the pins apart from the boards and it looked horrible after soldering it back together. I mean, it looked like a cold solder joint just waiting to happen after a few bumps in the road. I wound up using an ebay sourced JBE that was within 2 weeks of production from my original unit.

The "wiring diagram" in the Bentley manual sucks rotten eggs too. It only shows you the specific circuit instead of showing you the entire fuel system.

In my circumstance, I was chasing a crank but no start issue. As it turned out, my valves weren't fully closed as a result of oil coking and caused compression leaks. Thank you direct injection! I had to remove the cylinder head to verify no damage occurred in the combustion chamber and that my valves were straight.

I also had an issue with the fuel pump because I changed the fuel filter (during the head job described above). It worked for a bit but I had a gasket that wasn't sealing properly and caused fuel leaks. After repairing the gasket, no fuel was delivered to the engine. My solution was to remove the entire fuel filter and pump assembly. I tested each component external to the car, then tested the entire subsystem external to the car. I then reinstalled the fuel pump/filter assemblies into the tank and it worked again.

 

Hi George,
Thanks for chiming in here. I was starting a new thread, but maybe I can post my problem here. So yes, I inspected the JBE. I do not see corrosion, but every time the car dies like this (second time now) there is a strong burning smell. Last time the smell came and the car died on the road side, I was able to start it. But now it does not start at all. Today I traced the smell to the JBE. I guess it is the fuel relay getting burnt. Here are the errors I am getting in the DME.




The fuel pump errors are probably from the relay getting burnt. The HPFP error is because the port HPFP is not getting any fuel from the in-tank fuel pump.

I need to check the in-tank fuel pump today, but I do not remember hearing its hum anymore.
The mechanic did replace the HPFP just a month ago. The car is on its third HPFP now :-(
The car is not starting, it used to sputter yesterday, but today it is not even trying to start.

 

Rajdude,

There is a guy from ebay who can repair JBEs. I believe he will also cut the leads between the 2 circuit boards then solders them together. I will have to look up his info but he's out of the LA area. Turnaround time is fairly quick too. I'd recommend giving him a call (once I dig up his info) and asking if he has the ability to swap out the fuel pump relay.

Given your description of the problem, it does sound like your JBE is toast. I would still recommend checking ebay for a similar JBE then swap it in for test purposes. I think I picked mine up for roughly $150.

Have you removed the JBE from the car before? What trim level is your car?

 

well, I looked at the JBE relay replacement videos. I can easily do it myself. I am very good with DIY electronics, soldering and stuff.

But, do we know if other than the relay, something else also dies in the JBE?
I mean why replace the whole JBE?
And no, I have never removed the JBE. The car is a 2011 Mini Clubman S

 

Rajdude,

I too am no stranger to a soldering iron. But this repair is different. You cannot desolder the 2 boards apart from each other. I paid an electronics shop to desolder the boards and they couldn't given their soldering equipment (which is fairly substantial). You HAVE to cut the pins. After you replace the suspect component(s), soldering those cut leads is a royal PITA!

If there is corrosion inside the JBE then you may see cold or broken solder joints. Since you detected a burning smell from the JBE then you may have a bigger problem: burned up solder runs on the board itself. That may require the use of jumper wires. It's hard to say until the internals are inspected for damage. I'd recommend the removal of the JBE, then you can open it up and inspect for damage. Take pics and post here, if you'd like.

So why replace the whole JBE? It's a royal PITA to dig inside, replace any suspect component, and it may or may not work. The troubleshooting procedures are garbage. Even from watching YT videos, the troubleshooting process is a hot mess. Save yourself the aggravation, time, and money. Find a replacement JBE then use it. That's what I did and I'm much happier knowing it works.

Here is a link to the fuel pump relay repair kit. Give this guy a call, I can't remember his name though. I think it begins with an F?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234416530184

 

ok thanks George. Your input is very helpful. I will try to talk to that guy.

You mentioned you replaced the JBE (instead of getting it repaired). That was cheaper, like $150 (as compared to the repair). A quick search on eBay brings many JBEs for around $150. I may want to go that route instead.
How much was the programming and who does it?

 

Rajdude,

That's the beauty behind using a JBE similar to yours. No need for programming. I was fortunate to find one that was made within 2 weeks of my original JBE. If you decide to get yours repaired then it will not need to be reprogrammed.

Here's where info gets lost with the JBE: Some will say that programming IS required and others will say programming is NOT required. Even the Bentley manual doesn't say. I once had a new JBE on back order from ECS Tuning. I contacted them and asked if the new module required programming. They said no. I canceled the back-order because the JBE problem was a red herring. My initial problem was a no-start issue but it was caused by oil coking of the valve train.

My JBE was replaced because during one of my tests, I smoke checked it after going through 2 people for repair (the last repair was the ebay seller). I burned up a couple of solder runs on the board and it rendered it useless.

 

What really pissed me off during the troubleshooting steps was that all indications pointed to the JBE and the fuel pump relay. Once I replaced the JBE with another JBE, I still had the same no-start issue. The electrical troubleshooting steps are less than desired for this car. I suspect the root of the problem stems from the BMW mentality of electronics.

Again, your issue may be different. You could have a bad JBE. Its removal isn't that bad, although you do have to remove some interior trim pieces. Open it then inspect the board as best you can for broken solder joints or burned up solder runs.

 

LoL! man! you are scaring me now :-) What if I also have the same problem. I replace the JBE and the car still does not run.

Well, I think I should test the fuel pump first independently. This guy has some good information on how we could do that.
https://gethypoxic.com/blogs/technic...ertible-mcs-06

I suspect my fuel pump is conked out or at least malfunctioning because the HPFP had to be replaced after just one year of replacement. People say if the in-tank pump does not supply enough fuel or is intermittent, the HPFP conks out, eventually. Maybe the fuel pump is drawing too much current, leading to the relay burning out....but wait, there is a fuse for that. Hmmm.

-Raj

 

rajdude,

You can test the fuel pump independently. It just needs +12V and Ground. When I tested my fuel pump, it was removed from the car. I checked the float level sensors too. I used a Power Probe to test it. In order to test the fuel pump while it is still installed in the car, disconnect the pump from the wiring harness. Do not test the wiring from the pump connector to the JBE using the back probe method with the connector still attached to the pump.

Again, DISCONNECT THE FUEL PUMP CONNECTOR FIRST! Can't stress that enough. Then ONLY test the connector on the fuel pump itself.

Also remember, there are a bunch of relays that affect fuel pump activation. It's more than just checking for a burned up fuse. Again, thanks to BMW for making a simple system hard to troubleshoot. For example, the fuel pump is supposed to run when either driver or passenger door is opened. A relay controls that!

 

thanks for the tips! I will heed to that advice while testing that thing.

Amazing electronics there! Why does the door need to be opened for the fuel pump to run. That is some crazy idea some BMW engineer thought of. Strange.

 

The thought process behind that concept is to prime the fuel system ahead of turning on the ignition. When a door is opened, the mindset is to go drive the car.

So you would have to wait several hours for the pressure to go down before the pump activates again. Like I said, it's a PITA that is written NOWHERE! Thank you, BMW!

After I made this repair, I swore off all future BMW products. They can go to hell in a hand-basket! And I'm being kind with that statement.

 

ok that does make sense (in some way) but the engineer in me could come up with better ways to accomplish the same thing. Furthermore not mentioning this anywhere in the service manual is totally crazy!

Anyway, it is so hot outside. I gotta figure out a way to bring the car into my garage so I can troubleshoot it. I have a sloped driveway.

 

All rightey :-) it is diagnosed and confirmed: Fuel pump is ok. That infernal relay is bad.
If I give 12 volts directly to the fuel pump, it runs fine. Even the car starts without any issues and runs normally. I was able to drive the car into our garage (from the street).

So lets tackle the relay. I am leaning towards jerry rigging a full sized relay in place of the soldered relay. I would destroy that relay, and solder 4 wires to its remains, hook up a full sized relay in a relay socket ...........boom! done ;-) . Looks like there is even free space in the JBE's cover for mounting a relay.
Just like this pic...

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07..._large.jpg?458
from this article: https://gethypoxic.com/blogs/technic...ertible-mcs-06


So how does one take out this JBE? I do not see any mounting screws, or maybe I am blind! LoL
Also the top part of the JBE is hidden behind a small trim panel which is pinched by the glove box. How does that trim part come out?