5 codes and no start condition- 2013 R57
#1
5 codes and no start condition- 2013 R57
Need some help here....again.
Thanks in advance.
2013 base model Mini non turbo - 99K miles - N16 engine
A week or so I replaced the muffler to quiet her down, but she has run great since then. I went to start her yesterday and it barely turned over. Since the battery was 6 years old, I went out and bought a new battery today and installed it. The engine turned over faster, but still a no start. it tries really hard, but not quite enough to get her running. Then I noticed the yellow engine light staying on and an exclamation sign in the center display.
I pulled the codes after seeing the solid yellow engine light. I got:
P15B8
P15B9
P15C8
P15C9
P1063.
I understand the P1063 limp home code, but I don't know the other codes. I didn't get a code for a misfire. I thought that was odd.
I also checked for spark and got a strong spark on #3 and #4, a mild spark on #1 and hardly any on #2. I switched the coil packs on 1 and 2 , and got a bit more spark. So I know I should replace all 4 coil packs for sure.
The plugs are carbon coated and wet. The plugs are only 10K miles old but the coils are original. I'm assuming the fuel pump is working OK.
I checked all the fuses in the fuse box and all are OK. I checked battery cables for secure connections. The positive cable is not the IBS type, it has one crimped connection and one bolt on terminal and all are clean.
what else should I look for?
I don't want to keep replacing parts till I find the problem.
Thanks
Bill
Thanks in advance.
2013 base model Mini non turbo - 99K miles - N16 engine
A week or so I replaced the muffler to quiet her down, but she has run great since then. I went to start her yesterday and it barely turned over. Since the battery was 6 years old, I went out and bought a new battery today and installed it. The engine turned over faster, but still a no start. it tries really hard, but not quite enough to get her running. Then I noticed the yellow engine light staying on and an exclamation sign in the center display.
I pulled the codes after seeing the solid yellow engine light. I got:
P15B8
P15B9
P15C8
P15C9
P1063.
I understand the P1063 limp home code, but I don't know the other codes. I didn't get a code for a misfire. I thought that was odd.
I also checked for spark and got a strong spark on #3 and #4, a mild spark on #1 and hardly any on #2. I switched the coil packs on 1 and 2 , and got a bit more spark. So I know I should replace all 4 coil packs for sure.
The plugs are carbon coated and wet. The plugs are only 10K miles old but the coils are original. I'm assuming the fuel pump is working OK.
I checked all the fuses in the fuse box and all are OK. I checked battery cables for secure connections. The positive cable is not the IBS type, it has one crimped connection and one bolt on terminal and all are clean.
what else should I look for?
I don't want to keep replacing parts till I find the problem.
Thanks
Bill
Last edited by wmsue; 08-17-2018 at 05:59 PM.
#2
update...
Just replaced 3 of the coils but still no start.
I tried spraying a bit of starting fluid down each plug hole and starting, but it made no difference. I checked the fuel pump fuse (#46) and it was good.
I do remember that it ran very rough for a few seconds the last 2 times it started. No backfiring or popping.
The only code I get now is the P1063 since I cleared the others.
suggestions? Should I buy a better scan tool to get the MINI codes? What reader will do the job?
thanks
Bill
Just replaced 3 of the coils but still no start.
I tried spraying a bit of starting fluid down each plug hole and starting, but it made no difference. I checked the fuel pump fuse (#46) and it was good.
I do remember that it ran very rough for a few seconds the last 2 times it started. No backfiring or popping.
The only code I get now is the P1063 since I cleared the others.
suggestions? Should I buy a better scan tool to get the MINI codes? What reader will do the job?
thanks
Bill
Last edited by wmsue; 08-18-2018 at 05:56 PM.
#4
I can do that this week. Since it wasn't backfiring or popping I was thinking the timing wasn't off. But at almost 100K miles the timing chain is overdue being changed.
I'm so much more comfortable working on the old cars than the new ones. But I'm learning.
I'll check my Bentley book on the proper procedure.
thanks
Bill
I'm so much more comfortable working on the old cars than the new ones. But I'm learning.
I'll check my Bentley book on the proper procedure.
thanks
Bill
#5
Some times cars don't give an obvious hint to fix it, but since you spent a good amount of time trying, it would be good to go back to basics to ensure at least the mechanical part is where it should be. After that you would be more comfortable checking each circuit for connectivity and function
The following users liked this post:
wmsue (08-19-2018)
#6
#7
Could you take more pix of the intake camshaft where thr lopes meet the intermediate shaft.
Also, can you verify the timing? Rotate the cramshaft by hand and place something like a screw driver where the locking hole is (next to the muffler).
Lastly, check all the plugs to the camshafts position sensors and crankshaft position sensor in the bottom of the engine where it meets the tranz.
I'll check these codes tomorrow for you.
Also, can you verify the timing? Rotate the cramshaft by hand and place something like a screw driver where the locking hole is (next to the muffler).
Lastly, check all the plugs to the camshafts position sensors and crankshaft position sensor in the bottom of the engine where it meets the tranz.
I'll check these codes tomorrow for you.
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#8
More photos attached of the camshafts and chain.
I put the valve cover back on and did a compression check. Got 100 - 105 lbs. in all 4 cylinders.
I've got a good spark on all plugs. Engine turns over a bit slow, but there is spark.
I've got fuel in the injection distribution tube (pressed schrader valve) and the plugs are damp, checked relay too - so I'm getting fuel.
I checked fuses earlier and made sure all the connections in engine compartment are tight and secure.
I haven't raised the car off the ground yet so I haven't been able to check lower connections or rotate crankshaft. Hope to do that this week. I know that everything is turning because the cams are in a different location then before I did the compression check.
If it were the timing chain, wouldn't the chain show a bit of slack? or more wear on the guides?
Thanks
Bill
I put the valve cover back on and did a compression check. Got 100 - 105 lbs. in all 4 cylinders.
I've got a good spark on all plugs. Engine turns over a bit slow, but there is spark.
I've got fuel in the injection distribution tube (pressed schrader valve) and the plugs are damp, checked relay too - so I'm getting fuel.
I checked fuses earlier and made sure all the connections in engine compartment are tight and secure.
I haven't raised the car off the ground yet so I haven't been able to check lower connections or rotate crankshaft. Hope to do that this week. I know that everything is turning because the cams are in a different location then before I did the compression check.
If it were the timing chain, wouldn't the chain show a bit of slack? or more wear on the guides?
Thanks
Bill
#10
I am having the same problem - no start, but I assumed mine was due to the current weather when it wouldn't turn over (been sitting outside in -25C to -37C for three days). Boosting hasn't helped and neither has letting it thaw overnight in a heated garage, even with a boost and a trickle charger on the battery. Did you determine the cause of your issue?
I'm showing codes P15B8, P15B9, P15C9, and P15C8. It's a 2012 Mini Countryman.
I'm showing codes P15B8, P15B9, P15C9, and P15C8. It's a 2012 Mini Countryman.
#11
It took me quite a while but I dd figure it out.
I had a frozen alternator.
i removed the serpintine belt and the car woukd start fine. The alternator would not spin in both directions.
i found one for about $130 us dollars that was new on Amazon, and it was in stock.
been driving it for a month or so and no problems .
a year before I had this problem, my car sat for 6 weeks without being started. I think that started the problem. I live in snow and ice country, so that didn’t help either.
good luck amd tell me how you made out.
Bill
I had a frozen alternator.
i removed the serpintine belt and the car woukd start fine. The alternator would not spin in both directions.
i found one for about $130 us dollars that was new on Amazon, and it was in stock.
been driving it for a month or so and no problems .
a year before I had this problem, my car sat for 6 weeks without being started. I think that started the problem. I live in snow and ice country, so that didn’t help either.
good luck amd tell me how you made out.
Bill
The following users liked this post:
CBEAI996 (02-06-2019)
#13
It took me quite a while but I dd figure it out.
I had a frozen alternator.
i removed the serpintine belt and the car woukd start fine. The alternator would not spin in both directions.
i found one for about $130 us dollars that was new on Amazon, and it was in stock.
been driving it for a month or so and no problems .
a year before I had this problem, my car sat for 6 weeks without being started. I think that started the problem. I live in snow and ice country, so that didn’t help either.
good luck amd tell me how you made out.
Bill
I had a frozen alternator.
i removed the serpintine belt and the car woukd start fine. The alternator would not spin in both directions.
i found one for about $130 us dollars that was new on Amazon, and it was in stock.
been driving it for a month or so and no problems .
a year before I had this problem, my car sat for 6 weeks without being started. I think that started the problem. I live in snow and ice country, so that didn’t help either.
good luck amd tell me how you made out.
Bill
#15
#16
[QUOTE=Ryanh;4608140]
Hi Ryan,
I had two different problems.
The first problem was the frozen alternator stopping the engine from turning. When I turned the key, nothing happened.
After I replaced the alternator and cleared the codes, all was good.
I removed the serpentine belt and attempted to turn the alternator by hand. It turned fairly easily in one direction but was totally frozen the other direction.
Good Luck
Bill
Hi Ryan,
I had two different problems.
The first problem was the frozen alternator stopping the engine from turning. When I turned the key, nothing happened.
After I replaced the alternator and cleared the codes, all was good.
I removed the serpentine belt and attempted to turn the alternator by hand. It turned fairly easily in one direction but was totally frozen the other direction.
Good Luck
Bill
#17
[QUOTE=wmsue;4608161]
Hi Ryan,
I had two different problems.
The first problem was the frozen alternator stopping the engine from turning. When I turned the key, nothing happened.
After I replaced the alternator and cleared the codes, all was good.
I removed the serpentine belt and attempted to turn the alternator by hand. It turned fairly easily in one direction but was totally frozen the other direction.
Good Luck
Bill
Thanks 🙏🙏. I will be replacing the alternator and see how it goes. This is only happened to the mini when the freezing temperatures started and the car was parked outside.
Hi Ryan,
I had two different problems.
The first problem was the frozen alternator stopping the engine from turning. When I turned the key, nothing happened.
After I replaced the alternator and cleared the codes, all was good.
I removed the serpentine belt and attempted to turn the alternator by hand. It turned fairly easily in one direction but was totally frozen the other direction.
Good Luck
Bill
#18
I am having the same problem - no start, but I assumed mine was due to the current weather when it wouldn't turn over (been sitting outside in -25C to -37C for three days). Boosting hasn't helped and neither has letting it thaw overnight in a heated garage, even with a boost and a trickle charger on the battery. Did you determine the cause of your issue?
I'm showing codes P15B8, P15B9, P15C9, and P15C8. It's a 2012 Mini Countryman.
I'm showing codes P15B8, P15B9, P15C9, and P15C8. It's a 2012 Mini Countryman.
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