All,

I have a 2009 R56S that has been in the driveway for about 2 months. The car was running perfectly fine prior to being parked. We had a really cold spell first three weeks of January 2018 and I didn’t overlooked getting it connected to a battery tender and starting it here and there.

Fast forward to the last two weeks, I attempted to start the car but it would not. It sounds like it cranks over and over, but never gets going. I looked at the battery and it had 04/09 stamped on the negative terminal. The status peep hole was still green. I was able to charge it with the tender over a day and tender showed as charged. Once I attempted again it failed once again. I replaced the battery with a new unit but still no luck. The vehicle / battery does not have the component that requires the smart component, but as a precaution I had the battery tender connected to the terminals of the car as I completed the swap.

I’m looking for suggestions as to what could be the issue. The only gas in the area where I live is 10% ethanol and I thought that the gas may have gone bad in that span of time and with the weather being extremely cold. All of my searches to purge the gas from the lines always come to a gas tank purge through the back seat. Anyone think that the issue is stale gas? Is there a way to purge the gas lines from somewhere in the engine compartment / high pressure line as well?

The HPFP on this car was replaced under warranty 2x prior to reaching 120K. The behavior is not anywhere close to what I recall when the HPFP went bad, but I guess it’s a possibility. Any one have thoughts as to what may be the issue or where I can start with the troubleshooting .

It looks like there is a stored error code because the engine light stays on when the key fob is inserted. I’m looking to read the code this weekend. Or sooner to see if that gives me some insight as well.

As I attempted to start it today ( since it was a bit warmer 52 degrees) it still failed and an exclamation mark appeared on the console display.

Appreciate any insight anyone can share.

Motor On!!!

 

Start with getting a code reader and finding out what the ECU is unhappy about.

OBD2 - Bluetooth modules available for under $20, then $5 for the Torque app and you'll have a tool you'll use many times over.

 

Thanks SquawSkiBum. Any particular OBD2 module that you have used / recommend that may be more inclined towards the Mini make? I’ll look to get one and get the app.

 

I have a generic OBD2 module I got on newegg.com, that was about 5 years ago. ECS Tuning has a tool by Schwaben that will read all the BMW codes, it is $250 if I recall correctly. Lots of threads here about OBD2 readers.

 

I personally use carsoft i910. it also clears airbag lights.

I knew a guy who struggled with this for a while and even replaced the fuel pump. at the end, he flushed out the gas and put fresh one. car started fine.

Might have the same thing and also i would be curious to check the wiring under the hood. 2 months is long enough for rodents to build a nest.

lastly, do you hear the fuel pump priming? did you use quick start?

 

Thanks for your input MiniToBe. I checked under the hood. All visible cabling seems to be sound. I added Stabil to the tank yesterday to see if that helps treat any stale gas. When I open the door I do hear the priming go on for about 3-5 seconds. I’m hoping that a couple of door open/close instances can help purge some of the gas from the fuel line/rails.

I picked up QuickStart ether but I’m not quite sure where the best entry point I’m into the intake would be on the Mini’s. I’ve done that in the past on other cars but usually through the throttle body it air filter cavity.

Do you have any suggestions or can you point me to where it would be best to spray it into the system?

 

To add, the ELM327 OBD2 reader came in today. There was a temporary / pending code P15E8. I didn’t clear it with the tool, however after one failed staring attempt, the error code cleared. I permanently stored codes.

 

Spray through the elbow going into the throttle body. There is a snap ring, move it and spray a little there.

Did you check the crankshaft position sensor

 

Just wanted to provide an update - so far no luck.
I checked the main relay and that seems to be working. oK.
I’m leaving the battery disconnected for a bit and see if that allows a reset.
The only other thing that I plan on doing is testing some of the other relays that are next to the battery and behind the ECM in that small compartment.

I was reading up on how to setup Ista+ and a DCan cable to see if the sync between ECM and other component can be completed, but that seems challenging, specially when I still have to look for the software and the cable.

Would anyone know how the timing sensor referenced below can be tested to see if that is the issue? I have an idea as to where it is and how to remove the cover.

Thanks.

 

where are you located?

did you try the quick start?

can you confirm spark?

how about compression?

 

- Located in Frederick, MD
- I attempted quickstart through the crankcase breather hose (as pointed out by another member on the forum) but that seem to have no positive results.
- I haven't been able to confirm spark, and don't know how to (yet).
- Same with compression (no confirmation yet).


I was able to connect the unit to an OBD II reader and according to the app, it looks like revolutions are noted at 179. coolant temp is 27 F (which was in line with the outside temp when testing. I see some exhaust (smelled like the quick start) come out when attempting to crank, but never sparks.


Any thoughts? I appreciate the feed back.

 

did you have a sunroof? can you confirm the fuse box didnt get wet? can you also check connectivity on fuses?

as for the spark, i use a jumping cable. remove the spark, plug the coil and lay on the valve cover, place the plug inside the coil, connect one end of the jumping cable on the negative terminal of the batter, connect the other end on the exposed side of the spark plug. send me a picture when done to confirm before you run the test.

your about 3 hrs drive from me, not a bad drive.

 

Couple ways to go about this... do you have a test light? You can pick up a cheap one that measures both power and ground and it will aid very much in diagnosing. its called a "logic probe" https://www.harborfreight.com/comput...obe-98709.html . Ok, first check all fuses with the key on, under the hood and in the pass kick panel. Next i would go to the bottom left connector on the pass kick panel, the farthest bottom left connector (closest to the firewall) you want to go to pin 3 (solid red wire) and check for ground while cranking. It should have ground while cranking. Start there, report results.

 

SquawSkiBum / MiniToBe / Minimonsta22 - wanted to thank you for your input. I didn’t get a chance to log back in previously, however I wanted to provide an update as my R56S has life again!!! My brother stopped by with his buddy and we attempted to push start it. Pushed it around the culdesac while pushing the start button and throwing into 2nd gear and voila... it started catching. After two or three tries we got combustion and that was it. In my case bad gas was the culprit! Mental note for the future..... bring the car inside and add some gas treatment before Christmas and at every fill up if not driven daily.
While spraying the QuickStart I ended up accidentally cracking the crank case breather hose under the sleeve while attempting to release the pinch lock - the plastic hoses are super fragile.

 

thanks for the update! Happy to hear there was a happy ending.

 

Yep thanks for the update. Keep in mind N14s need attention. Oil mainly. Check the chain tensioner and guides...

 

Hey guys,

I have a 2008 R56 JCW. I recently did the timing chain replacement and it was running pretty good. Last Friday I used it all day. When I tried to turn it on the next day, it didn't. So far I tested the battery, fuses, relays. fuel pump is priming with no problems, and no codes at all. Any ideas/suggestions that what to do next? Thanks in advance.