CV axle replacement - North American Motoring


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CV axle replacement

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Old 02-19-2018, 08:21 AM
dnsherrill dnsherrill is offline
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CV axle replacement

I'm new to Mini's as well as new to fwd cars; I've had my 2004 R53 for a few weeks and am still compiling the list of repairs and urgency. 168k miles
This weekend I noticed both sides have the outboard boots separated at the end closest to the hub/bearing. The car drives great and makes no CV clicking noise at any time.
My presumption is to deal with the mess and wait for them to start clicking before replacing them.
Yes/no? why?
thanks
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Old 02-20-2018, 06:47 AM
gumbedamit gumbedamit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnsherrill View Post
I'm new to Mini's as well as new to fwd cars; I've had my 2004 R53 for a few weeks and am still compiling the list of repairs and urgency. 168k miles
This weekend I noticed both sides have the outboard boots separated at the end closest to the hub/bearing. The car drives great and makes no CV clicking noise at any time.
My presumption is to deal with the mess and wait for them to start clicking before replacing them.
Yes/no? why?
thanks

I would spend $30 and 2hrs time replacing the boots. If you see this as a problem now, why wait until you get stranded because the CV joint gave, which will happen at a most un-opportune time.

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Old 02-20-2018, 02:27 PM
Brownshoe Brownshoe is offline
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I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles.

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Old 02-20-2018, 02:59 PM
yyj3869 yyj3869 is online now
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Old 02-21-2018, 05:07 AM
MrBlah MrBlah is offline
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do not go aftermarket, way too many posts on how they fail and pop out and destroy stuff like transmissions
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Old 02-21-2018, 05:14 AM
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Whine not Walnuts Whine not Walnuts is offline
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And if you change be sure that you have the transmission end properly seated.
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Old 02-21-2018, 07:42 AM
gumbedamit gumbedamit is offline
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Originally Posted by Brownshoe View Post
I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles.

Welcome, and happy motoring!
Sometimes that does happen. I was looking for the actual bearings so that I could rebuild them myself, could not find them and I didn't want to pay $1K for axles that I may not have needed because my boots were destroyed. I've removed my axles cleaned and re-packed the bearings, replaced the boots and 10k miles later they are still in good shape. Some may feel as you do, others as I do, either way, It's all good.
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Old 02-22-2018, 06:30 PM
dnsherrill dnsherrill is offline
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who is the manufacturer? why don't you need it? price including shipping?
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Old 02-22-2018, 06:34 PM
dnsherrill dnsherrill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brownshoe View Post
I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles.

Welcome, and happy motoring!
that was the essence of my concern.
My CV's are working fine now, and making no clicking sounds at all.
Would disassembling them to replace the boot run the risk of expediting their failure....which is what it sounds like happened in your situation
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Old 02-22-2018, 06:43 PM
dnsherrill dnsherrill is offline
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do not go aftermarket, way too many posts on how they fail and pop out and destroy stuff like transmissions
wow....$230 each for a GKN....or $650 each for a genuine Mini part????
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Old 02-22-2018, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnsherrill View Post
who is the manufacturer? why don't you need it? price including shipping?
I was planning to install on mine but my mechanic said mine is working okay so i don't need to replace it. I can do $80 shipped
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Old 02-22-2018, 07:23 PM
dnsherrill dnsherrill is offline
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I was planning to install on mine but my mechanic said mine is working okay so i don't need to replace it. I can do $80 shipped
why did you think yours was bad? the one you're selling is made by who? Remanned is less than $50 each. My car is and will remain stock ride height and power train
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Old 02-22-2018, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnsherrill View Post
why did you think yours was bad? the one you're selling is made by who? Remanned is less than $50 each. My car is and will remain stock ride height and power train
i thought grease was leaking from cv boot but it was coolant.
Brand: Drive Tech America
Manufacturer Part Number: BW-2502
Part Brand: DTA
OE Spec or Performance/Custom: OE Spec
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Old 02-23-2018, 07:51 AM
gumbedamit gumbedamit is offline
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Originally Posted by dnsherrill View Post
wow....$230 each for a GKN....or $650 each for a genuine Mini part????
Thus the reason I just cleaned, re-packed and put new boots on. Removing the bearing from the axle is not going to expedite it's failure. When removing the bearing, just be careful not to bang the bearings trying to take it off. I've read horror stories about cheap CV axles, that's the reason I just replaced the boots. If you want to spend $1200 as a preventative maintenance item, that's your call. Good luck with whatever you decide.
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:23 AM
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AoxoMoxoA AoxoMoxoA is offline
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FWIW... put me on the list of folks that believe it's easier to just replace the entire axle with a reconditioned unit (with warranty) from a reputable source such as Cardone Industries. No fitment issues whatsoever on my replacements.
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Old 02-23-2018, 10:13 AM
dnsherrill dnsherrill is offline
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Originally Posted by AoxoMoxoA View Post
FWIW... put me on the list of folks that believe it's easier to just replace the entire axle with a reconditioned unit (with warranty) from a reputable source such as Cardone Industries. No fitment issues whatsoever on my replacements.
someone else mentioned that if my car is stock power train and standard ride height, remanned A1 Cardones would be fine.
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Old 02-23-2018, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnsherrill View Post
someone else mentioned that if my car is stock power train and standard ride height, remanned A1 Cardones would be fine.
Worked for me...

Passenger side ended up costing me $50 after $35 core was refunded.
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Old 03-01-2018, 04:14 AM
dnsherrill dnsherrill is offline
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I've just about decided to spend a few hundred $ and upgrade to urethane bushings in a few locations. front CA at sway bar union; lower engine mount, sway bar, trans/engine bushing, rear trailing arm inserts.....
question:
will grease from the open CV boots shorten the life span of the urethane bushings?
Ideally I'd replace the CV axles then the bushings....but I'm inclined to delay the axles until i hear them clicking.
thx

Last edited by dnsherrill; 03-01-2018 at 04:22 AM.
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Old 03-10-2018, 06:21 PM
dnsherrill dnsherrill is offline
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it looks like the A1 Cardone right side remanned CV axle assembly (66-9280) has a carrier bearing that doesn't mount to the block.....I presume that doesn't matter?
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Old 03-10-2018, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnsherrill View Post
it looks like the A1 Cardone right side remanned CV axle assembly (66-9280) has a carrier bearing that doesn't mount to the block.....I presume that doesn't matter?
You’re correct, it comes with the carrier bearing, but not the carrier itself. You need to reuse the bearing carrier from the one you are replacing, and yes, that does bolt to the block.

ModMINI has a video on the complete process.

ETA: With the axle out, you’ll have excellent access for removal of the oil filter housing, which by now is very likely to be dripping.

Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; 03-10-2018 at 07:04 PM.
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  #21  
Old 03-12-2018, 07:45 PM
dnsherrill dnsherrill is offline
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got the passenger side swapped this weekend, ended up removing the lower engine mount for better access on the carrier bolts.
next weekend is the driver's side cv axle
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