CV axle replacement
#1
CV axle replacement
I'm new to Mini's as well as new to fwd cars; I've had my 2004 R53 for a few weeks and am still compiling the list of repairs and urgency. 168k miles
This weekend I noticed both sides have the outboard boots separated at the end closest to the hub/bearing. The car drives great and makes no CV clicking noise at any time.
My presumption is to deal with the mess and wait for them to start clicking before replacing them.
Yes/no? why?
thanks
This weekend I noticed both sides have the outboard boots separated at the end closest to the hub/bearing. The car drives great and makes no CV clicking noise at any time.
My presumption is to deal with the mess and wait for them to start clicking before replacing them.
Yes/no? why?
thanks
#2
I'm new to Mini's as well as new to fwd cars; I've had my 2004 R53 for a few weeks and am still compiling the list of repairs and urgency. 168k miles
This weekend I noticed both sides have the outboard boots separated at the end closest to the hub/bearing. The car drives great and makes no CV clicking noise at any time.
My presumption is to deal with the mess and wait for them to start clicking before replacing them.
Yes/no? why?
thanks
This weekend I noticed both sides have the outboard boots separated at the end closest to the hub/bearing. The car drives great and makes no CV clicking noise at any time.
My presumption is to deal with the mess and wait for them to start clicking before replacing them.
Yes/no? why?
thanks
I would spend $30 and 2hrs time replacing the boots. If you see this as a problem now, why wait until you get stranded because the CV joint gave, which will happen at a most un-opportune time.
Welcome to NAM
#3
I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles.
Welcome, and happy motoring!
Welcome, and happy motoring!
#7
I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles.
Welcome, and happy motoring!
Welcome, and happy motoring!
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#8
I have brand new one
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nsmission.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nsmission.html
#9
I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles.
Welcome, and happy motoring!
Welcome, and happy motoring!
My CV's are working fine now, and making no clicking sounds at all.
Would disassembling them to replace the boot run the risk of expediting their failure....which is what it sounds like happened in your situation
#10
#11
#12
why did you think yours was bad? the one you're selling is made by who? Remanned is less than $50 each. My car is and will remain stock ride height and power train
#13
Brand: Drive Tech America
Manufacturer Part Number: BW-2502
Part Brand: DTA
OE Spec or Performance/Custom: OE Spec
#14
Thus the reason I just cleaned, re-packed and put new boots on. Removing the bearing from the axle is not going to expedite it's failure. When removing the bearing, just be careful not to bang the bearings trying to take it off. I've read horror stories about cheap CV axles, that's the reason I just replaced the boots. If you want to spend $1200 as a preventative maintenance item, that's your call. Good luck with whatever you decide.
#15
#16
someone else mentioned that if my car is stock power train and standard ride height, remanned A1 Cardones would be fine.
#17
#18
I've just about decided to spend a few hundred $ and upgrade to urethane bushings in a few locations. front CA at sway bar union; lower engine mount, sway bar, trans/engine bushing, rear trailing arm inserts.....
question:
will grease from the open CV boots shorten the life span of the urethane bushings?
Ideally I'd replace the CV axles then the bushings....but I'm inclined to delay the axles until i hear them clicking.
thx
question:
will grease from the open CV boots shorten the life span of the urethane bushings?
Ideally I'd replace the CV axles then the bushings....but I'm inclined to delay the axles until i hear them clicking.
thx
Last edited by dnsherrill; 03-01-2018 at 04:22 AM.
#19
#20
ModMINI has a video on the complete process.
ETA: With the axle out, you’ll have excellent access for removal of the oil filter housing, which by now is very likely to be dripping.
Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; 03-10-2018 at 07:04 PM.
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dnsherrill (03-10-2018)
#21
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