And So It Continues...
 

Hey guys, hope everyone enjoyed their summer! I certainly did--took the 53 on a 5,000+ mile road trip around the Western US, picked up an Australian hitchhiker and gave him a ride 500 miles up the coast, broke down in Oregon with 22 different engine codes, found a replacement header, Screamin Demon coil pack, and full Milltek resonated catback in Seattle for $300 on a car that was about to be wrecked, met the guys at DynaSport in Portland and they installed it for a fair price, drove Pike's Peak, got lost in Navajo Nation, etc. I've been meaning to post pictures, but I took around 5,000 and they're a pain to sort through, and school has had the better of me since two days after I got back to AZ. I honestly just haven't had time. Huge thanks to everyone that's given me advice along the way, and recommended shops/courses of action, helped me troubleshoot codes, etc. CSP, pnwR53s, Grey Raven, and everyone else that has been invaluable in keeping me alive, you guys are awesome. I owe you all a beer or twelve one day. :thumbsup:

But of course, the seasons are changing, which means that it's time for our lovely R53's to break again :lol:

My transmission has been on its last legs since the date of purchase. 4th and 6th gear were screamers, and I stopped using them entirely in May. You can hear how the main trans bearing sounded before purchase in sawdustman's post that he made while selling the car to me, but it's progressed substantially since then.

Basically, Fall break is coming up, and I have two issues I have to sort in the next two weeks:

1. The oil pressure light started going on every time the RPMs drop below 2200. See video. Apparent sawdustcuck replaced the pressure sender the day before selling it to me--but I don't know if I can trust his word after everything else that has happened. Any easy way to diagnose if I'm actually having an oiling issue, short of adding an oil pressure gauge? Does the ECU read oil pressure? Could I read it using a OBDII adapter? There is no variation in sound, when the light is on or off, as far as I can tell.

2. 3rd gear has now gone out entirely. Now I have to shift 1>2>5 around the city if I want to avoid screams or pops. No more downshifts for me. :( The main seal between the engine and trans is also pissing oil at like, a quart every 2 weeks, so it looks like I'm due for a drivetrain overhaul. I saved the cash up this last month, and I'm ready to buy a used Getrag, preferably an 05-06 for them shorter gears :cool:

The issue that arises, then, is what is required to mate a pre-facelift engine to a post-facelift transmission? Bahman noted that the post-facelift trans has different shifter cables. Is there anything else that's different?

Thanks in advance, guys! (And Happy Fall!!!!)

beware of sawdust
 

I am so sorry that you are the victim of the dishonest sawdustman. I hope karma will catch up with this crook. I would not be surprise ashhole like him would put sawdust in a worn and noisy gearbox just to quiet it for the half hour he showed you the car.:eek2: Pouring STP into oil burning engine has been an age old trick of these scums.

Mini ECU has no oil pressure information. Your option is to remove the oil pressure switch and hook up a pressure gauge, or invest in a oil pressure gauge. I like Autometer for their quality and good price.

The gear shifter cassette of the pre and post facelift R53 are different so Bahman's point should be healed. Just get the 05 on Getrag with the shifter and cables. The shift linkage couplers at the transmission are very delicate so one should remove and install with care.

I have never heard of someone worn out a R53 Getrag. Make you wonder about sawdustscum.

oil pressure gauge
 

It depends on your risk tolerance. I like mechanical pressure gauge as it is simple and reliable. You can pick up this US made for very reasonable price to check your oil problem, and hopefully there is no sawdust to plug it up.:lol:


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...5de3c72b3c.jpg

I am very displeased with the $55 Cravenspeed T-fitting. Its insufficiently cut on the taper pipe thread and too expensive. Since I spent the big bucks I found a much cheaper one on Summit Racing. Summit is nice with great integrity but their search engine sux.

because of the insufficient cut pipe thread, I could not tighten it properly for the fear of stripping the oil filter housing; you can see only 3 turns were used :sad:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...1809fd69a3.jpg

Hahaha, I wouldn't go that far. Don't pity the fool--I was a naive kid who was set on buying a NAM-owned R53, and was completely blind to all of the "signs"--inconsistent seller messages, initial attempts to convince me not to get a pre-purchase inspection/the last-minute offer to get the PPI done himself and bring the inspection ticket to purchase, riding a bus for 9 hours out to a sketchy SoCal neighborhood after dark to buy a car sight unseen, etc. Risk aversion is not my strong suit--and while I'm certainly learning the whole maturity thing--there's no use blaming it all on him. It takes two to tango.

Let's be honest. I thrashed a gearbox that was already on its last legs for like, 6000 miles....and I was not nice to 2nd and 3rd gear. Of course, I never failed to depress the clutch all the way, never forced the shifter into gear, never had any grinds/overrevs/serious rev-mis-matches, would always skip past failing 4th gear on the way up/double clutch on the way down, etc. But nonetheless, I would regularly dump the clutch on the 2>3 upshift. I'm sure that's not a recipe for longevity on any failing transmission, Getrag, Midlands, ZF, or otherwise.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Anyways, thanks for the tips on the oil pressure adapters. If I decide to shell out the cash for a proper gauge, I'll definitely go with Summit's adapter, coupled with an AutoMeter gauge, to match my current boost gauge. For now though, to minimize costs, I basically need to find an oil pressure tester gauge and thread it in place of the pressure sender, start the engine, let it warm up, and then read the oil pressure at idle, right? What are good numbers for oil pressure?

That's secondary, though. The big question at hand right now is sourcing a good replacement transmission, and all the other associated bits. Anyone else able to weigh in on what's necessary to swap a post-facelift trans onto a pre-facelift car? So far the list includes:

• 05-06 Getrag gearbox
• 05-06 shifter cables
• 05-06 shifter housing

Do I need to source any interior bits? Is the shifter in the same location? Are the mounts the same? I know they redesigned the upper and lower passenger-side mounts, but is the same true for the trans mount? What about axles? Do they have compatible splines?

Also, it looks like the guys who have come before us have all ran into the issue of cruise control no longer working after the swap. Apparently the OBC calculates throttle/speed based upon gear ratios and/or crank speed, and this is programmed directly into the ECU. A flash cannot fix this.

Would swapping to a post-facelift ECU fix this? Do you guys have any idea about who I could ask about this, even? I really like my cruise control for long stints on the freeway, my last R53 didn't have it, and that's part of the reason I went all "rose-colored-glasses" for this one in the first place. At the same time, though, I think we can all agree that 1st gear is much too tall in the pre-facelift cars. I don't know. I'm stumped. Any and all opinions are welcome (including favorite clutches/flywheels/etc), I need to get moving on purchases.

I use 5w30. On cool days starting idle can be as high as 45 PSI. at above 2500 rpm 60 to 70 PSI. On hot days at track idle never drop below 10 - 15 PSI. above 2500 rpm is still around 60+. This is on a tight engine.

I would caution that the shifter stick, cassette and cables being different between pre and post facelift, there may be no different at the gearbox including the two shift levers and the ball joint. Yes, or no I don't know.

Very interesting that dumb cruise control would care about gear ratio change.:roll:

Reading the last two replies on that thread and using the little common sense I have left :grin:, I would wager it is all fake news about cruise control being affected.

But the performance benefits would be YUGE! :razz:

Haha, all silliness aside, I'm waiting on different auto salvage yards to get back to me. In the meantime, I'm working on configuring the necessary purchases besides the transmission. Looking at the Valeo SMF+clutch combo at the moment. ECS has it on sale atm!!

Before I jump on that, though, does anyone know of a better combination? Looking for a happy medium between crank lightness and daily comfort, and I really shouldn't shouldn't spend more than $400 or so.

Also, I know this is sort of unrealistic, but does anyone know where one can source a used mechanical LSD for cheap? I just feel like if my engine and transmission are coming apart, there's no excuse not to get an LSD. But I'm not about to spend $1000+ on OSGiken or something crazy. I just want a simple, lock-wheels-on-acceleration, not-sketchy-in-inclement-weather diff. I'm tired of wearing tires one at a time :lol:

Exedy clutch
 

Before you put your money down on the Valeo kit, I recommend you read my recent post on my experience with the Exedy clutch kit. It might be $10 or $20 more, but I am extremely pleased that the flywheel is a bit lighter than Valeo and enhance the communication between me and Desire.:thumbsup:

Unless you have mega HP on a monster Mini and plan to track it seriously you will not need OS Giken LSD. You can get a Quaife at good price shipped from UK taking advantage of the Brexit dividend. There is also a Domestic alternative that seems quite good at similar price. With the labor intensive work of getting to the gearbox putting in a LSD is a no-brainer even if you have to rob a bank or Burger King, or rob a grandma. :grin:

For the Exedy kit search for Exedy BMK1001FW. The best prices are always changing, and you can PM me. It has a lighter flywheel than Valeo but does not compromise ride comfort for me.

No grandma-robbing, unfortunately. :lol: I did go to MINI North Scottsdale today for some tips on the transmission install, though! Picked up a guide bearing while I was at it. That particular dealership has an excellent parts department...I seriously recommend going there if any of you guys are passing by.

Additionally, as a replacement update, I decided to go the "easy" route and get a local pre-facelift box (thanks midwestinsocal!) I looked into the Exedy clutch, but rather I'm budget-limited, so I think I'm just going to go with Valeo because of how well-documented its longevity is.

In general though, gearing up for the swap. Right now, I'm just trying to look for alternatives to the pricey local Rent-A-Lift. Any ideas?

Everything I can find says the thread is a 3/8" British Pipe Thread and not NPT as what is being sold on this side of pond. What did you order from Summit? I checked with the them and they said they have no BSPT fittings.

Good read. My input would be have a crankshaft seal ready, probably the source of your oil leak.

Bspt
 

I think you are spot on about the problem being the Gen 1 Mini oil pressure switch is BSPT instead of what most including me, assume is NPT. I am aware of BSPT and its subtle differences but I just never thought of it. This totally explains why when threading the Cravenspeed adapter onto the oil filter housing the thread just felt to me wrong like inadequately cut.

The stock oil pressure switch thread easily and you can make many turns before it progressive getting tight. The Cravenspeed adapter however, starting to get tight at turn 2, and by turn 3 where the small port is properly oriented it is already quite tight, but not tight enough. The tightening is not progressive. I fear I would strip the aluminum housing thread if I make one more turn so I didn't.

Here is one good site for reading up on BSPT vs NPT. There is more difference than the 55-degree vs 60-degree thread angle. Depends on the diameter, the thread pitch can be quite different.

I didn't buy the one from Summit. Only to found it after paying twice as much at Cravenspeed.:roll:

Not sure what you mean by the guide bearing, if you mean guide tube, or the release bearing. The clutch kit should come with a OEM release bearing, but no guide tube.

Two thumbs up for midwestinsocal. I got my Hawk racing pads from him and he expedited the shipping at no added cost knowing I need it for the track day.:thumbsup:

For the lift, you know you can pick up a HF engine lift for circa $79.99. You can always sell it if you don't have space to keep it.

Thanks for clarifying this! Being the nublet I am, I had absolutely no idea what you guys were talking about until you posted this. Really good stuff to know if anyone is trying to avoid spending big bucks on pricey fittings. :nod:


Yep, this thing! (Do I get bonus points for Alien 2 playing in the background?:grin:)

But yes, all of the thumbs up for midwest! Go to r53spares.com and buy some stuff, people! Great guy. He's actually helping me swap the transmission this weekend! I help him maneuver his 5.0 mustang engine he's swapping in, he helps me maneuver my 1.6L hairdryer that I'm trying to swap out...I supply pizza and beer, he supplies the engine hoist. Should work out swimmingly. And yes, I'll make sure to take pictures this time. :lol:

Thank you!! Here's what I've ordered so far, by the way (ignore my ugly crops/redactions, I'm lazy)--any last minute part recommendations? :popcorn:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...3fbe186ca0.jpg

HAPPY ALMOST WEEKEND, GUYS!!!!

Craven told me the Gen1 engine was a "Chrysler". Yea, sure.

He is partly right. The Tritec engine development had a coloured history. Chrysler engine team did have a lot of contributions in the engine development. The Tritec engine is also used in European Chrysler Neon and PT Cruiser.

It did stumped me to no end with just about everything on the Mini are metric, yet there is this Imperial thread oil pressure switch. And the last discovery is it is not just Imperial but a proper bloody British Standard Pipe Tapered.

If look hard enough, there might even be a Lucas hiding somewhere.:eek2:

Yep,
Lots of info here on the Tritech:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...oper-here.html

YUP
it was a chrysler design to start with
BMW bought out Chrysler's interest in the brazil engine plant .
and the supercharger on the early Gen 1,s were a GM design ....

Lots of parties had their hands on our little car. :) It is truly an international endeavour. The Tritec engines were manufactured in Brazil, and used by over half dozen of cars, including a humble Chinese brand called Lifan - meaning powerful sail.

I wish Unbreakable Lump will finish writing the third installment of what he said he would.

emulation is the most sincere form of flattery
 

a Lifan 320. Emulation is a the most sincere form of flattery.:)

it appears it does not have a Tritec engine though; and are those x-lite wheels?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...222f2a8fbb.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...fb1d5dd69c.jpg

Yes! Also, I'm pretty sure that our supercharged variant won engine of the year in the early 2000s! By the way, the story of Unbreakable Lump's name is incredible. Thanks for sharing. :nod:
(Part I and Part II here)

They sure look like it, don't they? :lol: At least they changed the center caps....that thing is properly shameless. The imitation on the front clip is shockingly obvious, and the colored roof looks silly without frameless windows. Nice try on the a-pillars! :roll:

[duplicate post]

Well, it's been a long fall season. Killed it taking 21 credit hours and working 20 hours a week, and winter is finally here! Happy New Year and Happy Motoring, chumps. :wink:

I figured I'd start the new year on the right foot and and just swap the motor at home, which has proven interesting, on a variety of levels. I like in a small duplex in a shady part of town (a jack has been stolen from under my car, my go pro taken less than 4 minutes after it fell off of my board, etc) and there is very little storage space to work with. Packing up every night has proven to be really fun though, in addition to being a generally good habit to pick up in the first place. The storage limitations are pushing me to be more careful, organized, and methodical.

​https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...2ed273ef56.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...8a10b0e218.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...f472158c80.jpg

I started on Friday around 2pm and almost got the motor out by the time it got dark. Overslept like crazy on Saturday, and didn't get to wrenching until noon. Got the motor out, separated the bell housing, and started swapping parts. I think I found my oil pressure issue...

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...14977dd58e.jpg
One of my boxes of seals and bits from PelicanParts didn't arrive as expected presumably due to the holiday madness at the post office with shipments, so I have to wait to reassemble until I figure that out.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...ba8000f0a3.jpghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...58549de935.jpg

Also discovered my master cylinder is leaking. R53spares hooked me up with one, I'll be installing it tomorrow. Should I remove the booster, sand, and repaint, or is it fine if I just wire brush the ruined paint away?

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...80328e1dcc.jpg

Do you guys have any ideas where I can get a new/used oil drainback valve for the oil filter housing, short of a junkyard? My understanding is that it is only sold with the filter housing.

Glad you are getting a short break. I did my undergraduate in a 5 year combined technical and business program. Full technical degree course load plus all the mandatory commerce degree credits. We had the highest credit hours of any undergraduate programs, and better yet, the program was brand new so not yet accredited at the time. We were the guinea pigs.:confused:

The broken drain back valve definitely explained your misfortune. You have to buy the entire housing. eBay has a lot of them. Evidently it broke likely from the PO using cheap aftermarket filter that does not have the plastic ring to prevent the paper filter from tearing out the drainback valve.