Rich at idle lean off idle
#51
09-19-2018, 10:26 AM
Plugs have ~ 400 miles on them if that. I will prime them - Im assuming that pushing the start button and turning on the ignition without starting does this? Or do you just unplug the injectors and try to start the car then check plugs? I will post the lambda values laters. Thanks for the insight bro!
#52
09-20-2018, 08:59 AM
timing seems normal... with your OBDII reader.. can you see levels for MAF and O2 sensor lambda?
As for your Q on the injectors.. you may be able to blast them clean certainly. I would want to have them flow checked before installation again though just to be sure.
**Separate Q - when was the last time spark plugs were pulled/inspected/torqued? You can tell whats going on in the combustion chamber pretty well by looking at the plugs for each cylinder. If you find wet plugs..or if there is buildup, the color of the buildup.. the orientation of the buildup.. these all let you know whats occurring.
As for your Q on the injectors.. you may be able to blast them clean certainly. I would want to have them flow checked before installation again though just to be sure.
**Separate Q - when was the last time spark plugs were pulled/inspected/torqued? You can tell whats going on in the combustion chamber pretty well by looking at the plugs for each cylinder. If you find wet plugs..or if there is buildup, the color of the buildup.. the orientation of the buildup.. these all let you know whats occurring.
At idle under the vehicle specific scan function, im seeing:
Lambda -controller output = 0.97
Lambda actual value = 1.01
Lambda setpoint value = 1.00 - I've seen this jump up to 15 and back real quick
Additional mixture adaptation -6.80% ( if this long term FT ? )
O2 S1 = fluctuates from -0.699 to 0.000 mA at idle
catemp = 1110*F
EQ_RAT = 0.999
Load_Abs = 27.8%
Again, thanks for your help.
#53
09-21-2018, 09:35 AM
Negative value = rich
* I found this useful..especially the part about negative/rich values
Source
* I found this useful..especially the part about negative/rich values
"Engine Adaptation Values
Additive mixture adaptations: This adaptation is referred to as “short term fuel trim”. This value is measured in milliseconds and can occur in positive or negative values. These adaptations are made to the engine while at idle.Excessively positive Additive values indicate a lean condition. Some common causes are:- Unmetered air leaks, torn intake boot, leaking intake manifold gaskets
- Crankcase vent system fault, system valve stuck open
- Low fuel pressure, pressure regulator malfunction
- MAF malfunction, sending incorrect signal information
- A restriction at engine intake, such as clogged air filter blocking air intake into engine
- Crankcase vent valve stuck closed or blocked
- High fuel pressure, caused by pressure regulator or restricted fuel return line
- MAF malfunction, sending incorrect signal information to ECM
- MAF malfunction, incorrect signal information sent to the ECM
- Low fuel pressure, faulty fuel pump
- Unmetered air leak, such as torn intake boot, etc
- Pressure regulator malfunction
- Sensor failure that could result in erroneous information to falsely enrich mixture, such as engine coolant temperature sensor or intake air temperature sensor
- High fuel pressure, restriction in return line or fault with fuel pressure regulator
- MAF malfunction, incorrect signal information being sent to the ECM
- Restriction at air intake blocking airflow into engine, such as a clogged air filter
Source
#54
09-21-2018, 11:18 AM
#57
09-24-2018, 07:39 AM
At idle (~750 rpm) im at 18.1 kg/h or 5 g/s
Hmmmmmmmmmm........... ***** air filter might be culprit, but I also noticed while driving, the Engine coolant temp sensor is all over the place rapidly. Like sitting at a light, its 186*F, and by the time you shift into 2nd or third on normal "unspirited' acceleration, it jumps up to 240-245. then back to 200, then 241, back to 194, all over the place in a matter of seconds
#59
09-24-2018, 11:14 AM
Somethings not right with those temps either.. unless its 90F out & your driving real hard.. you should never see 240F temps on coolant.
*I think its time for a compression check - these issues along with the heat, are beginning to looks like oil blow-by .. which WILL definitely cause a lean condition when the oil starts combusting with your fuel mix.
**doesnt explain the low MAF readings.. must be compound issues going on here.
*I think its time for a compression check - these issues along with the heat, are beginning to looks like oil blow-by .. which WILL definitely cause a lean condition when the oil starts combusting with your fuel mix.
**doesnt explain the low MAF readings.. must be compound issues going on here.
#60
09-24-2018, 01:22 PM
Somethings not right with those temps either.. unless its 90F out & your driving real hard.. you should never see 240F temps on coolant.
*I think its time for a compression check - these issues along with the heat, are beginning to looks like oil blow-by .. which WILL definitely cause a lean condition when the oil starts combusting with your fuel mix.
**doesnt explain the low MAF readings.. must be compound issues going on here.
*I think its time for a compression check - these issues along with the heat, are beginning to looks like oil blow-by .. which WILL definitely cause a lean condition when the oil starts combusting with your fuel mix.
**doesnt explain the low MAF readings.. must be compound issues going on here.
#61
09-24-2018, 03:05 PM
may need to call a dealer for the impedance .. I agree with what you posted above though & sounds like you are getting closer to finding the root cause here.
*you would have seen oil & smelled fuel on the plugs if you had any issue with rings/compression - so looks like you have eliminated the need for a compression check with your inspection of the plugs.
*you would have seen oil & smelled fuel on the plugs if you had any issue with rings/compression - so looks like you have eliminated the need for a compression check with your inspection of the plugs.
#62
09-24-2018, 06:52 PM
Well, temp sensor is stable at about 214-224 now. I did a water pump over the weekend, and apparently there was an air bubble that I didnt get out and finally got it out. Makes sense why it would jump up and then jump back down so fast. Probably a pocket of steam or something. Now I cant get it to go past 222 or 224. Im still leaning towards a ***** air filter now. If that doesnot change, im driving this pos off a cliff.
Last edited by Machine; 09-25-2018 at 05:52 AM.
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#63
09-25-2018, 10:52 AM
#65
09-25-2018, 01:52 PM
Wurd. thanks man. I ordered a pipercross filter and ill see if that helps. the filter in there now feels like it has the density of a dying sun. I also have a spare MAF that I will swap out and see if it reads the same. If you clear the DME codes along with the OBD2 codes, will it then re-learn the MAF? Or do you still need to disconnect the battery and hold the + and - together to totally drain all the capacitors and memory, etc?
#66
09-25-2018, 05:48 PM
Reporting to the ecu that the throttle plate is open more than it really is. That’s basically what happened to mine. I had a maf that was reading low so I figured that’s where the fuel corrections we’re coming from. When I replaced the maf everything seemed fine for a few days then all of the sudden they weren’t. It was worse than before. I think there was some kind of symbiotic balance between all of my sensors trying to compensate for the throttle fluctuations but when I replaced the throttle body it all went away. My fuel trim went from being negative all the time at idle to hovering around 0.
I wish you luck man! Replacing all that stuff is a pain, just take your time and try to get multiple things in one go so you don’t have to keep disassembling everything. Oh and when you replace your maf you can just clear codes it will be fine. The difference will be immediately noticeable if it was a bad one.
I wish you luck man! Replacing all that stuff is a pain, just take your time and try to get multiple things in one go so you don’t have to keep disassembling everything. Oh and when you replace your maf you can just clear codes it will be fine. The difference will be immediately noticeable if it was a bad one.
#67
09-27-2018, 11:29 AM
Reporting to the ecu that the throttle plate is open more than it really is. That’s basically what happened to mine. I had a maf that was reading low so I figured that’s where the fuel corrections we’re coming from. When I replaced the maf everything seemed fine for a few days then all of the sudden they weren’t. It was worse than before. I think there was some kind of symbiotic balance between all of my sensors trying to compensate for the throttle fluctuations but when I replaced the throttle body it all went away. My fuel trim went from being negative all the time at idle to hovering around 0.
I wish you luck man! Replacing all that stuff is a pain, just take your time and try to get multiple things in one go so you don’t have to keep disassembling everything. Oh and when you replace your maf you can just clear codes it will be fine. The difference will be immediately noticeable if it was a bad one.