Limp mode, P0456, P0441, P1688 dead battery
#1
Limp mode, P0456, P0441, P1688 dead battery
I'll start off by saying, I have searched the forums and haven't really come up with anything that I felt was the same set of issues as I am having. Ill also say that I am very mildly mechanically inclined. For a few months my car has thrown the p0456 code (evap very small leak) I checked my gas cap to ensure it was tight and reset the code. The code would disappear for about 2 months. The car threw the code again so this time i really checked the gas cap for a broken seal, no issues found. I tighten the cap and reset the code thinking if it appears again ill start by buying a new cap. Fast forward another 2 months and i get another CEL on my way from work. I check it and this time it's P0441 I mistakenly cleared this one before really writing down the code but it was something along the lines of "purge flow incorrect" Doing some reading leads me to believe it's the purge control valve/ tank vent valve. Delphi part # 1997278. I grab the part for cheap from autozone and install it on my lunch break at work. Start the car, grab lunch, drive back to my office and everything seemed peachy. Get back in the car to leave work, drive about 45-55 minutes running errands on my way home from work. I'm about .5 mile away from home when i notice the battery light on my dash light up. I do a double take and it's gone. I think "did i really just see that?" well in my confusion at the red light the car starts to sputter.. "oh no.. is this limp mode?" I crawl through the busy intersection and make it to a nearby parking lot and park. The car is running rough so i shut it off. I go to check the CEL is threw in limp mode and it just gives me aa P1688 code and my reader just list it as "unknown diagnostic trouble code" It starts to drizzle so i try to roll my windows up and they barely make it, attempt to start car and battery is dead. Couple hours later after charging the battery i take it back to the car and check voltage w/multimeter 12.14v, start the car with battery AC & lights off, check voltage battery jumps to 14.70v (alternator is good?) turn on AC and lights voltage drops to 11.5v. I start the car and kinda loaf outta the parking lot onto the main road, try to get up to speed BAM limp mode. I can't help but think I screwed something up when I installed the new tank vent valve. Belt is still on the car? i dont see any obviously loose wires or connections.'06 R53 with 150k.. Sorry for the wall of text guys, I'm just extremely worried and anxious.
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Let's say your right, quick fix as in just do it myself? Or let the dealership handle it? Supposed to hear back by the end of the week. They have me in a loaner '17 base model Cooper and I think they're just trying to get my to like it enough to buy one.
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#8
If it is the crank pulley I would recommend going to an upgraded unit, like the ATI Super Damper. The OE unit hasn't been updated and still fails in the same fashion, we have never had a problem with the ATI pulleys and have been selling them for years.
ATI Super Damper
#10
I just put a new ATI on last week. Way has one that is 2% bigger so you get around another 1 PSI of boost.
Can rent a puller from an autoparts store. Need some M6 x 30/40 bolts. Also need a high strength bolt to push off of. I used the 100mm bolt that ATI sends with the bolt kit to push against.
Can rent a puller from an autoparts store. Need some M6 x 30/40 bolts. Also need a high strength bolt to push off of. I used the 100mm bolt that ATI sends with the bolt kit to push against.
#11
I just put a new ATI on last week. Way has one that is 2% bigger so you get around another 1 PSI of boost.
Can rent a puller from an autoparts store. Need some M6 x 30/40 bolts. Also need a high strength bolt to push off of. I used the 100mm bolt that ATI sends with the bolt kit to push against.
Can rent a puller from an autoparts store. Need some M6 x 30/40 bolts. Also need a high strength bolt to push off of. I used the 100mm bolt that ATI sends with the bolt kit to push against.