need some help.. R53 JCW runs but no throttle, no codes..lately - North American Motoring


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need some help.. R53 JCW runs but no throttle, no codes..lately

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Old 08-28-2017, 12:30 PM
rksnow1 rksnow1 is offline
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need some help.. R53 JCW runs but no throttle, no codes..lately

hi, hoping someone out with more knowledge and experience then me can help. I recently picked up a 05 R53 JCW with 125k on it.. car was in decent shape but needed a SC rebuild. I decided to go Sprintex and the install was pretty straight forward. Car ran great for a few weeks and was incredibly quick. but soon after that the gremlins started in..

I started getting a CE light and pulled various codes over the next few days and not at the same time.. P1688, P1689, P0107, P1109, P0113, P1242, P1229, P0132, P0123, and P0222. From my research here I started with the easy stuff first,replacing plugs and wires, the MAP and TMAP sensors, checked vacuum lines and did the VGS mod while I was at it, checked IC boots for cracks and wear, rechecked all connections I may have touched. Next several days I got a CE/DSC light and car would go into limp mode at 3k RPMs, further research suggested bypass valve, replaced that.. still the same issue, limp mode once I hit 3k RPM. then finally yesterday the light and code went out..

Cool so I thought.. maybe something in the ECU needed time to reset.. but no...

I can go above 3kRPM but have no throttle, I see boost being build on the gauge and here the rpms but nothing happens.. thought.. OK, guess its the harmonic balancer after all.. Replaced that today.. still same result. car starts quick idles fine, drives but like it only has 15HP. I can go through the RPM range and no CE/DSC lights but just no power..

Any insight or direction to how to fix this or what else I should look into to fix it is appreciated.. I'm running out of money and time to put into the car and its my daily driver...

Thank you in advance
Ray
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Old 08-28-2017, 03:06 PM
CSP CSP is offline
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After looking through some threads, I see o2 sensor replacement, throttle position sensor, throttle body, and vacuum leaks. I think that's everything I saw. My car came with a sprintex, so I'm not entirely sure what all you had to remove from the front clip. I don't see how an o2 sensor would cause all of those, and I don't see that being just a coincidence. I'll try to think on this a bit, but hopefully the bump brings in someone more knowledgeable than me.
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Old 08-28-2017, 04:15 PM
r53coop r53coop is offline
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No pro here but : 0107 - manifold pressure, 0113 - air intake sensor, 0123 - throttle position sensor, 0132 - O2 sensor, 0222 - throttle position sensor, 1109 - MAP (see 1242) , 1229 - engine throttle system, 1242 - throttle system sticking or leaking air, 1688 - ETC monitor, 1689 - engine torque.

I would check all the connections to the throttle body, both electrical and air. I am thinking that the throttle issues are causing the O2 issues.
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:57 AM
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ItsmeWayne ItsmeWayne is offline
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One thing to consider, is the cam position sensor (I say this because when the cam position sensor goes out, the DSC will not reset until the cam position sensor is working)(it also often throws a bunch of other codes). If it is toast, often you will have no power. It is fairly easy to replace, but upper passenger engine mount needs removing.
It starts and runs up but no power. The DME does not know what to do without sensor inputs (also crank position sensor in front of engine)
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Old 08-29-2017, 02:37 PM
rksnow1 rksnow1 is offline
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Thanks guys! I got the dreaded DSC and CEL today on my way home from work and again went to limp mode.. codes this time round were the p0107 and P1688. Also ran really rough at idle this time, after retarting car it was still in limp mode but no rough idle.. drove home (staying under 3k RPM), and I checked all the connections to the Map/TMaps again and they were good. Its pouring rain now but if it lets up I will try and jocky cars around to get the Mini in the garage and look at the Throttle body again. I kinda think it may be in the area of the TB being everything was removed to upgrade the SC, I just cant seem to find it.. seems strange that it will work "almost" fine for a day or two then act up again if its a vac leak I think it would be consistant. Also ordered the Cam Position sensor today as it was cheap enough to rule out by replacing and will be here in 3 days.

Thanks again for the insight and keep it coming if anyone has other thoughts

Ray
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Old 08-29-2017, 02:40 PM
r53coop r53coop is offline
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You are a stock ECU tune?
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Old 08-29-2017, 02:47 PM
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ItsmeWayne ItsmeWayne is offline
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Hey Ray,
The cam position sensor goes out on many Mini Coopers. It is cheap and easy to replace, but make sure to get some electronic cleaner to spray on the contacts too!
Keep us posted on your efforts and hopefully its repair!
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:17 PM
rksnow1 rksnow1 is offline
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Hi, thanks for the replies. I am running a stock tune as far as I know. I just bought the car recently and no sign of any modules or data ports plugged in. The car ran great and was only parked after a light fender bender from my understanding as previous owner couldn't find a bumper replacement. It was really cosmetic and car started and idled fine when I looked at it but I didn't drive it as it sat. I decided to do the upgrade while I had it apart, Sprintex SC was installed for a few weeks so I don't think a tune is the culprit. The Sprintex is supposed to be fine on stock tune from what I was sold.

Probably something I missed aligned or didn't tighten enough when I did the install and worked its way loose after some driving... just haven't found it yet... one a plus note I can put the car in front end service mode almost with my eyes closed at this point

Hoping I get it sorted soon, getting tired of the wife telling me I should have bought something new..lol
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:26 PM
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Once you get it sorted out, you and wife will love it! You just got it, so give it a little time!
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:33 PM
r53coop r53coop is offline
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Check to see if the throttle body opens and closes easily. When I did some Cam/Tune work I took and sprayed carb cleaner down in the TB to get any build up off. The tune would be more P1685. I am thinking the TB plug has pins, check to make sure none got bent when you were removing.

Been seeing allot of occum's razor lately. Battery and the engine ground strap come to mind. One guy had issues with the trannie until he figured out he left a plug disconnected.
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:41 AM
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Hi, some updates but no resolution.. I installed a new bypass valve last week and and cam sensor as well. I clear the codes with my obd2 and after a day codes were back p1688 and p0107.. Rechecked all vacuum lines and plugs.. All seemed good. But still get in limp mode after a short drive. I ordered and installed a new throttle body 2 days ago and air filter while I was at it.. Ran good for 2 days then today in rush hour traffic.. LIMP mode Again!

Im out of ideas and almost out of cash at this point.

Few questions.. Is there any special programming that needs to bee redone after installing a new Throttle body? There was a sticker on throttle body that computer may need reset after install.. I assume this was just clearing the codes..Wanted to ask before going to the dealer and paying a fortune. With the mods (sprintex, k&n filter, VGS and appearance of my r53(still have busted bumper) I don't think the dealer well help much..

Are there any Mini garages or NAM members in the greater Philadelphia area that might be better to ask for help?

Really need some assistance
thanks
Ray
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Old 09-05-2017, 10:32 AM
Bytetronik Bytetronik is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rksnow1 View Post
Hi, some updates but no resolution.. I installed a new bypass valve last week and and cam sensor as well. I clear the codes with my obd2 and after a day codes were back p1688 and p0107.. Rechecked all vacuum lines and plugs.. All seemed good. But still get in limp mode after a short drive. I ordered and installed a new throttle body 2 days ago and air filter while I was at it.. Ran good for 2 days then today in rush hour traffic.. LIMP mode Again!

Im out of ideas and almost out of cash at this point.

Few questions.. Is there any special programming that needs to bee redone after installing a new Throttle body? There was a sticker on throttle body that computer may need reset after install.. I assume this was just clearing the codes..Wanted to ask before going to the dealer and paying a fortune. With the mods (sprintex, k&n filter, VGS and appearance of my r53(still have busted bumper) I don't think the dealer well help much..

Are there any Mini garages or NAM members in the greater Philadelphia area that might be better to ask for help?

Really need some assistance
thanks
Ray
Try disconnecting your battery and letting the car sit for about 10 minutes. Then reconnect the battery and see how that goes.

It would help if you have access to a BMW tool that can clear Adaptations.. or find someone local to your area who as FA53 Tuning kit, our tool can clear Adaptations using the BMW protocol.
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Old 09-05-2017, 11:58 AM
rksnow1 rksnow1 is offline
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hi, I pulled the battery and left it off for a few hours and still no luck. codes are there as soon as I restart. If I clear codes with my obd2 tool they come back as soon as the car is started. Getting P0107, P1688, pretty consitantly and P1237 as well today

Ill look into the FA53 Tuning kit and pricing.. if it can do more then the standard OBD2 scanner is it worth getting if I don't plan on doing any other mods for a while? This is really just going to be my daily driver for the foreseen future,

Is there a list of shops that deal with Mini anywhere? I didn't see anything on here but may have missed it. Looking for any shops or anyone in the Greater Philadelphia, Central NJ area that may be able to help out
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Old 09-07-2017, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rksnow1 View Post
hi, I pulled the battery and left it off for a few hours and still no luck. codes are there as soon as I restart. If I clear codes with my obd2 tool they come back as soon as the car is started. Getting P0107, P1688, pretty consitantly and P1237 as well today

Ill look into the FA53 Tuning kit and pricing.. if it can do more then the standard OBD2 scanner is it worth getting if I don't plan on doing any other mods for a while? This is really just going to be my daily driver for the foreseen future,

Is there a list of shops that deal with Mini anywhere? I didn't see anything on here but may have missed it. Looking for any shops or anyone in the Greater Philadelphia, Central NJ area that may be able to help out
Helix is in Philly, try looking them up
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Old 09-07-2017, 03:08 PM
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ItsmeWayne ItsmeWayne is offline
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P1237
Quote:
Originally Posted by adr3naline fix View Post
I had been trying to chase down the cause to my p1237 code for over a year. Jumping on the forums did nothing for me, being that none of the OPs would chime in once they had fixed the problem, and state the remedy. Well I'm going to post mine--for poor saps like me to stumble upon.

Code p1237 is "secondary upstream manifold air pressure sensor low input" and causes a SES light.

My fix: The sensor next to the airbox (upper left) had a severed wire. Simple as that. Bridge the gap with a new connection and the code disappeared.

Now your fix may not be as easy as mine, but this should be your very first step in your discovery.

Good Luck.
This was taken from a post here by Adr3analine fix
************************************************** *****
Link for P1688 code
https://bmw.oemdtc.com/108/dme-fault...-mini-cooper-s

************************************************** *****

P0107 Code
Before you go any further with this, you need to see if the harmonic balancer on the front of the crank is good. The two pieces attach with vucanized rubber core, which always goes bad.

you will not get a resolution to these codes until this is fixed (if it is bad)

I hope this gets you a good outcome.
Itsme Wayne
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Old 10-03-2017, 07:44 PM
rksnow1 rksnow1 is offline
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hello all, Ill try posting again.. my PC hates me tonight so hoping 3rd time is the charm..

Took my JCW to Helix in Philly.. they had the car for 2 weeks, found a misaligned pulley (looks like I didn't get the harmonic balancer seated completely when I changed it)and changed the drive belt, also replaced the cam sensor.. I just replaced this a week ago but then said it was a defective unit and replaced it again.. $500 and 2 weeks later they said the car was running great.. took it home and she did run good.. for 3 days.. then on my way to work, hit 5500RPM in 4th gear and sent the car into limp mode and dash lights came on.. finally got to work and check the codes... same P1688 and P0107 as before I took it into shop..

Looked under the hood for the first time since I picked her up and found the boost gauge had a open vacuum T from when they rerouted the lines(they didn't like the VGS mod I did and routed back to stockish..) and another clamp by the TB that wasn't tight.. Not happy seeing this overlooked but I don't think this caused the Limp mode code to trigger.. Tim at helix told me to bring the car by to be scanned but I don't think I can make the hour plus drive in heavy traffic with limp mode again...

Any thoughts what else I can check? to date this is what I have replaced..
new crank sensor, new cam sensor(twice), new Map and TMap sensors, new plugs, spark plug wires, new harmonic balancer, new bypass valve, new throttle body, new K&N air filter in stock airbox. new vacuum lines, Helix checked vacuum and smoke tested and said no leaks found, and replaced main pulley belt... I thought I saw a TSB for an electrical issue that caused Limp mode as well but cant located it now...
Any suggestions on what to look at next or any enthusiasts in the greater Philly area that may want to help me out or work for beer?
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Old 10-06-2017, 06:21 AM
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ItsmeWayne ItsmeWayne is offline
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Buy a Carista, or Blue driver OBD II blue tooth device for your (smart) cell phone. The cost for the Blue driver is around $100. You can scan your car and it may direct you to te fault that is keeping your car in limp mode. It will give you suggestions to look at and can go online to help you sort out your car.
It sounds like you have done a lot of replacing and have not identified the problem yet.

I am sorry you have had this nightmare for so long! Best of luck on getting your car sorted out!
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:13 PM
rksnow1 rksnow1 is offline
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Thanks Wayne, I have an elm obd2 and another obd2 scanner. Both give me the same codes.. Unless the blue driver is mini bmw specific and let's me reset/reprogram the dme I don't think I'll see a difference.. Even Helix in Philly pulled the same codes I did and came to similar conclusions. They thought they fixed it with the cam sensor again and thoroughly road tested but 3 days later after getting her back and no luck again.. I just did a visual inspection of the wiring harness under the hood and didn't find any breaks. Smoke tests say vacuum had no leaks, TB,bypass valve, SC, are new.
Tested the majority of wires for continuity and all look good..

Saw a few TSB's and posts about faulty software in the DME that needs updating... I'm leaning towards that. But saw a few of the same posts saying jcw might need a specific program and most dealers didn't have a fix loaded.. Mini dealer by me joust closed so my options are decreasing..

I saw a few plug In tuners online that rewrite the dme for performance.. I think I may need to research that route a bit more and see if anything can get rid of certain codes from memory that seen to keep tripping the egg .. Anyone know of one that figured out these programming errors?

After my, and the shops extensive mechanical rundown it has to be electronic or programming In my opinion..

I could be wrong. Codes don't go alway on there owns but I don't think its mechanical, it runs great for a few days to a week each time before tripping the limp mode..

Any thoughts are welcome.. The wife's I told you sos' are getting louder..lol
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:52 PM
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Also not an expert on this, but I did just deal with a plethora of 1688 and 1077's this summer. Mine had a particularly funky behavior, but only when on really light throttle while holding speed in a gear. In that situation, it would buck/kick/burp around for a few seconds and then....THUNK. EML+SES lights.

I don't know if your symptoms are similar, but you're sort of running out of parts to replace, so try this little troubleshooting trick. My understanding is that in MAP/TMAP BMW's, if you unplug a MAP sensor, the car defaults to some alternate way of determining air-fuel (speed-density?). So if you unplug one, and it fixes the problem, you know which sensor is causing the issue. I know you've replaced them already, but the same thing happened to me. I replaced my TMAP at Mini North Scottsdale before my trip, and the TMAP was the culprit 2,000 miles later, at Mini of Portland.

1. With the car turned off, unplug the MAP sensor and go for a drive.
a. If it fixes it, plug the MAP sensor back in and order a new one.
b. If it doesn't fix it, plug the MAP sensor back in and continue to step 2.
2. With the car turned off, unplug the TMAP sensor and go for a drive.
a. If it fixes it, plug the TMAP sensor back in and order a new one.

If that doesn't fix it, the last big guess I have is the boost tube (that horizontal black tube that the BPV & TB attach to). They have a tendency to crack, and the gasket is utter *****. Did you perchance already replace that green intake gasket when you replaced the supercharger?

Additionally, check that the three hard plastic lines (and their associated clips) that plug into the boost tube are intact.

Good luck man!!! And don't let the wife get to ya--she'll be giggling like a child once your poor MINI is back on its feet.
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