Hi folks...

Subject says it all.

2009 R56.

About 6 months ago...every now and then I'd get a rough idle...it would go away immediately or in a few minutes. The code would be:

cylinder 1 misfire
(never got a check engine light)

A few days ago, the rough idling became more prominent and now won't go away at all. The codes are now:

cylinder 1, 2, and 3 misfire (3 separate codes)
multiple cylinder misfire
(AND I get a check engine light)

I have no power loss that I can tell. It just idles rough.

And...

If I idle more than 30 seconds (?), when I pull away from a stoplight there is a puff of blue smoke.

I've been reading the forums but haven't found an exact match yet as to what the problem might be, and how expensive to fix.

Thanks...

--

Bill

 

Blue smoke is typically oil. With multiple misfires, I suspect worse case, a stuck valve... Possible head job. You can get a microscopic camera to check.

 

Thanks Enduser...it'll be going into the shop on Tuesday for a diagnosis. I used to do lots of work on my MINI, but where I live now make that difficult.

Perhaps a dumb question...

How would (what is probably) a single stuck valve result in MULTIPLE cylinder misfires?

Also, is there perhaps an additive that just might UNstick a valve?

Thanks...

--

Bill

 

So I thought I'd try a "full treatment" of Sea Foam...yep, I know some people say it's basically a scam...anyway...so far...it WORKED.

I put 16oz in the tank, 5oz in the crankcase, and sprayed a full bottle in the air intake.

Rough idle is gone. The next few days will tell the tale.

In the mean time, the below link sounds more like my problem(?), as the rough idle only happened with a WARM engine...esp when coming off the interstate for some reason.

Maybe the Sea Foam cleaned the Vanos solenoids?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...solenoids.html

 

if the seafoam worked, my guess you have carbon build up and it time for cleaning.

to me when it comes to Minis, there is no stuck valve. it is either bent or fine.

when you get time, remove the intake manifold and look through.

 

OK...well...it didn't work.

But my symptoms have boiled down to this...

1) Cold engine: idle fine

2) Warm engine: (and weirdly, most especially after coming off a few minutes on the interstate), rough/stumbling idle.

However, if I have the air conditioning on when idling (and perhaps the computer changes the air/fuel ratio, and increases RPM a bit?), I do NOT get the rough idle. I'll research this more today, turning the A/C on and off...making sure I can consistently recreate the behavior.

I haven't seen blue smoke in the last few days (since the Sea Foam), nor have any codes reappeared.

 

with that mileage, i think the carbon build up is through the roof. take the intake out and inspect. also, do a scan even if there is no CEL.

 

When the issue first presented itself, the CEL did not illuminate...I did a scan, and got "cylinder 1 misfire".

As the issue got worse over a period of a couple months, finally the CEL came on...but even then, only sometimes...maybe it's the "multiple/random" cylinder misfire that sets off the CEL?

So yes, I check codes even when the CEL doesn't light.

Anyway, car is in the shop...MINI service (local shop, not dealer), in San Luis Obispo. They say they are MINI (and Mini) experts...hopefully they'll find something.

 

Let us know what they find. Hopefully something simple.

 

before you spend a small fortune in diag at a shop- pull the coils and plugs and put a scope on top of each piston. If the rings are broken or piston tops chipped- you'll know where you stand quickly. If it looks ok in there, the car would certainly benefit from new ones.
I am amazed at how many people
come back from dealer and repair shop with spark plugs that are loose! Make sure that the washer on each plug is compressed when installed. Usually a 1/4 turn past hand tight will snug them up. I use a touch of antiseize. Many people do not. Do what you are comfortable with and you'll get a " feel for it" with practice. Proper socket and high quality wrachet will yield positive results!!
Good luck and post up your findings!

 

Thanks guys...

The shop has had it since Friday...probably haven't done anything last 3 days over the holiday weekend.

I know they put in new spark plugs (said they were pretty black), and then moved the coils around to see if the misfire codes would also move...they hadn't as of Friday afternoon. So in other words, sounds like coils and plugs are good.

This shop is pretty fair about diagnoses charges...we'll see. Updates to follow.

 

How many miles? Do you have to add oil? From a previous post, I would also guess carbon build up on the intake valves as the n14 engine is notorious for this build up.

 

168k miles.

Intake valves... I wonder how much to "de-carbon"?

 

If it's never been done, you are WAY past due. I've seen members here quote around $300 at an independent to $700 or more at a dealer..

 

AZ...

So what procedure am I asking to have done? "Clean intake valves"?

Thanks...

--

Bill

 

Walnut blast the intake valves. Call around for quotes, very common process on the n14 engine..

 

OK...got it...thanks.

--

Bill

 

Dealer in my area is $350. Worth every penny IMO.

 

R56...

"Worth every penny"...in what way?

Of course I understand cleaning is necc from time to time, but you seem to be saying it's worth having done for other reasons?

Thanks....

Bill

 

The car starts better, better mileage and crisper at WOT. Hot starts are also quicker without delay. With the intake off and a scope or video- You can see exactly what the condition is. It gave me peace of mind. I had it done at 28k and again at 55k. I never had a CEL or major issue- the car just seemed lazy and didn't feel fresh. It was noticeable improvement.
And while it is s DYI with all the tools readily available- I opted for the dealer visit and free new loaner car for the day. No regrets. Money well spent for me.

 

Called the shop...asked about a walnut blast. They said carbon buildup on the intake valves would not be a problem with my car as my 2009 non-turbo does NOT have direct injection.

I've been reading up on this and have come across conflicting information...people say:

1) ALL 2007+ engines are direct injection (and therefor ALL susceptible to carbon buildup, thought the turbo engine gets it much worse), or

2) The non-turbo engine (N12?) is NOT direct injection and therefor experiences little if ANY carbon buildup...or at least not enough to cause a problem.

So...which is it? (Geez I feel like a noob.)

--

Bill

 

Take a look at the illustrated parts list --- http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select . Either use the last few characters of your VIN or select your car from the options. The fuel system page will have the info you want.

 

That's a neat site...thanks.

So there's a possibility that certain 2009 non-turbo R56's have direct injection, and some do not?

Thanks...

--

Bill

 

so if your car is not turbo you need not worry about the build up. I would suggest checking the timing, clean the vanos, and get compression values.

 

Maybe I missed it, is your car an auto or manual? There are situations with the auto transmission that create misfire codes, as one that is failing causes vibrations that trip misfire codes.

When the wrench pulled the plugs - what did the top of the pistons look like?