Hi recently my mini has been taking a hair long to start (longer turnover time) and very recently starts then shuts off but when go to start again it starts up first turnover...but I also have limited it down to that when I am at 80-100% throttle it cuts out and every cut out it back fires from the exhaust like i am reving it in neutral quick but this is when i have WOT. It mostly happens after 3k rpm but if I slowly or gradualy reach like 5k rpm never cuts out and doesnt matter what gear i am in.

I am not sure if the fuel pump is bad, spark plugs (changed not to long ago), injectors, or something else.

I also notice when idle it runs a little rough or almost dies sometimes.

I have alta cool air intake, msd coil pack, 17% pulley

could it be backfiring from the belt slipping and is this a sign of the belt slipping as I have one size to BIG of belt on atm.

Thanks

 

Have you checked your coil pack? My R53 would "skip" under throttle around 3-4k.

 

Would you mean like check for corrosion because I don't have any codes or CEL and runs just fine other then idle and full throttle so I don't know if checking with an ohm letter will do anything but I'll see if it's dirty on the terminals

 

So I check terminals all clean and good I want to add that today on my way to work I noticed when the engine is under 50% operating temp it does not cut out but it does once the engine is warm...so it must be a valve somewhere not letting enough air in or something with the injectors or injector pressure regulator
thanks

 

Just because the terminals are clean does not mean the coil pack or plug wires are shot. How many miles on the coil and wires?

And yes, I am thinking you will not get codes if the coil pack is going.

 

Ok that's makes sense with no codes now is there any way to check the cool pack as that is something I wanna replace if it's not bad but the wires or spark plugs could be to but I have no idea on the miles as I bought it used with 120k on the clock.

and did check again it does run rough ideal when engine is hot and cold but doesn't cut out when full throttle when cold only when hot so I was thinking it has something to do with the air it's taking in but you may be right if there's a way I can check

 

My R53 started "skipping" on throttle. I am thinking at the time I found something here on NAM about the coil pack. Changed the pack, went with a OEM type, and put new plug wires on. No more skipping.

If you change, be sure to note that there are rubber washers both top and bottom of the bolts. Also, be careful on tightening the bolts as too much and you can crack the valve cover.

 

ok so this is what I have now from previous owner and this is what else I found similar I think to OEM.



Now what am I gaining from having this better coil pack and should I buy new plugs as well and spark plugs?

Thanks if this isnt the problem can always send them back to amazon

 

I have heard some mixed reviews on the "red" coil pack and I did not use one on my R53.

Long distance diagnostics is not the best. You noted a problem, I had what I thought was something similar on my previous MINI. I look at things as how much is it going to cost me to take to a shop vs buying what I think is the problem and doing myself. On the R53 I was reasonably sure the coil and wires were original. I changed plugs when I put a 15% pulley on that happened to be about a week before I started getting skipping. I had around 50k on the car so after reading some posts here bought a coil pack, cannot remember what type but not the red nor a OEM, and some new plug wires. Put the stuff on and the issue was gone. There are those that swear by nothing but OEM and others that have no issues with aftermarket.

As far as what do you get out an "upgraded" coil, I will let others chime in.

 

My dad mentioned to me could it be the catalytic converter/ manifold as it only happens when Everything is hot and up to temp... maybe this would explain the droning I get from that part of the car at 3k rpm???

 

I am thinking a worn out CAT would throw some codes.

 

The next time you get the bad idle, start pulling plug wires (here coil packs). If one cylinder does not affect the idle, that is the bad one.

Also, what plugs? Make sure they are relatively fresh and the correct heat range and kind. Since you have to pull them to check, I would be prepared to just replace the set since yours have unknown miles.


Regards
Jerry

 

ok well maybe I will do this I will try first check in the morning, then replace the plugs, if that doesnt work maybe ill have to buy new coil pack and wires. and if not that then ill look into the cat converter.

also could timing be off??

 

ok well taking out plugs was useless as it does not misfire every time only everyonce in a while on idle just for one time though so theres no way for me to find that out for sure. I guess I will buy some new plugs but I am willing to bet it is exhaust related as I bought used Stock "S" exhaust and it only happens when up to temp.

and maybe no codes because its in the mufflers?? to much back pressure maybe

 

I just want to add a few points.

If your coilpak is indeed the source of your misfiring at idle, or at WOT, it is likely intermittent, or some internal windings developed short or near short. There is no simple way to test even for the experts. Remember it is a step up transformer making high voltage. Cheap aftermarket "performance" coilpak can be poorly constructed, with inferior dielectric material that breaks down from heat, vibration, age etc. For me most of these are snake oil. Note that the stock coilpak has shock mount. I would stay with OE replacement, and especially ignition wires. I like NGK especially with their no nonsense FAQs.

Cold starting is open loop. The O2 sensors are not use so hard starting and initial rough idle cannot be explained away with bad exhaust unless it is severely plugged/clogged.

 

OK thanks for your info, I have some NGK spark plugs on the way and will be replacing them tuesday... these are correct I believe.

NGK (3199) BKR6EQUP

So if this doesnt work I want to go to wires then coil pack next what are some you recommond more specificaly for the coil pack and also for the wires,

I did just run half a can of seafoam through the PCV valve and it smoked how it should and I think helped the idle but now still have the problem of cutting/ bogging down at WOT

Thanks again everyone

 

If you have a reduction pulley, I think you want BKR7EQUP. But it makes no difference with the cause of your problem.

I am still amazed why anyone would think engine additive would do any good, but it is me.

 

well it helped the idle problem...

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ighlight=parts

Similar thread..

 

So the factory trained Mini mechanic replaced the entire engine, only to later realize it was the coil pack.

That is why I am the only untrained mechanic allowed to work on my Mini.

 

I should clarify by OE coil pack, I meant OEM. Often the auto manufacturer uses more than one OEM company to supply a given part. For the coil park you have to do some research if you want to save some money. It take some educated intuition to figure which is/are OEM. I think they are around $50. For the ignition cables, I think you are safe to get the generic NGK for R53 Mini.

 

here are my options on the pack I can pick up these first 2 today if you recomend either (dont know if I am a huge fan of duralast but maybe its fine)

http://www.autozone.com/ignition-tun...l=cooper&year=

http://www.autozone.com/ignition-tun...l=cooper&year=


Then this is the one I found a few days ago on Amazon and would have it the same day as my wires and plugs


let me know which is my best option thanks for the help.

and according to that thread looks like if its not this my engine is.......

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHIC49

 

I spent considerable times this morning surveying replacement coil packs for the Mini at many vendors. My conclusion is if you want the true OEM the genuine MINI one is the only choice. There are at least 10 brands, including one German sounding brand but looks suspicious Chinese fall into the same generic cheap aftermarket replacement bucket. So too are all the ones you listed. I have no reason to suspect any of these would not be serviceable.

As your objective is to determine if the coil pack is responsible for your rough running and misfire I don't think which you go with will make any difference. If it turns out the coil pack is not the cause, you would still have your red MSD.

 

As I have pointed out. The stock coil pack is has rubber bushings serving as shock mounts. This is done to guard against the coils from failure due to mechanical fatigue. Many of these cheap aftermarket ones simply did away with this feature is one of many reasons I will never replace my good stock pack with aftermarket one.