Long crank to start after filling gas tank, and stumbles then runs fine.
#1
Long crank to start after filling gas tank, and stumbles then runs fine.
2007 MCS 112,000 miles. When I start the mini after getting fuel it will take a lot more cranks until it starts and stumbles. After that it starts fine every time even after a week or more. I did find the purge valve bad and replace but still hard start after fueling/gassing up. I've replaced the fuel filter and have checked lines in tank and replaced fuel pump with new. The HPFP was replaced under the 10 year 120,000 warranty. The purge valve was used but sounded good with test on ISTA/D and couldn't blow through it.
My next step was to get a five gallon fuel can fill the Mini with the purge valve disconnected.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?
My next step was to get a five gallon fuel can fill the Mini with the purge valve disconnected.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?
#3
#4
Do you try to get every last drop of fuel in your tank after the nozzle "clicks"? I had the
same problem as you with another car I owned. I found out that every car has an over-
flow canister that catches any fuel that the tank can't hold. When this canister gets full
you will for whatever reason have an initial hard start. Don't ask me why.
same problem as you with another car I owned. I found out that every car has an over-
flow canister that catches any fuel that the tank can't hold. When this canister gets full
you will for whatever reason have an initial hard start. Don't ask me why.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
I need to replace the purge valve (part number 13907624538) on my wife's 2010 Mini Coupe. You state it's located under the intake manifold. Does the intake manifold need to come off to get at it?
#10
No the manifold doesn’t need to come off but it will be extremely difficult to disconnect everything. Because you can’t see it. If you do remove the manifold there is a 10 mm bolt underneath the throttlebody which you can’t see that either you can access it from the passenger side from above. The manifold doesn’t need to be completely removed just lifted off the head and tilted back to access the purge valve.
#11
Thanks. Hmm. I guess I need some detailed instructions on how to remove the intake manifold. Can someone point me to a thread? I’m used to the old school 50’s and 60’s cars. They don’t have all these plastic panels hiding stuff like in these cars. Ugh.
No the manifold doesn’t need to come off but it will be extremely difficult to disconnect everything. Because you can’t see it. If you do remove the manifold there is a 10 mm bolt underneath the throttlebody which you can’t see that either you can access it from the passenger side from above. The manifold doesn’t need to be completely removed just lifted off the head and tilted back to access the purge valve.
#13
Thanks. So far I've got the airbox off. Found a thin black hose under the big air intake inlet hose on the right of the engine (facing the engine from teh front of the car). One end is connected to a thin pipe, but the other curved end isn't connected to anything. You can see the thin black hose in center of this photo:
Should it be connected to something or is it some kind of drain?
Should it be connected to something or is it some kind of drain?