can't remove rear engine mount
 

I'm trying to remove the rear engine mount, the one under the car. The horizontal bolt came out easily; the vertical one does not yield to liquid wrench and impact tool, or wrench and hammer. I'm about to put a mammoth breaker bar on it, but before I do that, is there a better way? If I break that bolt off, I'll be in real deep @@@@. I've about got the axle out (passenger side), so I'll be able to get to the top of the bolt a little easier, but other than pouring more stuff on it, I'm not sure what to do. I'd not like to get going down there with a torch.

Is it frozen in the bushing, maybe? At the top, or on the flat locking bolt head?

(I'm trying to do this to get access to the air conditioner compressor, by tilting the engine back slightly. Also, when I discovered the outer CV joint boot was split, I've enlarged the task to include replacing that, too.)

2003 Mini Cooper, 70,000 northeastern ungaraged miles.

The bolt is seized in the sleeve, the sleeve is aluminum and the bolt is steel.

We cut the mount off the sleeve, then super heat the sleeve with a torch, grab the sleeve with a large pair of pliers and hit the bolt with an impact. It sucks, we have to do it with near every car we end up having to remove the whole mount on in MI.

Nick would know, could you possibly get enough room by removing the axle & carrier, plus the mount from the engine itself?

Why not just put the car in service mode and save yourself the hassle of messing with that mount? If you're replacing the AC compressor putting the car in service mode gives you plenty of room without having to MF!!!!! any broken bolts. :thumbsup:

Do this!

Since you have an impact available you should be able to make short work of most of the large screws and nuts in your way.

there are impacts and there are impacts
 

When I picked up an impact wrench to replace the Northern Tools pos I had, I balanced affordability and performance. I may have erred on the side of affordability. But, it works on smaller stuff, and the 3/4 inch breaker bar has handled the larger stuff. Except for the motor mount, which remains proudly in place.

The tip about service mode was invaluable. i never knew there was such a thing. It seems that "half service mode" will let me get the access I need. (passenger side slides out, the drivers side is just loose in place.) I'm delaying restarting the project by writing this, because it is really warm out there. My shade tree was cut down.

That's exact what I did to remove the compressor as well and it worked perfectly. It is a little tight in there but I wedged a towel to maintain as much clearance as possible. Take a look at a fit so you know where all the connectors are.

Rear engine mount and AC repair
 

Thanks to you guys here, I got my air conditioner compressor down (the real goal) by forgetting about the rear engine mount and using the service mode procedure. Now that it's down and disassembled, I find that the clutch magnet is the wrong size! The last service that replaced that compressor apparently used a Chinese part that matched the mounts, but not the internals.

Now, I've got to try and track down a part that will fit. Any hints?

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...da7ff8c151.jpg

Now, I've got to try and track down a part that will fit. Any hints?

Yep, don't buy another "Made in China" compressor.

My trusted mechanic did that install for me, in 2013. The compressor was listed on my bill for $659. That's not today's price. It sounds like there was a hefty Chinese markup involved, though.

We have quality OE aftermarket compressors on hand, we usually recommend sticking to an OE aftermarket option for the same reason you're taking it back off. :sad: