R56 Engine Oil Pump replacement
 

I need to replace the oil pump in my 2008 R56 Mini Cooper.
Does anyone have a DIY for it or has done it before?

It seems like physically taking it off involves only 3 bolts but I am concerned about how to handle the chain going up to the engine.

I searched for DIY's but every thread talking about it then goes to someone saying that the oil pump is not the issue and something else needs to be done.

In my case the oil pump definitely needs to be replaced, as part of it is physically broken off. See attached picture. The piece in the red circle has broken off. The bolt itself is still connected to the top, but seems like it is completely separated from the oil pump at this point. The engine noise is louder than usual, I figure that the pump is vibrating and potentially causing some slack in the chain.

Thanks everybody!

When I rebuilt my '07 MCS last year, the oil pump wasn't replaced, but just removed, cleaned, and re-installed. There should be no issues with the oil pump drive chain --- it isn't "timed" to anything like the main drive chain.

Hope you can find all the loose pieces before re-assembly ---

That sounds great! Do you remember how it is taken off from the chain?
I found the parts already, they were all in the oil pan

Per the Bentley manual, Pg 119-13, disconnect from the sprocket first, then the three mounting bolts. Might have to "counter-hold" the crank center bolt to loosen the sprocket. Note the sprocket mounting bolt is TTY (stretch) and should NOT be re-used.

If you don't already have the Bentley manual, you should consider getting one --- torque specs, tightening sequence, etc. An invaluable tool when doing your own work.

Take the center bolt out of the oil pump gear. Manipulate it off or loose. Remove the 3 bolts.
Down it comes. No need to take the crankshaft balancer bolt loose. It'll come down.
First, drop the down pipe to make it easier or there's one oil pan bolt that will cross thread.
Then the oil pan. Extremely thin coat of black silicone when it goes back up. Gently snug the bolts.

The Bentley Manual here goes over the oil pmp removing and installing for your MC on page 119-13. If you plan to work on your MINI it's a good investment. You might be able to have someone send you some screen shots of it for this job as well. It'll give you tightening torque specs and more. Oil pump and parts here if needed.

Ok, that does not sound nearly as complicated as I imagined!
I will see if I can post a DIY when doing the replacement. Waiting for parts now.

oil pump sprocket bolt removal
 

which tool is required? I've tried different size torx, etorx, hex, and splined bits. nothing fits. is it a specialty tool??? any help would be appreciated!

Torx 45
 

The socket needed to remove the oil pump drive sproket and the oil pump assembly is all the same, you need a T-45 (Torx 45) socket!

Counter-hold the main crankshaft 18mm bolt (get someone to do it) while you break loose the sproket bolt! Then you can remove the whole oil pump assembly by undoing the 3 bolts (same socket size as the sprocket bolt you just removed) by using a breaker bar (they are pretty tight) (get someone to “catch” the oil pump because is heavy and it can fall before unscrewing the three bolts holding it)

Good luck
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...f1285136d.jpeg

End of story?
 

Im DIYing the timing chain job on my MCS08 (guide broke, chain skipped tooth, valves bent)

today i removed the oil pan in order to look for debris in the oil pump pickup mesh, and as excepted i found metal and plastic shavings stuck right there, but guess what!!! I found my oil pump assembly broke at exactly the area you circled above!

Did you get the whole pump replaced? Tomorrow i’ll take it to a welding shop to see if they can fix it!

also found slack on the chain driving the oil pump, do you know, how much slack is normal?

Thanks in advance

Need oil pump sprocket bolt torque specs, would buy Bentley manual but selling Mini due to needing funds, so can anyone help with torque specs?

These are TTY bolts --- use new ones.
Specs good for N12, N14, N16, N18
Stage 1 = 5Nm (44 in-lbs)
Stage 2 = additional 90 deg