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-   -   R52 Engine cranks, will not start. Any common culprits? (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/293798-r52-engine-cranks-will-not-start-any-common-culprits.html)

dutchhome 09-29-2015 06:31 AM

R52 Engine cranks, will not start. Any common culprits?
 
2005 MCS Convertible

Quick backstory:

Been running for a while with a check engine light that seems to come and go. Finally got around to changing the oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, and spark plugs. One of the old spark plugs was pretty black and ugly. After this work was done the car drove so much nicer than it was.

Eventually the check engine light returned. I tried the INPA install I use for my BMWs, but it didn't seem to recognize the R52. Tracked down the latest version floating around the web and finally was able to read the error codes two nights ago - cyllinder 3 misfires detected. I cleared the code.

Yesterday morning the car wouldn't turn over - dead battery. Figured that playing around with INPA with the doors open may have drained it a bit too much, although we did start the car several times checking out the various sensors.

Charged the battery last night and now it seems to crank ok, but it doesn't want to start.

I didn't have my laptop last night to see what the car has to say for itself, but I imagine the problem has to be either fuel pump, injectors, wiring issue, spark plugs, ??. My plan is to pull the spark plugs and see what they look like and of course check the computer. Based on my situation, can anyone recommend the best sequence to run through to check the rest out? Are there any common culprits that jump out? Just bought this MCS over the summer so I'm still very much a noob on this thing.

Thanks.

Helix13mini 09-29-2015 06:34 AM

Is it cranking with absolutely no ignition at all? Did you disconnect the engine ground?

dutchhome 09-29-2015 06:38 AM

Wow, quick response.. Thanks.

No, we did not disconnect the engine ground. I can't tell by listening to it if it is igniting. Sounds like a normal crank just without the final bursting into life bit.

PelicanParts.com 09-29-2015 09:17 AM

Good suggestion above, in this thread here they point out a few things like the ground strap from the engine mount was loose or maybe even a possible ignition switch issue. Post #26 has more info on the ignition switch, but he wasn't getting anything when turning the key. May not be your issue, but you can check it out and see if this may be helpful to you in your diagnosis.

quikmni 09-29-2015 09:45 AM

Probably will not help your not starting problem but for your misfires, I would check the coil terminals and spark plug wires at the coil terminals. It is common for the coil terminals to corrode. You can clean the coil terminals with wet/dry sand paper. If the spark plugs wires are badly corroded you may just need to replace them because it is hard to get them clean. If wires are OK just add some dielectric grease at the connection and reinstall.

dutchhome 09-29-2015 10:51 AM

Thank you both.

I'm pretty sure the ground wire can't be the issue since it is cranking fine. I assume the starter wouldn't move at all if if the ground wasn't connected.

The coil terminals and spark plug wires tip is a good one.. This is the sort of thing I was looking for. Common known issues involved in the starting process.

Still interested in other suggestions. Any good write ups on testing fuel pump, spark plugs, injectors on the mini? Or rather any gotchas that I should be aware of?

Thanks again.

PelicanParts.com 09-29-2015 11:19 AM

I know you charged the battery, just want to make sure all bases are covered, but be sure to test it to completely rule it out of the equation. Some info here. Here is our fuel pump DIY with some good info on signs of a bad pump in the first 2 paragraphs. This guy's issue here ended up being the pump. This NAM thread here ended up being plugs, I know you said you just replaced yours. Wires is a great suggestion if you didn't replace those at the same time as the plugs as you want to replace the spark plug wires every 30,000 miles or if they look cracked or worn out. (Plug/wire DIY here with some info). Maybe someone else will have some more information for you as well. Good luck.

dutchhome 09-29-2015 11:53 AM

Excellent info here. Thanks a lot. I think I have plenty to look at tonight when I get home. Also ordering the spark plug wires now since I have no clue how long they've been on there and I already know there is some misfiring going on. Will update this thread when I find out what is going on.

quikmni 09-29-2015 12:00 PM

If getting wires, you might want to think about a new coil with copper terminals that will not corrode. Also if you were getting misfires, your plugs probably need to be replaced again. Maybe think about a whole kit such as this from WMW:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ignition-package.html

dutchhome 09-29-2015 12:38 PM

Thanks. I usually like to stay pretty stock, but since this is a common problem I suppose upgrading rather than replacing the coil + wires might be in order. I'm not familiar with WMW though. Is this is a quality kit? Or were you showing this as an example?

quikmni 09-29-2015 12:57 PM

The WMW kit is a good quality kit ($175). It is what I use on my 2006 JCW GP. Using stock wires is fine but I wanted to add a little bling with red wires (no performance difference). I use NGK plugs.

I would use a different than stock coil, such as a coil with copper terminals (Beru or Demon). I would suggest against the MSD coil because it does not fit well without different bolts that are hard to find (I previously had MSD).

Another good option and more OEM is one of the ECS Tuning ignition kit ($125):
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-...ion/ES2581719/
Get this one with the Beru coil (copper terminals) not the kit with OEM coil.

PelicanParts.com 09-29-2015 01:15 PM

We have kits here as well for $121 with NGK plugs, Beru (OEM supplier) coil and wires. Otherwise, Beru wires here and use promo code COOPER at check out for the wires for a 10% discount. :thumbsup:

quikmni 09-29-2015 01:29 PM

Pelican, thanks for also posting this great option.
I should have looked in more detail at your website to find the details on the brands in the kit so I could have included the option along with WMW and ECS.

PelicanParts.com 09-29-2015 01:45 PM


Originally Posted by quikmni (Post 4128984)
Pelican, thanks for also posting this great option.
I should have looked in more detail at your website to find the details on the brands in the kit so I could have included the option along with WMW and ECS.

You're very welcome! Both are great supporting vendors of this forum as well. :thumbsup:

ECSTuning 09-29-2015 01:48 PM


Originally Posted by quikmni (Post 4128961)
The WMW kit is a good quality kit ($175). It is what I use on my 2006 JCW GP. Using stock wires is fine but I wanted to add a little bling with red wires (no performance difference). I use NGK plugs.

I would use a different than stock coil, such as a coil with copper terminals (Beru or Demon). I would suggest against the MSD coil because it does not fit well without different bolts that are hard to find (I previously had MSD).

Another good option and more OEM is one of the ECS Tuning ignition kit ($125):
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-...ion/ES2581719/
Get this one with the Beru coil (copper terminals) not the kit with OEM coil.

Thanks for the mention. Most coils don't have anymore power , they are rated the same except for a few, big thing is to put the dielectical grease on the post so they will not corrode down the road. Its a typical thing on the exposed metal coil posts.


If you need anything let me know. :)

dutchhome 09-30-2015 07:17 AM

Thank you all for your help. I can happily report that the MINI lives again :)

The coil pack was definitely looking pretty ugly. Every one of the tips were covered in some corrosion and a couple of the wires looked bad too. I ended up ordering the WMW kit quikmni recommended and should have it this weekend for a quick replacement.

The problem that caught me dead in my tracks turned out to be the immobilizer. I suppose I should do some research on it since I don't quite understand how it works. I do know that once I reset the Immobilizer seed in INPA, the engine started up fine. Could the drained battery have caused it to lock me out? Or must I have done something bad to make it happen?

BTW, I did clean up the coil pack tips with a wire brush just to get them looking better for now and it really made a big difference. Originally the car seemed to act like the clutch was slipping, but it was probably a combination of the misfiring and the supercharger trying to make up for the loss of power. After seeing what a clutch replacement looks like on these cars I'm very happy that wasn't the problem. :eek2:


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