I've been having trouble shifting lately and the problem is somewhat inconsistent. It was suggested here that I have the cables lubed, so I had that done. It seemed to improve things, but it did not last and now I am back where I started with my mechanic suggesting it might be the clutch beginning to go.

My issue is that getting it into gear (especially R/1/3/) can take a bit of force. Double clutching does not seem to help. There is no grinding of gears and the clutch feels normal. I can stop on a hill and get going again just fine.

How do I test my clutch to see if it is okay?

What else should I check to resolve the shifting issue?

Thanks.

Dean.

 

So... getting the car into gear generally is not the clutch.... unless its totally shot...

To test the grip of the clutch, try this.

Set parking brake.

Put car in 3rd gear (yes 3rd).

Raise engine to 2000 RPM.. hold it.. Slowly let out clutch.. car should stall... Dont give the car more gas to keep the revs up.. let it stall, that is the point.

If that is ok, then... you may have an issue with air in the slave/master cylinder of the clutch... however this would happen in all gears... since you have an issue with just SOME gears.. I suspect the shifter cable/linkage may be the issue. If the lube helped... but now its the same... I'd suspect the lube dried out... try something else?

 

Thanks Dan.

I just tried your clutch test and the car stalled.

I also just noticed that with the engine off, the stick glides easily through all gears. But, when I start the car, then it gets tough. Reverse and first are the worst offenders, then third and occasionally second.

It was only three weeks between getting the cables lubed, having an improvement and then being back where I started. Maybe they did a poor job?

Should I consider having the cables replaced?

Thanks again.

Dean.

 

Yea, my guess is the lube either dried out... Or pulled more dirt in..

I'd try removing the cables and running a dry type lube with graphite in it.... Or replace them... You never know.., I've seen brake and shift cables get water.. Then rust in them which just makes things awful..

And now at least you know the clutch is not bad..

 

Thanks Dan.

Replacing cables will be a lot cheaper than replacing a clutch.

Dean.

 

I second replacing the cables...
Sounds odd that it is r-1-3....
Sounds like a cable issue to me.

 

Also, try changing your gear oil. It's pretty cheap and easy, and a lot of people neglect to do it.

 

I changed my gear oil a while back and it was dark blood red and the new stuff was line pink lemonade. Car seemed to shift smoother. Maybe it will help you.

 

Well.....if your clutch isnt bad, that sure seems like a sure fire way to burn one up

I'd say that the best way to tell if your clutch is getting weak is to get the car out on a flat open stretch of road and get it running rpms over 3000 in 4th or 5th gear....and give it WOT. If the clutch doesn't slip, you are good to go.

 

could be syncros cant remember where the gears are but I think they share syncros

 

wot = ?

 

Wide open throttle...

 

If you decide to change the gear oil, I would suggest Red Line oil such as MTL 70W80 GL-4. The red line oil seems to really help the synchros.

 

Thanks.

It's one of my favorite aspects of the car's performance. When at 3000 RPM in 4th or 5th and I stomp on it the car really takes off. No problems there.

dean.

 

The key is THIRD gear.... You don't run the risk of burning the clutch..

And, you dont hold it at 3,000 - you get it to 3K... then let it out... let the revs drop... its less stress than pulling away at 3K.

 

+1 on Red Line oil

 

I still don't understand how putting a light load on your clutch tests it. The HP and TQ your motor is making at 3000rpms at part throttle is nothing compared to the power it's feeding the clutch at high rpms under full boost. Just because the clutch will grab enough to bog the motor down doesn't mean it will hold under WOT and full boost at high rpms.

In my mind, a weak clutch is one that starts to slip on you when your motor is making full power under a heavy load......not low rpms and light load. If it's slipping under a light load......it's been "Bad" for weeks/months.

 

WOT = Wide Open Throttle

 

The third gear ratio is putting stress on the clutch surface. Think about the power needed to move a car at a launch in 3rd gear.

It's the same level of stress the car is under while going to WOT while the car is rolling... Only it's an easier test..

A car with a weak clutch may go fine in 1st... No slippage when not beat upon... However it will fail this test and the car won't stall... When it should (quickly)..

 

Another clue ...

Was in bumper to bumper traffic for nearly 2 hours this morning. When cold the shifting was fine, but slowly got worse to the point of my really having difficulty getting it into first by the time I reached my destination.

Heat seems to aggravate things.

Dean.

 

Is it releasing close to the floor? Is it hard to push the pedal down, especially as it gets closer to the floor?

Just based on what you've written so far I think you need a new clutch.

Way sells a Valeo kit that includes a regualr (non-dual mass) flywheel and clutch assy, it's about half the cost of a new factory assy and works beautifully. It takes all the effort out yet grips like crazy.

Most people think if it's not slipping it's OK. And while that's true generally, it can also not release properly - which is what yours is doing. A new clutch is a lot less than a new tranny, which you'll also need if you don't fix this.

 

Thanks.

Yes, it releases close to floor, but it has since day of delivery. No change there.

Easy to push pedal down and it does not get harder as it nears floor.

I'd hate to change the clutch and not have it fix the issue ...and I'd hate for the clutch to be the issue and I'm putting wear on my tranny.

My mechanic does not have many customers with MINIs. Great mechanic, but not a MINI guy (if that matters).

I can bring it to a dealer, but assume they will sell me the most expensive repair they can.

Makes me wish I was more of a "car guy". But, I just drive 'em.

Dean.

 

Maybe I spoke too quickly.

I went to an empty lot today and as best I could tried to calculate how far from full in my clutch grabs and how far out seemed like full let off.

On flat ground I can get the car rolling in first by letting the clutch out what feels/seems like only an inch, maybe even less. Full out seems like two inches. In other words, it grabs almost instantly and is fully out very soon after.

It has always released close to the floor, but maybe this is closer than it was. Kind of hard to say because I assume the change was gradual and I didn't notice a difference.

Well, that's why I asked my initial question. Maybe my clutch is going.

Thanks everyone.

Dean.

 

When my slave cylinder was going, it actually got to the point where I could not engage any gear with the motor running. But smooth as silk with the motor off. Up to that point, it would be simple to engage gears, but as I shifted more on the way to work, gears became harder to select. They do have a history of crapping out on people, and are relatively inexpensive to replace. Especially compared to a clutch replacement.

 

Ha, I didn't know WOT either.