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How can I tell if clutch is or isn't okay ...

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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 07:17 AM
  #51  
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reelsmith.
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Originally Posted by Enzof104
reelsmith

What mechanic are you using? I know you said its a friend but sometimes its good to get another set of eyes on the issue. I live in Danbury and although I do most of my own work, I do know a very well respected guy on Federal Road near Costco. he's done a few repairs for me. ENI Motorsports - guys name is Craig and he's very honest. Not sure about his prices compared to others but does excellent work. I recommend at least getting an opinion. he does have a little experience with MINIs but also works on cars much more complicated than ours - heres their site http://www.enimotorsports.com/
I'm using a shop in Norwalk that I've been using for 25 years, Safe Line Tires. He works on all makes and models. I was just a client at the beginning ...we became friends when we found we share interests.

Thanks for the recommendation.

Dean.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 07:20 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Michael Lewis
Okay guys, lets regroup and take a step back on this one.

He said it shifts perfectly while the car is off. That alone should tell everyone that THE SHIFT LINKAGE IS WORKING PROPERLY!!! Also, how often do you hear about a shift linkage going out? How about never.

He said that the clutch is grabbing well, just as a good clutch would. So the clutch is fine.

No odd noises are heard from a throw out bearing.

The bad motor mount was replaced, and the problem still exists, so it obviously wasn't that.

Now what exactly is going on here? Sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging. Okay let's think... What causes the clutch to disengage... AHA! Pushing the clutch pedal down, which actuates the master cylinder which in turn actuates the slave cylinder which depresses the clutch fork which in turn DISENGAGES THE CLUTCH FOR A SMOOTH GEAR CHANGE WHILE THE MOTOR AND TRANNY ARE OPERATING AT DIFFERENT SPEEDS.

And how often do people have troubles with clutch slave/master cylinders? A lot more often than a shift linkage goes out. Especially the clutch slave in our MINI's. Think about the nature of a hydraulic system vs mechanical linkage. Hydraulic seals fail over time. Mechanical linkage, even cables are much more reliable, dependable and maintenance free.

Just my .02
Thanks Michael. Clutch slave/master cylinders are next on the list.

Dean.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 07:31 AM
  #53  
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reelsmith.
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Originally Posted by joylove
If the top motor mount was ignored for long enough, the other mounts would also be damaged. Just sayin'.
It seems like it was a fairly quick and catastrophic failure. We were both under the hood the week he greased the cables and there were no signs of a leak. The next week when he changed the gear oil is when we saw the dried up fluid underneath the mount and it was still leaking. The next week I had it replaced. So, I don't think it was ignored for long, unless they can be broken without showing any signs (no leaking, no knocking).

In his opinion the other mounts look good. I'm not sure how else you would tell other than visual inspection. Are all the mounts fluid filled?

Dean.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #54  
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AlexQS
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Originally Posted by Michael Lewis
Okay guys, lets regroup and take a step back on this one.

He said it shifts perfectly while the car is off. That alone should tell everyone that THE SHIFT LINKAGE IS WORKING PROPERLY!!! Also, how often do you hear about a shift linkage going out? How about never.

He said that the clutch is grabbing well, just as a good clutch would. So the clutch is fine.

No odd noises are heard from a throw out bearing.

The bad motor mount was replaced, and the problem still exists, so it obviously wasn't that.

Now what exactly is going on here? Sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging. Okay let's think... What causes the clutch to disengage... AHA! Pushing the clutch pedal down, which actuates the master cylinder which in turn actuates the slave cylinder which depresses the clutch fork which in turn DISENGAGES THE CLUTCH FOR A SMOOTH GEAR CHANGE WHILE THE MOTOR AND TRANNY ARE OPERATING AT DIFFERENT SPEEDS.

And how often do people have troubles with clutch slave/master cylinders? A lot more often than a shift linkage goes out. Especially the clutch slave in our MINI's. Think about the nature of a hydraulic system vs mechanical linkage. Hydraulic seals fail over time. Mechanical linkage, even cables are much more reliable, dependable and maintenance free.

Just my .02
I guess I missed the part about shifting fine when engine is not running. But double clutching didn't help either.

I wish I could just drive the damn thing! LOL

OP says he'll try slave and master cylinder next. I do hope that fixes it. I think I would try that if it were my car. -I would just hate to see someone throw thousands of dollars at replacing the entire clutch, pressure-plate, flywheel etc, without first inspecting the shift linkage.

AlexQS
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 10:51 AM
  #55  
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Kudd0
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I've had something kinda the same with my 03 Tibby. It had a DMFW which sucked and it was caused by 2 bolts that broke on it. I would go the route you are going with the slave and master cylinder first.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 09:44 PM
  #56  
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Rickcolina3
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If the linkage cables were the problem, when I pushed in the clutch would the car creep forward or would that maybe be the slave/master cylinder?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 10:38 PM
  #57  
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Michael Lewis
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Originally Posted by Rickcolina3
If the linkage cables were the problem, when I pushed in the clutch would the car creep forward or would that maybe be the slave/master cylinder?
That would be a problem with the clutch not disengaging all the way, also referred to as a dragging clutch. It could be low fluid in the clutch system which would call for bleeding the clutch or it could be internally leaking seals in the clutch slave. And it also could be the same in the clutch master cylinder however that's not as likely in our cars.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 06:07 AM
  #58  
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The guy at the mini dealership told me I needed a brand new clutch, motor mounts and I needed a brake fluid bleed. I knew he just wanted my money. I'll look at replacing the slave cylinder and bleeding the fluid. Thanks
 
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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 10:45 AM
  #59  
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reelsmith.
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Update ...

Yesterday on the way home the car was fine ...as in fine.

This morning I had several stops to make on the way to the office. Lots of stop and go, reverse, etc. All was very good. Not fine, but darn close.

Whatever problem I have has seemingly become intermittent.

My mechanic gets back next week and will hopefully have time to look at my master and slave cylinders.

Dean.
 

Last edited by reelsmith.; Jul 12, 2013 at 10:53 AM.
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 11:18 AM
  #60  
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AlexQS
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Dean, I've been wondering if this was sorted out. With it being intermittent now, and effected by heat, etc.... -Anyway I was just hoping you found a solution. It's certainly plausible that any air or moisture in the hydraulic clutch line would react to heat and whatnot; not allowing the clutch to disengage completely at sometimes.

Have you guys done that next step? I think I remember you were going to investigate the slave & master & fluid next.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 03:50 PM
  #61  
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reelsmith.
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From: Ridgefield, CT
Originally Posted by AlexQS
Dean, I've been wondering if this was sorted out. With it being intermittent now, and effected by heat, etc.... -Anyway I was just hoping you found a solution. It's certainly plausible that any air or moisture in the hydraulic clutch line would react to heat and whatnot; not allowing the clutch to disengage completely at sometimes.

Have you guys done that next step? I think I remember you were going to investigate the slave & master & fluid next.
Alex,

Thanks for checking on me !

Bad news ...not car related. I have had a fairly serious incident with my back that has confined me to the house and my daughter has been driving me to physical therapy because I have been unable to drive for two weeks. Yesterday I was able to drive myself for the first time, but I still am not well enough to attempt getting into the MINI, so I drive my son's Accord. My back "buckles" easily and getting into the MINI would surely trigger it.

I have another week of therapy before I might be able to drive my car again. Once I can and am back to work I will have the slave & master & fluid checked out.

This is the longest my MINI has ever sat idle ...and I really miss driving it.

My back gave out with no warning. I got out of bed one morning and fell to my knees. This happened once before, about a year ago. I got up in the middle of the night to turn on the AC, had an incredible twinge in my back, passed out and fell down. Luckily I didn't hit anything on the way down. My mending was quicker last time.

My insurance company will not pay for an MRI unless the meds (steroids and muscle relaxants) and therapy don't improve the situation. My doctors (and I) find this positively infuriating. My doctors have gone above and beyond for my cause, but have gotten no where. It's maddening. I'll spare you the details. Needless to say, I feel as if all the money I spend on health insurance is entirely wasted. I wish Allstate offered health insurance. I will cough up the $4K for an MRI myself if my doctors feel it is imperative. X-rays look good, but there could be something degenerative going on.

Thanks again for keeping tabs on me. I promise to check in with the results of all my problems ...and hopefully I won't be wearing a back brace and a heating pad next time !

Dean.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 04:02 PM
  #62  
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joylove
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Originally Posted by reelsmith.
My back gave out with no warning. I got out of bed one morning and fell to my knees. This happened once before, about a year ago. I got up in the middle of the night to turn on the AC, had an incredible twinge in my back, passed out and fell down. Luckily I didn't hit anything on the way down. My mending was quicker last time. .
Damn that sucks, I had exactly the same thing happen to me once. The solution is to spend heavily on a memory foam mattress (Medium for a side sleeper, hard for a back sleeper) and a memory foam pillow, the one that is figure 8 shaped in cross section and goes right up into your neck.

Don't get the cheap ones, it's a false economy, they go baggy after 6 months. Tempur or iSerta.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 04:14 PM
  #63  
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AlexQS
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From: Near Portland, OR, USA
I feel for ya man. I've pinched a nerve in my neck a couple times (cant feel/use my arm when it happens) and have back problems too.

Saw a chiropractor several times. It helped initially, but I stopped going when I stopped realizing benefits.

Knock on wood... I've been feeling pretty good and keeping more active in the last year. -I think those two things are related. If I sit at my desk and work too long, the idle activity brings me pain.... So I wash the car a lot.

+1 on the good bed.

Wishing you a swift recovery.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 04:48 PM
  #64  
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danjreed
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From: Philly PA
Ouch back pain is the worst... I feel for ya.. Good luck with the recovery..
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 07:24 PM
  #65  
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Raven79
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From: Near Phx Az
Originally Posted by tremperj
When my slave cylinder was going, it actually got to the point where I could not engage any gear with the motor running. But smooth as silk with the motor off. Up to that point, it would be simple to engage gears, but as I shifted more on the way to work, gears became harder to select. They do have a history of crapping out on people, and are relatively inexpensive to replace. Especially compared to a clutch replacement.
yeah I had a nissan hardbody pickup do this same thing.. it would start off fine but then as the motor got warm it would lose pressure I changed the clutch slave cylinder and I had no problems after that.. I'd look there too or the cables.. as somebody else has already said
 
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 07:02 AM
  #66  
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Exhaustdd
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Originally Posted by Michael Lewis
Okay guys, lets regroup and take a step back on this one.

He said it shifts perfectly while the car is off. That alone should tell everyone that THE SHIFT LINKAGE IS WORKING PROPERLY!!! Also, how often do you hear about a shift linkage going out? How about never.

He said that the clutch is grabbing well, just as a good clutch would. So the clutch is fine.

No odd noises are heard from a throw out bearing.

The bad motor mount was replaced, and the problem still exists, so it obviously wasn't that.

Now what exactly is going on here? Sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging. Okay let's think... What causes the clutch to disengage... AHA! Pushing the clutch pedal down, which actuates the master cylinder which in turn actuates the slave cylinder which depresses the clutch fork which in turn DISENGAGES THE CLUTCH FOR A SMOOTH GEAR CHANGE WHILE THE MOTOR AND TRANNY ARE OPERATING AT DIFFERENT SPEEDS.

And how often do people have troubles with clutch slave/master cylinders? A lot more often than a shift linkage goes out. Especially the clutch slave in our MINI's. Think about the nature of a hydraulic system vs mechanical linkage. Hydraulic seals fail over time. Mechanical linkage, even cables are much more reliable, dependable and maintenance free.

Just my .02
Excellent break down and logic. A lot of the suggestions pertaining to motor mounts, shift linkage, etc., would not be intermittent, the car would be symptomatic on every drive. Hydraulic issues make more sense with an intermittent problem, as they can be impacted by temperature/weather.

Dean, sorry to hear about your health issues. I work in the medical field and I'm constantly seeing insurance companies trying to weasel out of paying for things that are 1. approved/recognized procedures, 2. ordered by their doctor, 3. medically necessary. It's frustrating but I encourage you to stay on them (ins comp.), appeal their decision if its denied. Good luck with everything, I hope you and you're MINI get well soon!
 
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #67  
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reelsmith.
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Hey folks.

Sorry to be so long with an update, but my back has been an issue for longer than expected... and then I went on vacation and hobbled all over San Diego (what a great place!).

In the meantime, my car has gotten worse.

Today my mechanic checked both the master and slave cylinders and neither shows any sign of leakage ...which is very disappointing as there seems to be no alternative left but to replace the clutch. The transmission glides through the gears with the engine off, but once started its as if there were gates locking you out of gears. There is still no grinding of gears, but shifting has become increasingly difficult. Sometimes it just won't go into a gear and I have to use the next one instead. He is bleeding the system now in hopes there may have been air in the line and then I will drive it for a few days to see where things stand, but it is not looking good.

If I have to replace the clutch, I'm thinking I should get something better than the stock unit, if such a thing exists. Any recommendations?

Exhaustdd, the NIA (National Imaging Association) denied my appeal. They will only approve a spinal MRI if the patient is displaying neurological symptoms such as lack of balance, blurred vision, etc. In other words, unless you are a basket case, no MRI. My doctors and I are furious. After lots of physical therapy and doing exercises for my back three times daily, I am about 75%. I can do most things, but am always uncomfortable. Sleeping has become very problematic.

Like my MINI ...I'm broken.

Dean.

Edit: Drove it home, it's the same as it was. I think the next step should be to have MINI look at it. Thoughts?
 

Last edited by reelsmith.; Aug 27, 2013 at 04:05 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 10:56 AM
  #68  
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reelsmith.
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From: Ridgefield, CT
I called my local MINI dealer today and they told me I needed a clutch... on the phone... without seeing the car. They clearly have an agenda which differs from mine. Although, maybe they've seen the problem enough to know that with all I've done, the clutch is next.

The car does have 75K on it, so it is not unreasonable to think it may need a clutch. But, if it does not solve the problem I'll be a very unhappy camper.

Any other ideas?

We've lubed all the cables (twice), changed the gear fluid, inspected the linkage, checked the master and slave cylinders and bled the system.

Having driven the car multiple times, my mechanic thinks it is the clutch and hopes it is not the tranny. He had an '05 MCS in for service recently and thought my clutch felt significantly different (less pedal and mushier). I cannot detect any slippage on the clutch, but I agree there does seem to be less pedal as time goes on.

With everything else we've tried, it seems I have no alternative but to replace the clutch. Thoughts?

If I go that route (I need to do something soon) should I buy an OEM clutch, the Valeo, or ?

Thanks to all for your help. It has been much appreciated.

Dean.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 01:38 PM
  #69  
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AlexQS
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Hey Dean, good to hear from you. Wish your recovery was quicker, but glad to hear of improvements.

I'm sure this was covered before, but just to make sure; be sure that your mechanic knows the clutch slave cylinder must be compressed to properly bleed it. See photo for example -I understand that many people make their own tool too.

As far as clutches go, I don't have first hand experience, but have read and am going to try the Valeo Single Mass clutch some day. My clutch holds pretty well now, but the chew baca chatter of the dual mass flywheel is an embarrassment to me.

If you read up on it, you're sure to find a couple guys that have had problems with them, and lots that have had success. I found the same when reading about people's experiences with OEM or Luk dual mass set up.

You might find some current posters on the forum that have some time/miles on their Valeo by now.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 01:40 PM
  #70  
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reelsmith.
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Last post, as I don't want to wear out my welcome, unless I can't because I already have.

Had been stuck home all day and just took the car on some errands. Five stops, 30 minutes. All in-town. Lots of shifting, including reverse. No shifting issues. None. Went to a hill, stopped in middle, put car in second gear, let out clutch and went over hill. No slippage.

I am so confused.

Dean.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #71  
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JoeGravelle
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I installed the Valeo single mass flywheel kit and I like it.

However, even after changing the flywheel and clutch out its not exactly the easiest car to shift into 5th or 6th. I am thinking that the cables need to be lubricated and the shift lever as well.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 05:23 PM
  #72  
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tberardi
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Originally Posted by reelsmith.
I've been having trouble shifting lately and the problem is somewhat inconsistent. It was suggested here that I have the cables lubed, so I had that done. It seemed to improve things, but it did not last and now I am back where I started with my mechanic suggesting it might be the clutch beginning to go.

My issue is that getting it into gear (especially R/1/3/) can take a bit of force. Double clutching does not seem to help. There is no grinding of gears and the clutch feels normal. I can stop on a hill and get going again just fine.

How do I test my clutch to see if it is okay?

What else should I check to resolve the shifting issue?

Thanks.

Dean.

Okay, having read all the above posts and after finishing a clutch replacement this weekend on my R50 in an effort to resolve issues just like yours, I would try to resolve it as follows.
Check to see that the master and slave clutch are not leaking.
If both are good, then bleed the hydraulic system.
if that doesn't resolve it, then its your clutch fork, release bearing or clutch disc which will all require the transmission to be removed to repair it. Everything becomes self evident once you remove the transmission. Anyway, it will take you 2 to 3 days to DIY if you are good at wrenching. Unfortunately, I pulled my right arm muscle when trying to put the transmission back him. Its a job I dread but I saved money. Ask as many questions as you like to help you resolve this. good luck
 
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 05:39 AM
  #73  
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Meep Meep
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Overnight Bleeding **IT WORKED**

Yes our car had the same issues everyone is describing. We had the local shop replace the Slave Cylinder yesterday but it didn't seem to fix the issue (AT FIRST).

So we read a thread last night and tried this trick: I wedged a 2X4 between the clutch pedal and the driver seat so the pedal was all the way to the floor. Left it there overnight. Gave it a couple of pumps this morning and it firmed up really nice. Drives and shifts absolutely perfect!!!! WOO HOOO!!!

Now I get to call the shop and tell them we don't need to bring it back in after all
 
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 07:29 AM
  #74  
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6000pounds
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From: Lake Worth, Florida
synchros

edit: re-read some of your posts. if you aren't having a problem getting it into any of the gears it's probably your clutch. if you're having problems getting the car to go into gears it's your synchros.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 03:29 PM
  #75  
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reelsmith.
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Update:

Sorry it's been so long since I've posted an update. I simply didn't do anything until the problem became very consistent and really got on my nerves.

I ordered a Valeo SMF clutch kit from Way Motor Works (super fast service) and had it installed while I was away last week. My mechanic says my old clutch was "down to the rivets"... which I was told meant it was shot.

I picked the car up today, the shifting issues are gone and everything is back to normal... albeit with a very different amount of pedal.

My pedal used to let out very near the bottom (by the floor) and now lets out closer to the top. I feel like a beginner when stopped on a hill.

It seems the car is fixed.

Thanks to all who lent their opinions. I appreciate it.

Dean.
 
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