2003 mini cooper base won't crank
 

I can put the key in the ignition, radio comes on, gauges work, ect. For some reason though the car just won't turn over. I can still use the unlock, and lock buttons on the key, and the door will unlock with the key, but I don't hear the starter or anything when I turn the key to start.

Anyway, I want to bypass the ignition switch, cause the key does have a slight chip in it, and I think the chip might be in the ignition switch causing the no start.

What wires do I cross to bypass the switch, and start the car? I don't want to waste a few hundred until I am sure what I need to replace.

Ok, how about if I bought a push button, how would I wire it? Key in start position, hit start button, and car starts. How do I wire one of those? If you didn't know the green wire is power for the starter. Power is detected on the green wire when the key is in the start position, every other position has no power.

I am getting somewhere, but would be nice if somebody had more insight.

Step one is always diagnostics. Find the problem.
Hint: it has nothing to do with the chip in the key.

Got power to the starter?

Starter has 12v constant. When I said the key has a chip in it, I meant the end of the key is chipped. Not sure if that small piece is in the ignition switch or if it chipped being in my pocket, but a little piece is missing.

When the key is in the ignition, and drivers door is open I don't hear a beeping noise anymore. I checked all the fuses which are all good. Any other suggestions? I am still thinking ignition switch, and want to bypass it unless somebody knows what else to troubleshoot.

I bypassed the ignition system, but still has same results. I had my grandpa come over to help diagnose it since he used to be a mechanic. He got the starter to spin by using a jumper, but it didn't engage. I tried turning it over while he was doing that, and still didn't turn the car over. I am starting to think its the starter, but still not sure.

Bypassing the starter switch on a car with an imoblizer is useless..

The cars computer must read the chip in the key to allow power to the starter....even a perfectly cut key will turn the switch, but the starter will only be energized IF THE IMOBLIZER sees the chip in the key.....

You don't understand, the electronics are in the key, the electronics work. Its the tip of the key that enters the ignition switch that has a small chip missing. See what I mean here: http://youtu.be/Uv1Dyc9z1fo

I diagnosed the issue, starter is getting the 12v constant, but the other wire doesn't get power at all. When I get that wire power the starter turns the engine, but I can't get it to turn over.

Does the key turn?
If the key turns...and the imoblizer is present and is read...you are in good shape.
The key turns...
So it is GOOD.
if the key was mangled to not working, IT WOULD NOT TURN THE LOCK.
It turns, do the chips on the tip is not the issue...
It appears the electronics that is in the key is iffy if the starter is ok...or the cars ecu. Just have to troubleshoot.
It is the zigzags on the key, not the tip that the lock uses.....

As i said before, if the antithesft imoblizer chip in the head of the key is not read, the lights will come on, everything will seem ok, but no crank.....

Ok. yea all the lights come on, and everything is fine other then the starter not cranking. Could the starter be bad? I am thinking about removing the starter, and having it checked at advance cause I think they do it for free.

Sounds like the starter is ok...
You powered it directly and it whired right?!

Yea, but I read it could still be the issue. Where should I begin testing?

Try a second or spare key....failed part could be in the key (mosture/age) or the car side of tge imoblizer (the part that reads the passive chip in the key...has a few inch range).
They key turns, and you did bypass the key switch by hotwiring it...(tried this eith the key in the ignation so it could be read by the imoblizer right...the purpose is to prevent hotwiring a car).

I don't have a spare key, and I did have the key in the on position when I hit the button to start it, and got the same issues, no crank.

:eek2: But you said the starter whired when you powered it directly right?
Why suspect the starter then? You DID test it.
IF the issue was that starter would spin but not engage you replicated it...but you just proved the starter works....multiple things must happen for a car to start...both with the computer, etc...
your ORIGINAL issue is NO CRANK.
So far you have chopped up the wiring around the keys....HOPEFULLY it is all back OK...

Sounds like you might be in over your head...might save some $$ and time getting it looked at...and not created other multiple issues...that might hide the original....

If the car does not "ding" when you put the key in the ignition when the door is open the immobilizer circuit is not recognizing the key, either because the electronics in the car have failed in some way or the chip in the key has failed. I don't believe that there is any way to wire around this- that's what makes our cars virtually theft proof, as far as I have been able to determine.

I just pulled out the immobilizer chip the other day when responding to a post over at MINI2 to let the OP there know what would happen (similar problem). The key and car will do just what yours is doing- key turns and lights come on but no cranking.

Your best gamble might be to get a second, non-remote key from the dealer (they are about $65 and you have to show proof of ownership) and see if that key starts your car. The non remote key looks like the remote key but does not have buttons to lock and unlock the car. A dealer might also be able to read your key and see if the immobilizer chip has gone dead, which would be easier than towing the car in. If the key is still alive the problem is most likely with the immobilizer ECU in the car and is best left up to the dealer or a MINI specialist to repair. This is probably something your corner garage wouldn't be able to handle.

Good luck and keep us posted (!)

Val

I pulled the chip out, put it back in, and the car started. Then as I was putting all the wires in the car a sheriff drove by slowly probably wondering what I was doing with wires, and a button, but oh well, she's running again.

I don't think there's anything in the chip that taking it out and putting it back in again would affect. Perhaps you changed slightly the position of the chip in the key and that allowed the ring antenna (around the lock) to be able to "see" the chip properly.

If it does it again try taking the key out of the ignition and waving it around next to the lock to see if you get the "ding". As I have discovered, there is a pretty specific area where the key will produce the ding.

Val

Ok, thanks for the help, and tips.

I was reading this thread as I have the same Problem...
Need help please:
Here is my problem and what I tried:
Key in turn to on position, Fuel pump runs, all ignition lights come on clutch in but will not crank over. Everything works as if I did not push in the clutch.
I first suspect clutch start switch, as in the past I had to raise and low the clutch and make sure it was all the way down to start. I tried to bypass it by removing the wire connection which has 4 wires on it. 2 blue, violet/white, brown/black. I jumped the violet and brown wire as I read but still did not work.
I also suspected the key, battery seams good, door locks work. Chip is inside the key, I wave the key near the ignition but hear nothing. Should this cause a beep of some sort?
Is there any fuses associated with this? I do not have a spare key...
Very lost, any help would be appreciated, thanks much... Bill