Hey all.
I recently slid on inches of snow right to a curb. The speed was low so the car is still drivable (with a crooked steering wheel)

I do have list of suspected parts that are causing the whacked up steering wheel so I decided to tackle the #1 on the list today, tie rod.

Well well, apparently, my outer tie rod got froze on to the inner tie rod, no matter how much hammer banging, twisting, PBs, this thing is stuck for good. Therefore, no alignment can be made or replace the tie rod ends.

So I decided to just replace the entire assembly since it should be fairly worn out by now (115k miles). But woah. I just cannot freaking get a right size wrench for the inner tie rod in the first place, and there is no space at all to stick any kind of tool to crack the inner tie rod out.

I can't use the tie-rod tool because the outer tie rod cannot be removed.
I can't cut - weld - pull method because I do not have a welder

So I just gave up on removing it for now as the weather is bitchingly cold at this moment.

Anyone have any tips or how-to's for removing the tie rod assembly WITHOUT dropping sub frame?

Thank you in advance!

 

ttp://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/187587-tie-rod-adjustable-or-replace-only.html

 

I am in need of some assistance on this as well. Alignment shop said that the passenger tie rod is seized and they can't bring the toe in spec. I plan on replacing myself, but am totally new to tie rods. From the looks of this thread, it's not an easy job if they're seized. Can someone give a breakdown of what will be involved?

Thanks.

 

Here is a great illustrated "How To"

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

 

Thanks for the link. I ordered both tie rod assemblies from them and then noticed they had this great write up. Parts already arrived on a Saturday. That Pelican place is a good deal! Looks like it actually shouldn't be too difficult. Then off to the alignment shop.

 

Did both tie rod assemblies today and it was quite easy. I'll throw some info out in case anyone comes upon this thread for advice like me...

The hardest part was cutting the original tie rods in half. But that was only cause there's no going back after that lol. And I do recommend cutting the assemblies in half if they are not to be reused. Cut it close to the boot end so the outer rod will have all the threads. That way you can easily count the threads for the replacements. A Sawzall or equivalent with a basic metal blade will take about 30 sec. on the soft rod. Also, the Powerbuilt Inner Tie Rod removal Kit #85 has the 33.6mm adapter for the R53 so you don't have to come from between the subframe and control arm. This was rented from local auto parts store. Also makes it easy to use a torque wrench to get the inner rod-to-rack 59 ft/lbs. Use thick zip ties on the boots instead of hose clamps. Cheaper and works just as well. Lastly, a 15mm crow's foot will come in handy to get the 38 ft/lbs on the ball joint nut. Only way to get a torque wrench on there since a 6mm hex is needed to center hold.

 

I've been able to tighten the ball joints to the point that their "one-grunt" tight while counter holding with the hex and by that point the taper is engaged enough that you can use a regular socket for torquing to spec.

I should say that I've got a set of pass-through gearwrench sockets and also some ratcheting wrenches that make it possible to use the hex effectively.

No doubt that crows-foots are indispensable in a lot of places, but it's kind of a pain to re-set its position when using a torque wrench so as to maintain the lever arm at the right length.

 

I did this job yesterday. Quite easy; however, I don't recommend using the 34 mm wrench as written in the PP write-up. Rather, just cut off the tie rods as alluded to above and then use this removal tool to remove the inner 34 mm attachment:
https://www.harborfreight.com/inner-...set-69619.html
You slide the part over the cut-off tie rod. With an angle grinder, I cut through the tie rod in about 30 seconds.