Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Yay my window works again! But my door lock broke.

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Old Nov 2, 2010 | 10:16 AM
  #1  
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Neufusion
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Yay my window works again! But my door lock broke.

I bought my 04 MCS 2-3 years ago with 65k miles.
Almost a year later, the driver side window stopped working. I got an estimate of a few hundred dollars and decided to live with opening my door at the drive-thru. haha
6 months later the thing magically started working again.
6 months later, it stopped again.
3 months later, a mechanic friend cracked open the door and got it working again.
3 months later, it stopped again.
Today I opened the door and heard the window move, so I got a big smile on my face and hit the switch. Sure enough, it was working perfectly.

What is up with this window? Why does it go from working perfect to not working at all? It sounds like a loose connection, but it's been taken apart once to fix it and when it is dead it still makes a clicking noise in the motor, so it's getting power.

I'm stoked for now. I'd be even more stoked if my driver-side lock would magically start unlocking when I use the remote.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2010 | 07:13 PM
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A common trick is to slam the door while holding the window motor button, that will unjam the window

but its very common for the window motors to go bad easily.. usually the driver side (obviously.. we open the driver side window more than the passenger side)
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 05:57 AM
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Another method is to hit the door panel just above the speaker (beat it like it owes you money). This is a common problem with a lot of powered windows on many makes of cars.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 06:28 AM
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I had the same problem with my '05 in both doors and in both instances it was traced to a bad crimp joint on a connector. It was hidden by the insulation on the connector. Slamming and banging are temporary fixes that simply jog the broken wire/connector back into contact. A continuity check of the wiring at the motor is in order.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 06:54 AM
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Yes if you've had it this intermittent it's going to quit again. You really just need to replace the motor. Do that and your problems will go away. I keep new ones in stock if you need.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 08:36 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by MiniMacster
Another method is to hit the door panel just above the speaker (beat it like it owes you money). This is a common problem with a lot of powered windows on many makes of cars.
My driver side window would not go down a few months ago. Tried the "punch three times real hard above the speaker" technique and it worked like a charm
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 03:26 PM
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Neufusion
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Originally Posted by SSSSSSSS
I had the same problem with my '05 in both doors and in both instances it was traced to a bad crimp joint on a connector. It was hidden by the insulation on the connector. Slamming and banging are temporary fixes that simply jog the broken wire/connector back into contact. A continuity check of the wiring at the motor is in order.
I have a basic understand of electronics and own mulitmeter but barely know how to use it, or what I am looking for. How would I do a continuity check on the window motor wiring?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 09:41 AM
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The banging method hasn't worked for me whenever it has failed. I just read a more detailed posts saying to bang "the 3:00 position directly over the screw hole at the front of the arm rest" "like it owes you money" haha

The odd coincidence is that the window decides to work again on the coldest SoCal mornings. It hasn't been working for a few weeks and this morning at 34 degrees it magically started working again. Now it will work for weeks, even through hot days until it decides to quit and wait for the next cold morning. haha
 
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