Month and half and all good. Problem solved.

 

2009 Clubman S. I'm getting this 2885 as well. Mostly when accelerating uphill. So far, I have replaced the turbo and the blow off valve.

I first noticed the lack of power right after the thermostat housing was replaced. It cracked open and leaked coolant all over. Is there something I should be checking around the thermostat housing?

 

are you running a tune? what gear are you in when you're accelerating uphill?

 

How are you reading the stored codes? If the 2885 is present with any other engine codes you need to diagnose and fix the other codes first until only the 2885 fault remains. If the car is turbo you will get a 2885 fault code when the car is in limp mode, and that can result from a number of other codes that don't involve turbo replacement.

If you are using a quality reader that is only pulling the 2885 fault then you'll need to diagnose why the car is undershooting its boost threshold, whether it's due to the wastegate not being properly adjusted, faulty recirc valve, poor vacuum source to the wastegate actuator, or even that the turbo you had put on is faulty.

 

Weirdest thing happened. Well, some bad luck happened that may have caused a good thing.

I slipped on some ice and hit a snow bank. Coolant leaked out all over until I had none left. Got towed to the mechanic. Turbocharger auxiliary water pump was busted and leaking all over. After fixing that, my car appears to have full power again.

So, either the snow bank knocked something into place, or something related to the auxiliary water pump was not right. So, for the cost of a tow, plus $200, I may have fixed my issue. Which is great since I've already put over a grand into fixing this problem.

I did only drive it around town and home, so I'll wait for a real drive before I call it 'fixed' fixed, but it feels good so far.

 

fingers crossed.

 

Maybe they noticed a loose connection on a pipe while they were working on the car and fixed it?

 

Ok..my turn..P2885..code...damn this thing to hell....lol
Vac lines
pressure convert...
tweaked wastegate.........
pita...no power...damn prius...passes me.....
I have read all threads and everyone has same code...but all different remedies...
crazy...mine is still on...

 

Until you find a fix, try living with it by downshifting when passing / accelerating / loading the engine. Won't always work, but after awhile you learn when the ECU needs more gearing.

 

Just figured I'd share my recent experience with P2885:

I recently took my 2008 MCS out of storage after about a year while I was out of town. On the test drive it threw P2885 after a 3rd gear pull to near redline.

First​​First checked the BOV then the wastegate, but both seemed fine. I later noticed an oil leak from the vacuum canister and from the vacuum line spigot at the bottom of the vacuum pump. The line coming from the bottom of the vacuum pump was overly pliable.

I decided to check the vacuum lines and vacuum canister, etc by removing the intake manifold. I emptied the vacuum canister of the oil that had made it's way into it. I also noticed that a couple of the vacuum lines were detached but I'm not sure if that was from my disassembly or what. Anyways, I "rebuilt" the vacuum lines with new tubing from the parts place and reassembled. No more code!

Long story short, if you are dealing with P2885 and have oil leaks associated with the vacuum system, definitely check that out.

 

JM Turbo Coopers has an article on this subject. Ran into this issue and ordered the turbine housing from them. I get the code sometimes probably due to not adjusting the wastegate properly. Will be adjusting at earliest opportunity and updating. Good luck.

 

Ok, so I read the entire thread.

I have a 2007 Mini Cooper S, 6-speed with 203k. Original owner. Bone stock. I started getting this error in the last few weeks with all the mentioned symptoms where it does not show up as formal CEL, but intermittent "half-CEL" in the instrument cluster, but not on main dial. It happens in higher gears when under load at higher rpms. Definitely reduced power and feeling like boost is not building up.

To summarize people have mentioned the following as the possible culprit:

1. Wastegate actutator
2. Vacuum pump
3. Vacuum lines
4. Carbon build up (not getting misfires, so doubt this is it as i already had walnut shelling done at 100k and it is usually accompanied with misfires)
5. Cats fouled up
6. Gasket between cats and downpipe blocking the wastegate (something like that from what I gathered from the poster. Doesn't make any sense, but paraphgrasing)
7. Turbocharger shaft play
8. Acorns build up in the air intake pipe
9. Diverter valve (changed it to new and it did nothing)


In summary we have no clue what causes it as it could be multitude of issues.

 

Longtrout707 - Nice summary - thanks for posting!

 

Any updates? Success?

 

Thanks!

I was getting MAF code and 2885. Replaced the MAF, codes went away, still getting 2885 at higher RPMS. Ordered vacuum lines next. If this doesn't fix it, I am done.

Things changed so far with no success:

1. Diverter valve. Stock diaphragm was fine at 203k. Still replaced to new electronic one.
2. MAF
3. Checked piping around turbo. No leaks.
4. Had detached lower vacuum line. Re-attached and no success.


Things I know I have:

1. Leaky, but functional vacuum pump. Ordered the O-ring for it. Would oil leaking vacuum pump caused this code or only vacuum lines themselves?
2. Turbo oil feed line leak
3. Crankshaft seal leak

What's left to try:

1. Vacuum lines
2. IC piping
3. Wastegate ??
4. HPFP?? ...Wouldn't I get fuel related codes besides 2885 if this was the case? AT 203k I am well outside the extended recall for these.

HALP!

 

So basically they have no clue what's causing. I love that summary....COULD BE ANYTHING!!

http://jmtcperformance.com/publicati...ibility-error/

"Vacuum Waste Gate Failure
Use a vacuum pump connected to the waste gate actuator vacuum canister to test for leaks, it should fully close the waste gate when vacuum is turn on and fully open it at atmosphere. If you don’t have a vacuum pump it can also be tested by blocking the vacuum port and closing the valve to see if pressure builds or closing the waste gate and blocking the vacuum port then releasing the waste gate to see if the vacuum canister sucks in air. If it fails in either direction it will need to be replaced. Click here to see Vacuum Waste Gate.
.

.
Vacuum Line Failure
Checking all vacuum lines for damage, wear, holes, soft collapsible tubing due to oil damage or restricted. (check vacuum pump also)
.
Boost or Turbo Failure
If the turbocharger is not making boost and is noisy and/or the car blows bluish smoke out the exhaust when you accelerate it is may need to be replaced. The turbocharger should be replaced or when the turbine hits the housing it will shed aluminum flakes into the intake system and metal flakes into the engine oil. This type of failure is due to the catalytic converter being so close to the turbocharger that it burns the oil inside the turbocharger after the engine is turned off.
.
And this is why. As the shaft spins it wobbles which compress the C-clip into the turbine shaft. The burnt coked oil prevents the C-clip (what you would call the oil seal) from expanding once it is compressed around the shaft. When the C-clip is compressed around the turbine shaft the exhaust gases can enter the turbo and oil can enter the exhaust or catfold. When oil enters the catalytic (catfold) converter it blocks the air flow due to all the particles in the oil and creates back pressure. This back pressure pushes the turbine shaft into the thrust bearing causing excessive wear, pushes more oil into the exhaust, and/or pushes oil into the intake piping. Eventually the compressor touches the compressor housing which stop the turbine from spinning or worse completely breaks the turbine shaft. We typically see turbos fail from 30k to 60k miles due to the oil coking around the turbine shaft.
.
The result of this is either catastrophic turbo failure, failure of the turbo to create boost pressure, varying boost pressure, turbo works when hot but not when cold, works up to 8psi then car goes into error, works at low boost but engine sputters and stalls, or one combustion chamber failure due to oil coating the spark plug, or worst of all the oil can prevent the piston from fully closing causing the piston to crack. We have even seen pre-ignition due to the extra oil lowering the octane rating and/or the gases prematurely igniting due to the extra pressure in the chamber (igniting kind of like a diesel). This has caused pistons to crack or the pre-ignition to burn a hole in the piston and has also lead to the myth that there is an issue with the pistons on the N14 engine.
.
To see if the turbo is not making boost pressure because of turbine contact with the turbo housing pull on the nut on the compressor side of the turbine shaft. If the thrust bearing is warn enough to allow the turbine to touch the housing it will move in and out ~1mm. The compressor is probably rubbing up against the turbine housing preventing it from spinning. If it is not rubbing and there is play in the turbine shaft it still means that you have thrust bearing wear due to back pressure in your exhaust.
.
Also if you can pull the turbine shaft assembly up and down more than ~1mm the compressor and/or exhaust turbine can rub against the compressor and/or exhaust turbine housing preventing boost pressure to build. If the oil was not changed often enough (meaning it was changed as recommend by Mini Cooper ever 10 or 15k miles there could be excessive wear in the sleeve bearing. The oil on a Mini Cooper 4cly should be replaced before 5k miles and with only ACEA spec. A3/B3 oils). Both of these issues can cause the turbo to fail (meaning boost pressure failure due to the turbine is touching the compressor or exhaust housing) prevent in as soon as 40k. Click here to see our full line of turbochargers.
.
Inter-cooler/after turbocharger Leak
Inter-cooler and post turbocharger leaks can cause your turbocharger to fail due to it over spinning to reach boost pressure. The leak will not allow the turbochargers to reach boost pressure and it can cause the compressor to grenade throwing aluminum chunks into your engine. Always fix any intake leaks immediately. Click here to see our high flow intercooler.
.
Clogged air filter
A clogged air filter can cause your turbocharger to fail due to it over spinning to reach boost pressure. The clogged air filter will not allow the turbochargers to reach boost pressure and it can cause the compressor to grenade throwing aluminum chunks into your engine. Always replace your air cleaner as recommended by the OEM manufacture.
.
Rear Crank Case Ventilation System, Pre-ignition (known as piston failure or bad pistons).
Due to a bad design of the rear crank case ventilation system on the Mini Cooper N14 07 to 10 (or to 12 for the JCW) the engine is susceptible to pre-ignition (knock). This engine has a rear crank case ventilation system that vents right into the intake through the “noise maker”, on direct injection engines this is absolutely the worst place ever to vent hot oil vapors. The reason is because the hot oil gases build up on the hot intake valves and block the air flow.
.
In as little as 15k miles the valves can coke up with oil and block the airflow into the engine. This leads to an uneven distribution of air flow into each combustion chamber and this is one of the worst things that can happen to a turbocharged engine. Not only do you lose power because you now are getting more air in one combustion chamber than the other but even worse the air to fuel mixture is not correct and that leads to pre-ignition.
.
This has lead to the myth that the pistons are weaker turbocharged N14 engine than the N18. Yes there were some changes to the pistons but this had to do more with the new dual vanos system than the quality of the cast pistons. The actual problem is the improperly mixed fuel due to the air being blocked by dirty valves. This improper mixture causes the pre-ignition which burns a hole in the piston. To fix this the valves will need to be walnut blasted than the rear ventilation needs to be block off with a cap. click here to see our secondary crank case vacuum block off cap.
.
HPFP Failure (high pressure fuel pump)
Mini USA has an extended warranty on the HPFP for the 2007, to 2009 Minis with the N14 engine with less than 120k.
,
Turbo leaks
Check all connections to the turbo for leaks on the turbo inlet, outlet and tubes to inter-cooler. Don't forget check the connection at the tube on the cold side coming off the hard tubing from the inter-cooler located just past the MAP sensor.
.
Turbo Upgrades
If you don't have boost until you reach 3000rpm you will get this issue, you can flash you ECO or drive a little differently.
.
Vacuum Reservoir
Check the vacuum reservoir under the manifold is not full of oil water, dirt, or has leak or restriction.
.
Other things that might cause this issue:
Pressure/Temperature Sensor failure
Map Sensors leak or failure
Vac Pump not working
Cold Side pressure sensor failure

 

Just had to deal with this today again. First I checked my wastegate it was perfect. Then I checked my bypass valve it was perfect. Then I checked my boost hoses and found a bad connection near the turbo inlet. Fixing this problem eliminated the code. StartSimple. Check the last thing you did in my case it was remove the intake hose to install a new thermostat housing.

 

I had the same issue once, spent one month looking for it...it was just one of the hose on the vaccum tank ( don't if it's really the name of the part) under the intake manifold that was disconnected

 

I just checked all the vacuum hoses and found some that were spongy due to previous oil leaks. Got about 3 ft of hose and replaced all the hoses in the engine. A bit of a pain due to having to remove the intake manifold to get to these. Well worth it. Now the car runs much better and no 2885 code anymore.

 

Just did this with this guys instructions and his kit. Step by step is spot on. Hot side oil seal was blown and probably triggered the 2885 Boost Deviation code. Among other things such as replacing all the vacuum lines. Did not take the whole turbo out. Just the cartridge. Super easy. Just time consuming. Worth the 50dlls investment if you have a 2885 code. Also, do the vacuum lines.

 

I also started getting he P2885 today.
Haven't changed the mods on the car in years. But got the code today. Awaiting the final answer on what the real solution is for this code.

 

There is NO 1 Specific Issue that causes this code.

This is a code that is thrown by the computers when it is confused and does knot know what the real issue is.

If you read this and a number of other threads on this P2885 Code you will find it can be caused by:

1. Dirty Air Filter
2. Disconnected Vacuum Hose
3. Hot Side Oil Seals (turbo)
4. Waste Gate Failure (broken flap or arm)
5. Inter-cooler leak
6. Crank Case Ventilator Failure
7. Bad Vacuum reservoir
8. Pressure sensor failure hot or cold side
9. MAP Sensor leak
10. VAC Pump Failure
11. carbon build up
12. CATS gone bad or cloged
13. Turbo Shaft Play
14. Acorns built up in the intake pipe
a. this was my personal problem and i found this after it had been in to 2 MINI Dealers and a Indy Shop, all of which could not figure out why it was happening)

So "long story short " is don't wait, start trying to figure out which of the parts above or others could be causing your problem.

What I wrote above is in at least 3 other posts in this thread just so you know reading is your friend.

 

Has anyone found any correlation between the DME and this error? I've had this code since day one. The guy who sold me the car 2 years ago SWORE it was a MAF issue, but that got replaced early on in my ownership and it didn't work... What I've done so far:

-MAF replacement
-Diverter valve replaced with OE part
-Intake airbox replaced with a well sealed OE one
-Turbo to intake hose replaced with a Forge part
-Noisemaker delete with Forge part
-Resonator downpipe replaced with NM Engineering part
-Vacuum line replaced with silicone line
-All mounting points and clamps replaced with new ones
-All intercooler hoses tightened and system smoke checked
-Oil and coolant to Turbo feed lines ALL replaced with OE or DT versions
-Turbo replaced

NONE of this stopped the 2885 and in fact it got WORSE and EASIER to trigger after replacing the turbo. The NEXT thing I was ABOUT to try was replacing the pressure regulator with an OE equivalent...

and then the engine cratered.

Bottom end failure caused cyl 4 to lose all compression, 60% in cyl3 and 75% in cyl 1 & 2. So, now I'm basically looking at a total rebuild or engine swap. BEFORE I invest another 6K into this car, I heard or read somewhere that it is possible the actual DME is causing the 2885 error and so I'm asking all of you here if that even sounds like a possibility or a red herring? The DME apparently costs $1700 and you have to get a new one because you cannot recode a used DME from another car unless it was the EXACT same year and equipment/options setup? This came from a guy who's been dealing with other BMW's for years.

I can't deal if I do a replacement engine, fire it up and the code comes right back with literally everything else having been replaced or checked INCLUDING the engine and THEN find what I needed was a DME all that time.

Thoughts?

 

Replace the pressure converter. The pressure converter (PC) controls the waste-gate actuator - no control -> no boost....
2885 means the ECU's boost target is not reached, for example, ECU wants 15 psi, system can't make it that high.
7 of 11 items on your list have nothing to do with controlling boost.
Debugging 2885 is tough because there are so many items that can cause it. Vac lines, pressure converter, waste-gate, turbo,vacuum tank, Diverter valve, waste-gate actuator
Not very likely the ECU is at fault here, particularly since the PC has not been replaced.

 

Dkdzyn --- my engine is highly modified and my 2885 code always came up when I didn't downshift with a pedal-to-the-metal condition. Sudden hard acceleration should be done when in boost RPM's --- by "sudden" I mean passing on a highway, or climbing a steep hill. Hard acceleration from a stop wouldn't cause a 2885. Granted, my engine isn't typical, and your 2885 may be caused by a legitimate hardware failure. My 2885 was caused by the big turbo spooling too late. A remap helped, but it still happened, that's why downshifting prevented the code.

Thefarside is correct about debugging 2885's --- many possible causes, including ECU. However it's highly improbable for the ECU to be at fault, more than likely something to do with wastegate control --- unless of course, your engine is also highly modified. If you needed a walnut blast, have a blocked cat, or some other condition causing slow / sluggish performance, that could also have been your problem. What year is it and how many miles?