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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
...However it's highly improbable for the ECU to be at fault, more than likely something to do with wastegate control --- unless of course, your engine is also highly modified. If you needed a walnut blast, have a blocked cat, or some other condition causing slow / sluggish performance, that could also have been your problem. What year is it and how many miles?
My engine had 126,600 on it and was totally stock. Before doing anything to modify it (really just getting rid of resonator/noisemaker) I put ANOTHER stock intake on it to be sure the cracked mounts (which were causing my airbox to simply rattle and shift around loosely) weren't adding flex and airleaks. I had just gotten all of the cylinder heads and valves cleaned and the vacuum lines replaced with silicone ones. That said, I have suspected the cat being bogged down if only because when I got a dent in my exhaust repaired, the 2885 became a MUCH LESS common a error. MAYBE there was further restriction in the exhaust? OR POSSIBLY something in my engine itself was creating an issue. It is still odd that when it crapped out, not only was Cyl 4 down to zero compression, but the other three were all 75% or below but the valves all seem to be seating properly.
I have a brand new Pressure Converter in hand and ready to install (I'd already ordered it and it was shipped when my engine died) and virtually everything else in the system is either new or cleared. So, if I get the motor replaced, then I'm praying the dreaded 2885 doesn't come back... As a kind of "extra precaution" I was thinking of putting on a larger intercooler while the front end was off...
My engine had 126,600 on it and was totally stock. Before doing anything to modify it (really just getting rid of resonator/noisemaker) I put ANOTHER stock intake on it to be sure the cracked mounts (which were causing my airbox to simply rattle and shift around loosely) weren't adding flex and airleaks. I had just gotten all of the cylinder heads and valves cleaned and the vacuum lines replaced with silicone ones. That said, I have suspected the cat being bogged down if only because when I got a dent in my exhaust repaired, the 2885 became a MUCH LESS common a error. MAYBE there was further restriction in the exhaust? OR POSSIBLY something in my engine itself was creating an issue. It is still odd that when it crapped out, not only was Cyl 4 down to zero compression, but the other three were all 75% or below but the valves all seem to be seating properly.
I have a brand new Pressure Converter in hand and ready to install (I'd already ordered it and it was shipped when my engine died) and virtually everything else in the system is either new or cleared. So, if I get the motor replaced, then I'm praying the dreaded 2885 doesn't come back... As a kind of "extra precaution" I was thinking of putting on a larger intercooler while the front end was off...
If you decide to replace / repair the engine, take a photo of the cat's intake end and post it for us. Somebody with more experience should be able to see whether or not it's fouled.
For you guys who concluded it was wastegate or turbo issues, were you guys getting boost pressure or low/none. I’m getting the code and my boost PSI is fine. 15 ish stock. 22 with NM power module. Car drives pretty good. I replaced the valve cover yesterday that was leaking a lot and it helped the car drive better but the code still came back unfortunately. Think I’ll check vacuum lines and other cheap stuff first
Sorry for not replying earlier with what cured the code on my car. I wound up replacing the diverter valve with an Alta manual diverter valve. Problem solved and the car sounds and runs much better with a more consistent power curve.
I too have been plagued by 2885, but as I don’t drive the car very often it has sat unattended. Recently I have been motoring more often and have been reinvigorated to identify and solve this pesky problem. Borrowed a scope cam and what do I see when looking at the wastegate? Nothing. It isn’t there. The flap FELL OFF and is sitting on top of the cat inside the down pipe. How in the hell is that even possible? This turbo was purchased from G Pop Shop back in 2013, but only has 28,700 miles on it. Seems extremely early for such a catastrophic failure, yes? I’ve reached out to them but am not holding my breath they’ll help out. My car is stock so nothing obvious to cause such a failure nor void a warranty.
Attached are two *bad* photos: 1) shows the wastegate flap napping pleasantly inside my down pipe and 2) shows a weirdly chewed up wastegate actuator stud.
TL;DR WASTEGATEGATE FLAP FELL OFF. BUY NEW TURBO.
Sleepy wastegate flap in a very wrong location The stud where the flap attaches. Been chewed on by a bear?
Wow GPopShop got back with me and are offering to replace the waste gate at their cost of $60, or rebuild the whole thing for $450. What is everybody's thoughts on rebuilt turbos? Mind you this unit was flawless except the waste gate.
I would replace the waste gate for sure at $60. Rebuilding the turbo really depends on your available funds.
It may be worth it to pull the turbo and at least have them visually inspect/bench test it and then decide if it really needs to be rebuilt or not.
If the turbo is building correct boost and not having any other problems, it's probably fine!
I would replace the waste gate for sure at $60. Rebuilding the turbo really depends on your available funds.
It may be worth it to pull the turbo and at least have them visually inspect/bench test it and then decide if it really needs to be rebuilt or not.
If the turbo is building correct boost and not having any other problems, it's probably fine!
Agree^^ This makes sense. Your car will be down anyway, and pulling the turbo isn't that much more work.
I just wanted to emphasize one of the earlier replies that was made about this 2885 boost deviation plausibility code / limp mode. If you had to remove the cylinder head for any reason, you can likely mix and match the electrical connectors between the VANOS solenoid, fuel tank breather valve, and the boost waste gate solenoid. All three components uses the exact same looking connector and exact same color wiring.
Only ways to confirm you've mixed up the connectors are to:
1. Unplug each connector and run a scan of the DME to see what errors or codes you will get. So if you unplug the VANOS connector, you should get an error for VANOS solenoid malfunction or deactivation or whatever. If you get a fuel tank purge valve or wastegate solenoid valve error, then you've just solved your 2885 problem.
2. You can also unplug each of the connectors and probe them with a multimeter and cross reference the pins to the proper pins on the main wiring harness that plugs into the car's DME. I will provide wiring diagrams if you want to do it that way. Each of the connectors share the same orange wire that traces to pin 41 of the middle harness plug x60231. It's the white wires that will differ for each of the components.
Anyhow I did a valve job and ended up mixing all 3 connectors around. Car idled like a diesel truck or a cammed muscle car. Car would drive ok light throttle, but under 30% or more throttle would throw half engine symbol and go into limp mode. Got codes 2885 boost deviation plausibility, 2b64 secondary air intake manifold, 287d and 287e VANOS stair movement. Used Bimmerlink app on phone to do obd2 scan of DME.
One more thing, check your vacuum lines and also wastegate function using a Mitty vacuum pump. After getting all the connectors back into their correct spots, I still had no boost. When I went to use the vacuum pump to test my wastegate, I heard hissing sound and saw a small pin hole on the vacuum line that slips onto the nipple of the wastegate. So I trimmed that bad portion off and reconnected the line onto the wastegate and tested it for movement. Then went for a test drive and I got all my boost back and car has full power again . No more check engine lights, no more limp mode or half engine symbols, no more rough idle. Look at my pictures below
Wastegate solenoid wiring diagram Vanos solenoid wiring diagram X60232 wiring harness plug pinout Some codes I got related to this 2885 problem Again codes I got related to 2885 boost deviation Turbo working again after getting the electrical plugs straightened out
@Big Murff ...just want to make sure I understand your comment "So if you unplug the VANOS connector, you should get an error for VANOS solenoid malfunction or deactivation or whatever." ...that's only unplugging the one sensor then checking with a DME scan right?...not unplugging all three? I'm hopeful this is my problem...I had my head off to replace the head gasket, timing chain etc..I keep getting the 2885 code...especiall when I get on the engine a bit. I get the limp mode light although I can keep on driving...it doesn't seem like I've lost any power. Clear the code and drive without getting on the engine...no code...no plausible deviation etc...
Cost is around 60, I have one, quality seems fine, appearance is similar to the OEM.
Yeah, I'm nine months late to this dance party....
I am later than you but figured it might help someone with the same issue. If you want OEM supplier for the diverter / control / blow off valve which also gives bad codes, here is the best priced https://www.ecstuning.com/b-pierburg...658636606~pie/
It fixed my code.
I was having 2884 boost pressure deviation after about 3-4 seconds of wide open throttle. For about that normal 3-4 seconds of boost, everything seemed fine and boost reading was 1.2 bars. But then, CEL came on everytime.
Yesterday, I removed the vacuum hose that connects to wastegate, rerouted it from the same route with vacuum pump (behind the turbo oil line, didn't change the tubing since it seemed ok). now, it seems that it fixed the issue. I think maybe one of those vac lines gone bad, maybe it has a hole on it and after rerouting them that hole is now under the hose organizer thingy?
I was having 2884 boost pressure deviation after about 3-4 seconds of wide open throttle. For about that normal 3-4 seconds of boost, everything seemed fine and boost reading was 1.2 bars. But then, CEL came on everytime.
Yesterday, I removed the vacuum hose that connects to wastegate, rerouted it from the same route with vacuum pump (behind the turbo oil line, didn't change the tubing since it seemed ok). now, it seems that it fixed the issue. I think maybe one of those vac lines gone bad, maybe it has a hole on it and after rerouting them that hole is now under the hose organizer thingy?
Better check BOTH ends of the vacuum lines. The rubber will soften to mush if they get oil on them and will fall off. Been there, done that, fixed the issue. Mine fell off at the vacuum reservoir under the intake manifold.
I would just like to thank everyone who has shared their stories and knowledge! My 2885 was caused by the small piece of vac hose that attaches to the vacuum tank and the other end where it attaches to the vacuum pump! What a night and day difference it makes when the turbo actually works!
I struggled with this code for quite a while. First off, I bought a poorly maintained car and ended up with multiple problems. Had smokey oil exhaust so I changed the turbo, then I changed the cat converter (come to find out the previous owner deleted it and made a straight pipe and disguised it with exhaust wrap) and I changed the #2 oxygen sensor.
Still had the code. Plus a new one regarding the aux water pump.
Bought a new aux water pump and come to find out the previous owner deleted that, too, and shoved a resistor into the plug and covered it with 1 piece of electrical tape and held it to the wire with a zip tie. I guess my work jostled it too much and set off the code. Replaced the part and that code went away.
Then I checked my intake hose between the air filter and turbo and found a good size crack on the underside where it mounts to the turbo, not sure how I missed it earlier. Replaced it but still had the code.
Checked vacuum lines and found a crack in one right at the vacuum pump so I replaced it. Still had the code.
Pulled the vacuum solenoid and checked the electrical side of it and it seemed to be working. Checked the vacuum side and found it wasn't holding vacuum properly so I replaced it.
Pulled the vacuum solenoid and checked the electrical side of it and it seemed to be working. Checked the vacuum side and found it wasn't holding vacuum properly so I replaced it.
No more code, turbo finally spooling properly!
Thanks for posting. I find so often in these forums people post problems looking for help but then never post the fix when they figure it out. I can't tell you how many times I read a thread with no conclusion.
I had the same problem as ryanbradleystone. I had no boost and a 2885 code. I tried everything. I won't even list what I tried because it's everything.
The problem ended up being the boost control solenoid. Vacuum applied to the small nipple on the old one immediately leaked out (holding in my hand not connected to the car). The new one hold vacuums and slowly releases it. Swapped this part for a new one and full boost again.
To anyone with this problem, I would (1) check the vacuum lines, then (2) test and replace the inexpensive boost control solenoid. Part 11657599547
Hi all, to everyone experiencing the 2885. I tried everything before I found the solution.
Here is a list of everything I did that could relate to the 2885 code:
-changed vacuum lines
-changed intake piping
-removed resonator
-removed turbo muffler
-walnut blasting
-replaced diverter valve
-replaced boost pressure converter
-replaced hot side turbo (wastegate)
-replaced turbo
None of which made a huge difference.
After a lot of research I did finally decide to clean the catalytic converter as I saw it had some dirt on top.
I thought it could have been the CAT from the start but I never acted on it until today and I’m glad I did. FULL POWER BABY! I held a flashlight in the top opening and I scraped of the dirty top layer of the CAT with a long flathead screwdriver. An indicator of a clogged CAT could be white residue on the O2 sensor from all the heat.
hope this will help out someone with that ratchet 2885 code!
I had a crack in the turbo inlet pipe which no one had noticed. I fixed the crack and can't replicate the CEL so, whoohoo! We'll see how it goes I guess
It was weird, it only showed up under acceleration in 5th gear but if you were about 3-3.5k rpm and accelerated it turned the CEL on like it was a switch.
11-18-2018, 01:16 PM
