That kind of 'ticking' noise is often a sign that the throwout bearing in the clutch is going bad...

Thanks guys.

Regarding the flywheel chatter - will this do further harm?

What about the throwout bearing - will this do further harm?

I appreciate you all chiming in.

Not sure if "flywheel chatter" is a catch-all term for what I was suggesting (throwout bearing). If it is the throwout bearing, I don't think the presence of the 'ticking' is doing further harm; it's just an indication that the part is wearing out...

But like anything else in situations involving moving parts, if if fails entirely, there's the chance it could cause additional damage. I would personally monitor it; if the 'ticking' noise progressively worsens, take it to a qualified mechanic and have them diagnose and/or repair it.

I hear a little ticking at idle when I let the clutch up in neutral. It's subtle but goes away when I push back down on the clutch pedal. FYI

I posted elsewhere about a ticking that recently developed on my 08 Straight Cooper Clubman. My dealer couldn't duplicate it after the 260 mile drive, but offered up possibilities of vacuum pump and others. After reading all the noise forums here on Stock Problems Issues, I've decided not to worry too much. Mine is an intermittent ticking and a bit of "Dieseling" sound at first rolling. it can be present, however, when warmed up.
In general, the engine is sweet sounding, so I'll wait and see, and read more forums.

noise that goes away when the clutch is in is the throwout bearing eventually it will need to be serviced. On old 5.0 mustangs we would try and lubricate the bearing with a long extension on a grease gun nozzle , but its a band aid fix and if any gets on or near the clutch disc your day is ruined.

Would changing the oil to 5W40 fix the valve tick?
 

Would changing my oil from 5W30 Full Synthetic to 5W40 Full Synthetic fix my valve tick

To address your question directly: it may depend on when the valve tick is happening (when the engine is cold vs. when it's warmed up)...

If the ticking happens when the engine is cold (at start), then goes away after the engine warms up, changing from 5W30 to 5W40 probably won't help. The first part of the oil grade (in this case, the "5W") indicates the oil viscosity when the oil is cold, and the second number (in this case, "30" or "40) is the rating when the oil is at operating temperature (nominally 100 deg C/212 deg F); higher numbers indicate thicker oil under the given condition. So by switching from 5W30 to 5W40, you aren't using an oil with a different viscosity when the engine is cold because the lubrication value of the oil at that condition is the same.

The first thing to do in these cases is be sure your oil isn't low or old & dirty; either condition can cause abnormal ticking noises. Assuming neither is the case, you might have a deeper mechanical issue that will require a repair. But trying a different oil grade is a worthwhile first step in debugging your particular the problem.

MINI used to publish a list of approved oils; among the oils on the list was Mobil I 0W40 full-synthetic European formula. In your case it might make more sense to try that one, which would give you a thinner oil to get oil flowing more freely at cold engine start, as well as a thicker oil at operating temperature to keep the hydraulic lifters operating properly. I happen to use that oil in my MINI and don't have any issues with valves ticking -- but by the same token, I can't promise you simply switching to Mobile I 0W40 oil will cure your problem either -- it's just a place to start...

I also don't know what oil change interval you happen to use with your MINI -- and debate rages among owners about what a proper interval should be -- but changing your oil more frequently might also be helpful. The engines in these cars seem very temperamental about oil-related factors (cleanliness, proper level, etc.). MINI/BMW began with a recommended interval of 15,000 miles, then backed it off to a recommendation of 10,000 miles a few years ago. A lot of us (myself included) use a 5,000-mile interval. Just something for you to consider as well...