After much hesitation I finally bit the bullet and had a go at this..

BMW have a website www.minitechinfo.com where you can access the same programs that the dealer uses for a daily fee. currently its $30 per day. It has the programs and all technical docs and info for the Mini.

There are currently 2 versions available,
The older so called 2G software which has DIS (diagnostics) and Progman (or CIP, programming individualisation and coding) in the last few weeks a newer version has become available known as 3G this has the newer ISTA (diags and testing) and ISTA/P (programming and coding)

A few months ago I got the 2G system working but it never felt consistant and I decided against trying a coding. I must say the getting it working was to say the least a marathon, Although the guy at tech support was nice he was unable to help much and I had to work the multilple problems out myself.. I am a service engineer and I found this difficult, but anyone wanting to try it PM me as I think I have the problems licked now.

With the 3G however the programming software was much better intuitive and loaded up right away, however the diags software just would not load... BMW are looking at that and I hope to see it soon.

So here goes on how to do this..

 

NOTE** This procedure can be costly.. If it goes wrong you can ruin a module. I would advise the faint hearted and non computer Geeks to stay away!!

Firstly you need a Pass through tool, the only one I found that is below $1500 is a small one from Drewtech, called a "Mongoose", get the ISO/CAN version and they run at about $285. Then you need a DC power supply to hold the battery at 13v throughout the whole session. A battery charger will not do!! BMW recommend a 40Amp supply which will maintain the voltage even if the windows operated, lights came on etc.. I bought a 36A supply online that had a varable voltage from 12-15v it was around $150. You will also need a HARDWIRE network connection to your garage..wireless is risky..

You can load up the software online without the car and be warned it can take hours.. follow the instructions to the letter, load the various elements in the correct order.. I will only talk about 3G here as its better and will eventually replace 2G.

Not obvious in the instructions is the need to have sun java and microsoft .net software loaded before you start. then you load the software in the following order:

PTT (Mongoose) driver)
PTT (BMW) driver
WSM server (this starts the ISTA/ISTA-software)
reboot
ISTA (this is a loader that loads the actual ISTA program)

Then after another reboot (just in case) you can start.

I am only going to talk about ISTA-P here as I was unsuccessful in loading ISTA, (for me it times out after 2 hours, BMW are looking into that problem)
BEFORE YOU START YOU MUST RESET ALL ERRORS in the car using ISTA software(OK so I used DIS from G2)

The first part is to load the actual ISTA-P software, it can be done away from the car.. It will take 30-40 mins the first time.

When its up you can start. connect the car, the supply, and turn the ignition on. You open a new session, then select a computer, then select a PTT (pass through tool) then it pops up a few warnings, looks at the car and downloads a load of files (about 30-40 mins) Then it will pop a few times with advice, (one popup asks to move the connector to the MOST bus.. Ignore it) now the system will interogate the car and come up with an action plan..(check out the voltage display at the top, make sure its at 13v or more..at any time it will warn you if it drops below 13v) In my case it involved update reprogramming of 6 modules and a few recodes as well. I also went to the "vehicle" tab and checked a retrofit of the MFSW switches (my plan all along!!)

Things are a bit grey here but I easily worked out what to do, I started a program session and it gave me some advice (write down service intervals) and was pretty good at showing me progress. At the start of 2 module programs I had a warning that the PTT was not connected, I crapped myself and disconnected the Mongoose and reconnected it, after a little while it carried on, I suspect that this may have been due to the module being cleared prior to programming and I could have just waited.. The whole process took around 3 hours and although I had some advice on resetting various things in the end "report" the only thing I needed to do was reset the "condition based service warning" which can be done without software, but had I needed to I could have used DIS (ISTA in the future) to do the suggested steps.

Finally you need to use the diag software (DIS or ISTA) to reset the inevitable errors that will have been logged during the process

Its very general but I hope this helps anyone thinking of doing this.. BTW my Cruise is working.... mission accomplished..

Terry

 

This should be useful for a shop but seems rather ambitious for an owner to get for their own car. Have you discovered any special customization features or settings that may be unknown to most people?

 

The whole online access thing is really geared for a specialist shop not the owner..,, Basically you can do anything the dealer can do, and yes I agree its ambitious, but most parts in these cars (and any modern car for that matter) need some kind of programming, calibrating or coding after replacement..

I am a RABID car repaiir enthusiast!! I am also a computer geek-- my work on CT scanners is not a far throw from this stuff. But mostly I wont pay $100 an hour for a mechanic and thinking ahead, given that I keep most of my cars over 10 years, I felt it was a learning experience I will use in the future. In the end the money I saved in labor installing the MFSW (cruise control) myself almost paid for the hardware I needed, but lets forget about the countless hours I spent working it out.. Not for most though as you say..


I just wanted to let other nutters like me know that yes, its possible.. Not easy but possible..

Terry

 

Good to hear the DIY reflash/programming is possible and worked for you. I plan on keeping my latest MINI until the wheels fall off and have lots of plans including an engine swap this winter. I recently purchased a PTT from I-M Actia and an 800 watt power supply/charger from Deutronic.Thanks for the write-up and the knowlege.

 

YEP! I spent over a hundred bucks for a Ducati factory service manual. It paid for itself with the first maintenance task I completed. That also applies to all the specialty tools I had to purchase as well.

The BEST bank for the buck for me was purchasing a ODBCII scan tool (run on my plam). I've fixed so many sensors over the years its not funny. I've saved thousands of dollars doing all my own work. Its not so mysterious anymore.

Right now I'm determining if the codes that are coming back from my Jeep grand cherokee are due to a split rubber tube or truly a failed part. The dealer wanted 300 + labor to fix it...yeah right.

Thats a great find!

 

Interesting, thanks for the write-up! No wonder rear fog light reprogramming is a nightmare, sounds like even the BMW techs have issues with their own software. As a matter of fact, when you were reprogramming your MFSW did you happen to see a rear fog light option swimming around in there?

Also, may I ask what are the specs and OS of the laptop you were running? Is there any minimum spec PC you would recommend? I'm assuming because you mention .NET you're running Windows but...XP or Vista? Does it even matter?

 

Sheesh, turbo tel...just be glad you're not a brain surgeon, or you'd be shaving your head right about now!

 

Windows XP professional and IE7 are the requirements for the software, .net is a download that you can get free, the Minitech site has links to all the software you need preloaded.. I used a regular PC nothing special, the link to the German servers is slow, and the car communication is really slow so any PC can keep up I'm sure..

And No I did not notice if foglight was there, but sure that if its an option it will be there.. There was a 2 page(?) list of them. once I installed the MFSW it was no longer on the "retrofit" list, but was showing on my options.

Brain surgery... thats next week!!

 

Thanks terry! Sounds straightforward enough from the actual hardware connections and setup perspective if you're PC savvy, but ultimately you're working on a 20k+ car where the actual scenarios aren't "plug and play" enough to warrant enough confidence for the average joe, and where the consequences can potentially be disastrous. Thus -- on behalf of fellow geeks everywhere you have my utmost respect and kudos

Ultimately I'm geeky enough to try it, but unfortunately my MINI's my DD, so if I screw up its all over for me . I've always wanted a second MINI to tear apart and learn the trade, though -- if I ever did I'd be all over this!!

 

Thanks so much for the info....

Matt

 

Amazing!! Thanks for the info, that is awesome to know that is possible (not easy) to DYI!!! If you ever go back into it, I would love to see a few screen shots of the application.

Joey

 

After several hours of trial,a few errors(nothing catastrophic) and ALOT of patience I successfully retro'ed the MFSW today on my Cooper and it works like a charm. I did see the front and rear fog retrofit for the Cooper and the rear fog light for the MCS listed as well.

 

Anything about retrofitting HD radio? I have all the connections in the rear, yet the dealer says it can't be done.

Can powerfold mirrors be retrofitted as well?

 

They both showed up on the retrofit list for my Cooper so yes it can be done.

 

Awesome! I'll have to have a fight with my dealer then....

Any other secret parts that can be retrofitted or programming changes that might not be very well known? I saw a kit for dimming side mirrors on RealOEM...

 

Hmm, interesting. I know the 07 MCS can be retrofitted for rear fogs so I'm wondering now why the later build R56s cannot be. Or maybe things have changed since on the software side...maybe I'll prod MINI USA again to check on the status.

Thank you for the verification

 

Does this system allow for "reinitializing" the power window module?? For those of us who keep having the windows forget their position that would be awesome for out-of-warranty Minis.

 

Any response on the possibility of turning on retrofitted rear fogs in the 08 MCS by reprogramming? Sounds like taking the car to a suitably equipped independent and having them read off the options that appear on the options pages should provide an answer to this vexing question. No?

Not wanting to leave all the footwork to others, while waiting for an answer, the Footwell Module comes apart tomorrow and the rear fogs get jumpered to the front fogs (in CA, we get rear-ended in the fog) with and without an extra relay. In which case, my retrofitted second fog light toggle will be for display purposes only since it is apparently powered by a relay somewhere in Whereinthehell.

 

Problem is you don't know the options untill the car is connected and the software has downloaded the possibilities from BMW.. It depends on the build.. But yes a suitably equiped independant will be able to do this..

I agree on the fog lamps.. I come from the UK and have driven in Germany a lot.. they are lifesavers.. Problem here on the East coast is that some people with them do not understand when to use them, or more to the point NOT to use them (they are bloody annoying on a crisp clear night!!)

Terry

 

I'm guilty of this.

 

Just curious, what is on your retrofit list? Please list everything that you have not yet retrofitted (I realize once something is retrofitted, it is removed from the list.

 

Unfortunately they charge $30 a day for access but should I be there again for any reason I will..

Thjere is also a list of the fitted equipment , with the two you can see everything..

Terry

 

My list was three pages long and was only viewable while connected to the server so I don't have a copy.

 

www.minisf.com programmed my rear fogs to work for a mere $188.00. Needless to say, a Mongoose and power supply are on my Xmas list. My MCS production code is MF73 (12/2007). Best guess, this option is on all the 2008 MCS. Now, if somebody will tell me if I disconnect the battery when I plug in the power supply, I'll be on my way at some point in January.