In another thread (https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lternator.html), I mentioned that the power steering went out on my daughter's R52 - I've traced it to a bad alternator. Since that is going to be replaced (and it involves bringing the front end into the service position, etc.), I've decided to replace a few other things while I have access to that part of the engine.

So, besides the alternator, and with almost 160k miles on the odometer, I'm asking for BTDT suggestions on what other items to address. Here is my list so far:

• replace alternator
• replace water pump
• oil-service on the supercharger
• new timing chain tensioner (not related to the front of the engine, but something I saw that is likely due, given the mileage/age of the vehicle
• new temperature sensor (the one behind the supercharger/waterpump)
• new spark plugs
• clean the cooling fan for the EPS motor
• clean the EPS motor (does anyone have link for an how-to on that? The only link I found was to an old forum that is now a FB group, and I can't locate the original article)

This week, I finished installing the lift I picked up last Fall - that should help make this work easier. I test-lifted the Mini today with it


While it was in the air, I noticed that the reservoir hose for the power steering is leaking (red arrow). I'll be replacing that, too.

 

Nice lift. What model did you get? I’m looking to buy one also

there are some very thorough “while-your-in-there” threads here. I don’t think I could do it justice

the ps hoses leak on these cars. Seems like all of them eventually…

 

Also, post pics and update if you can…always interesting

 

I went with a Mohawk A7 lift - it came out of a GM powertrain facility here in MI and went through 2 more owners (but never installed) until I picked it up last Fall. The A-7 allows for a narrower profile in the garage, and the low column height can fit in my sub-12' ceiling (I have 11'3" to my ceiling) but still run the lines overhead to keep the floor clear between the columns or not have to cut and bury them in the floor.

More detail on the lift install is here:
Mohawk A-7 Lift Installation at garagejornal.com forum

I'll do some more searching for the "while you're in there" threads...the FAQ thread didn't lead me to them when I checked last night.

 

Found this one. Any good?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...here-list.html

 

Awesome - thanks! I'll read it through!

 

FYI - Aftermarket alternators, and doesn't matter where purchased will not work.( for very long )
Seen one guy go through 3 of them from an Autozone type place until he was red flagged on future purcahses/returns there.
They would last just a few weeks...
For some reason, the OEM alternators are proprietary to the car....

 

I started diving in to the Mini repairs today. I have the front bumper off and the radiator/etc. in service mode.

I decided to tackle something "quick" first, and started by replacing the spark plugs. I started with Cylinder #1...and the damn plug wouldn't come out @##%@ ?!!?!

So, let me describe what was happening... I was able to remove the spark plug boot, and the spark plug socket would go down to the plug, but it didn't seem to be slipping on to the plug's hex shank. Instead, the socket didn't seem to be dropping far enough in to the spark plug hole. I skipped Cylinder #1 and went on to 2-4 and those I swapped without issue.

I then went back to Cylinder #1 and got out an inspection endoscope camera I have. Looking down in to the hole, something seemed to be stuck around the outside of the plug. I reached down with a long pick and was able to get whatever it was to spin - it also had some "give" to it when I pressed on it. So, at this point I didn't know if it was a piece of broken spark plug boot or what. I bent a hook in to the end of the pick and held the pick with needle-nose visegrips in order to get as far down that narrow spark plug tube as I could. I was able to get past and under the blocking item, and the turn and hook it with the pick and pull it out. Once that piece was out, the rest of the spark plug swap went fine.

I'm trying to figure out what was the offending rubber piece around the plug is? My best guess is that it was an insert from another spark plug socket used when these Autolite plugs were last installed (or were last attempted to be changed, and then they abandoned the effort?). I installed NGK plugs as the replacements (Iridium BKR6EIX).




I have the Intake Air Intercooler removed and am continuing on the next replacements (alternator, waterpump, supercharger oil service, etc.). I've ordered up an accessory belt tensioner tool, too.

 

Clever fix! That moment when you know you’ve got it…

 

Update for today: got far enough in where the supercharger is out.


A question - do most people just use screw-style clamps when reinstalling the hoses? Most of the OE clamps are falling apart as I remove them.

You can see the new idler pulley for the serpentine belt on the left (installed that today).

 

You can use screw type clamps for the power steering hoses, but I like the OEM clamps for the coolant hoses they're less likely to loosen up over time compared to screw type clamps.

I would consider changing your accessory belt tensioner, crank pulley, and crank position sensor o-ring while you have things apart.you could also consider the oil pan gasket if it's showing any signs of leaking. I'd also inspect your motor mounts and see if any of them are cracked or worn. mine were done at about 100k miles.

 

Thanks for the tips! I'll look into getting some of the clamps, then.

I ordered a complete Contitech serpentine belt kit: it included the tensioner, belt, and idler pulley. I did examine the crank pulley (based on advice in other threads, too) and it looks OK (picture below) with no signs of cracks, etc. But, is it a situation where there would not really be visible signs if it is on its way to failing?

 

The oil in the supercharger is now changed! The pulley side drained about 70mL (and I refilled with 140mL). The water pump side drained only about 3mL (and I refilled with 40mL). I'm very glad I took the extra time to check the supercharger oil and change it as part of this alternator replacement.


Only about 3mL or oil drained out of the waterpump side of the supercharger. I refilled it with 40mL of fresh AC Delco supercharger oil 10-4041 or 12345982 .

The color of the oil drained from the waterpump side of the supercharger wasn't too bad...there just wasn't much of it left after almost 160k miles.

This is the oil as drained from the pulley side of the supercharger. It looks darker as gathered in the container, but as it drained out of the supercharger it actually didn't look as dark as I feared it would.

Altogether, about 70mL drained from the pulley side of the supercharger. I refilled it with 140mL of fresh AC Delco supercharger oil 10-4041 or 12345982 .

 

My daughter's Mini is back on the road! I'll run through the original list of items and then the additional items I added to the maintenance (based on the suggestions here and in the linked threads) and discuss any issues I encountered.

• replace alternator - this was straightforward
• replace water pump - also straightforward
• oil-service on the supercharger - as mentioned in an earlier post, it's a good thing I took the time to do this because the waterpump-side was really low
• new timing chain tensioner (not related to the front of the engine, but something I saw that is likely due, given the mileage/age of the vehicle) - the old one was still functioning, but there was a definite wear point on the face of the tensioner. I'm glad I did this.
• new temperature sensor (the one behind the supercharger/waterpump) - I was confused on this one, see below about the CPS
• new spark plugs - glad I did these, too. See the earlier post on the fun I encountered removing the old one from Cyl1.
• clean the cooling fan for the EPS motor - this was caked with dirt and grease/oil/crud because of the leaking oil seal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the leaking power steering hose. Also glad I took the time to do this.
• clean the EPS motor (does anyone have link for an how-to on that? The only link I found was to an old forum that is now a FB group, and I can't locate the original article) - I found a good youtube video that goes into how to clean the motor. There was a bunch of carbon dust inside the motor housing/cover of our EPS motor. I used compressed air to blow it all clean. I ran into a problem here, as one of the bolts for the cover would not come out. I had to drill it out and then use a longer bolt and nut in place of the original bolt/screw.
  You Tube
• Additional item: Changed Engine Oil and Filter
• Additional Item: Serviced the manual transmission fluid (used Redline MTL)
• Additional Item: New serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley
• Additional Item: New air filter
• Additional Item: New Crankshaft Position Sensor (VDO part) - the CPS oil seal was bad and seeping oil. As the car has almost 160k miles, I decided to just replace the whole sensor, rather than only replace the oil seal. This is kindof behind the supercharger, so it was easier to do this replacement now. Before I got at the front of the engine (from what I deciphered from what I read and found online), I thought this was a temperature sensor, but then I realized it was the CPS, instead.
• Additional Item: New Knock Sensor (Facet part) - As this is behind the supercharger, I thought it cheap insurance to replace it now.
• Additional Item: Replaced the AC clutch/solenoid/coil
• Additional Item: Replaced O-ring on the dipstick housing (in to the block/pan).

Another problem I ran into was that the ground boss on the right engine mount broke when I tried to attach the ground cable. I ground off the sharp edges of the broken boss and then repositioned and reattached that ground connection directly to the engine block via one of the supercharger mounting bolts. This was the second screw/bolt boss that cracked on me in the course of these repairs. The aluminum cast parts Mini used do not seem to like Midwest weather, I think.


The car is running great, and my daughter is thrilled to have it back on the road!

While I was under the car, I found some items to put on the list for the Spring (or sooner if they become too problematic): shocks/struts (I'll use Bilstein B6-series), upper strut mounts, and front lower ball joints. Such is life with an old car...but it's fun to drive!

 

Great work, it is worth it. Fun car w style