So I've got a 2004 MCS, and almost from the get-go it's had some issues, but taking it to two different dealers for maintenance and repairs hasn't helped.

Pretty much from when I originally got the car it'd have a hesitation when starting -- I'd have to hold the key in the start position for a few seconds when turning it in the ignition before it would "catch". But sometimes it'll start up immediately when turning the key (though that's rare). Starting it, turning it off, and then starting it again doesn't have consistent results -- sometimes it'll start right up immediately after turning it off, but most of the time it'll still hesitate. The software was upgraded at the dealership once or twice to try to fix this, but it's never made any difference and diagnostics didn't seem to report anything wrong with this.

About a year ago the power steering motor developed a short and fried up. Got that replaced, and then about 2 or 3 months ago I suddenly had a loss of power-steering again when pulling into a parking space, and all the dashboard lights started turning off and on and the needles jumped around, but once I got the car off and turned it back on it ran fine. I'm glad that happened at low speed in a parking lot, but it really freaked me out!

It's been happening for so long I can't remember when it started, but my check engine light loves to come and go as it pleases. At first it seemed to only like Exxon gas (using Shell would make it turn on), but now it pretty much stays on ALL THE TIME. It'll turn off by itself maybe only once or twice a month, but then - bam! - it'll come right back on within a day or so. Usually the DSC light comes on at the same time the check engine light comes on (or if the check engine light is already on then the DSC light will come on and the check engine light will remain on). It doesn't seem that the DSC light is coming on because of a loss of traction - at least I haven't *noticed* any wheels slipping as much as these lights turn on... well, I lie, sometimes the wheels have slipped and caused the DSC light to blink and the check engine light will sometimes come on, but that's not very often. Even the other day I started up the car and before I even drove anywhere the DSC light came on while the car was still idling, and if the check engine light wasn't already on at that time then I wouldn't have been surprised to see it turn on too. Every time I've taken it in for maintenance I've been told that it's been throwing a code like it's backfiring (if that seems to make any sense), or that an air-bubble went down the gas line and that I shouldn't run it so low on gas, but this'll happen no matter what level of gas I have in the tank. The dealers I've taken it to don't seem to have any idea what causes this, either.

The car itself is stock, and I've got no add-ons or such other than the Dension iceLink.

I've read somewhere on NAM about bad wiring harnesses and check engine lights, but I'd hate to pay to get something like that swapped and have no difference! How much does the wiring harness + labor cost for an issue like that, anyway?

The thing that really concerns me is the check engine light. I don't want something really bad to be happening and I'll be unaware because of this indicator not working properly!

And tangentially related: I was at the DC auto show last week and was checking out the 2008 MINIs, and I was wondering if it might be worthwhile to try to get this whole car replaced. But... could there be any thing wrong with a car that would keep the dealer from taking it as a trade-in? I've taken this in to two different dealers to get these issues fixed, but if they've got no idea what's been causing the hesitation when starting or why the check engine light likes to stay on, why would they want it back? Would they let me trade the value of it in towards a new one? I don't know anything about trade-ins and such, so could someone help clarify this for me?

Thanks,

Glenn

 

I am assuming that your car is out of the factory warranty and this is all on your dime?

There are basically two separate questions here. First, the issue of what is wrong with the car. Based upon the information that you gave there is no real way of diagnosing the problem. Everyone could guess but it would only be a guess. The dealer will have the tools to check codes that are generated and stored when your check engine light comes on and theoretically that should help them diagnose the problem. If I were in your shoes I would do two things. Call the service department of one or both dealers who worked on it, ask for the manager and tell them your tale and ask them what they think you should do. Second, if you didnt get anywhere with that approach try getting in touch with MINI directly and getting them involved.

As for your second question. You can trade in a car in any condition you would like and it is up to the dealership to appraise the car and give you a value for the car. Choosing to be entirely forthcoming about the problems you are having will be up to you and your conscience. If you say nothing maybe you will get lucky and the car will not have any problems when they test drive it, maybe it will. Obviously this would be misleading and dishonest and I for one would hope this wouldnt be your choice, not that my opinion would mean all that much to you.

I think talking to the service departments and/or MINI would be a good first step and depending on what you find out could help make your final decision much easier. Your problem is obviously electrical but those can be the toughest problems to track down. No matter what, you are paying for the car to be FIXED, not for them to experiment on until you are bankrupt or they get it right. Incidentally, I sold cars for 1.5 years and then was a service adviser for another 6 months so I have seen how dealerships work from the inside. Getting a service manager involved can often yield very good results. They have the power to make quick decisions, especially about cost to you. And there are always techs who are better than others. Some techs really are artists at their craft. They are rare but they get these types of problems thrown at them when the manager gets involved because the manager knows who to go to to get the car fixed right.

 

Exactly right. I'd definitely tell them about the issues if/when I take it in for trade (it's not like they're going away by themselves any time soon), but that's a good idea about talking with one of the service managers. I think I'll try pricing a new MINI and see what suggestions the service managers have so I can know what my options are and then take it from there.

At least my credit union gives me a good rate for car loans and I might have an excuse to play with the MINI configurator in the near future! Thanks for the reply!

 

I can tell you about your start up problem. Do you mean by "catching" that your engine wont turn over immediately when the key is in the start position? If so, (I have this on my 04 MCS sometimes) it is probably your clutch safety switch (when you have the clutch pedal on the floor). You gotta make sure the clutch pedal is in the wood before it will turn over. I have had this where I got nothing, and just pumped the clutch once more and it started up. As for your power steering motor, I am assuming its pretty common since I've seen the issue on here before and I am on my third one.
As for the check engine light, I would find out what code it is giving you. I run my tank down usually below 50 miles range on my computer display, and I have never had a problem with my fuel system. I dont think you would get a code on a backfire, as that would be caused by fuel igniting in the exhaust system, which means its not igniting in the engine, which means check your ignition. My car has a corroded terminal on the #3 wire, but has never thrown a code or misfired, other than a rare "rough idle". Its easy to check, just pull the wire boots off and take a look.
When I get that rough idle, either at a gas station or a friends house, I just tell people I have high lift cams .

 

I also have no mods and use regular (87) octane fuel pretty much all the time (except at track events). Hope I have helped you in any possible way.

 

Thanks for the suggestions! I tried making a point of putting the clutch down as far as it could go when I was leaving work this evening and it seemed to help a bit -- I'll see how it works out in the long run.

The funny thing is, after I made that first post last night, my MINI has turned off its check engine light (and it's stayed off after 3 trips in the car, which is almost unheard of). Maybe my MINI heard I made this post and that I was checking out the configurator online and decided to be on its best behavior now?

 

good to hear that it has decided to work! If it goes back to its habits, I'd definitely take it to the dealer and have a chat with service manager. That way, they will have all the info they need, and can hold on to the car for a while and get it properly diagnosed and fixed.