Solo So am I only guy who thinks working on Mini is infuriating?
#1
So am I only guy who thinks working on Mini is infuriating?
So started to work on my r59 mild STX build yesterday. Thought I'd do easy swaybar and shock install shame on me hadn't done any research on what a bear of job pulling swaybars would be? Yikes .....that's not normal! What were mini engineers thinking? Clearly not of mini service techs that have to work on these beasts. I have wrenched on al lot of cars and the r59 takes the cake as most infuriating of them all.
I decided I wasn't up for front so just focused on Koni sport and a h&r spring install. While that was easier still install the was frustrating. Like needing to drill out rear shock hats and washers for Koni. What a pain getting struts in and out of those knuckles. I'm spoiled working on Nissans and old Porsches
Looks like indeed I will need camber plates and rear adjustable arm to dial in preferred alignment.
Building up courage to install rear bar now.
So this is where I'm at now
I decided I wasn't up for front so just focused on Koni sport and a h&r spring install. While that was easier still install the was frustrating. Like needing to drill out rear shock hats and washers for Koni. What a pain getting struts in and out of those knuckles. I'm spoiled working on Nissans and old Porsches
Looks like indeed I will need camber plates and rear adjustable arm to dial in preferred alignment.
Building up courage to install rear bar now.
So this is where I'm at now
Last edited by grantsfo; 01-26-2014 at 10:03 AM.
#3
I actually don't think working on the mini is that bad. You're right though about having to take off way more stuff than should be necessary to get to stuff. But at least mini appears to have thought through how to get to each bolt. I've worked on way worse. Like NA miatas.
Oh and a tip for the front struts. Spray some PB Blaster then grab a factory style scissor jack from one of your other cars. Get a small length of 2x4. Put the jack on top of the knuckle and the 2x4 against the top of the wheel well. Use the jack to press the strut and steering knuckle apart. Should come apart super easy.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using NAMotoring
Oh and a tip for the front struts. Spray some PB Blaster then grab a factory style scissor jack from one of your other cars. Get a small length of 2x4. Put the jack on top of the knuckle and the 2x4 against the top of the wheel well. Use the jack to press the strut and steering knuckle apart. Should come apart super easy.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using NAMotoring
#4
Rear bar can be done in 45 minutes with a helper. Just drop the rearward 2 subframe bolts and loosen the forward 2. Pull bar out rearward through the gap between the subframe and body.
The front is mostly just time consuming, lots of unbolting and re-bolting. Its probably an afternoon's job. Disconnect the steering rack and front uprights. Unbolt the subframe (theres a lot of bolts) and drop it.
The front shocks suck.
The front is mostly just time consuming, lots of unbolting and re-bolting. Its probably an afternoon's job. Disconnect the steering rack and front uprights. Unbolt the subframe (theres a lot of bolts) and drop it.
The front shocks suck.
#5
I have very little experience working on cars, just what I've done preparing the MINIs for track and autocross. (Starting with wheels, moving to brake and now looking at suspension.) I did research what was involved and decided that the credit card was the right tool for this job. I got the local independent shop to do the rear bar for me, and I'l get them to do the shocks and struts when I'm ready for them.
[Fatcat is saying the shocks/struts will be ready next week.]
[Fatcat is saying the shocks/struts will be ready next week.]
#7
I have very little experience working on cars, just what I've done preparing the MINIs for track and autocross. (Starting with wheels, moving to brake and now looking at suspension.) I did research what was involved and decided that the credit card was the right tool for this job. I got the local independent shop to do the rear bar for me, and I'l get them to do the shocks and struts when I'm ready for them.
[Fatcat is saying the shocks/struts will be ready next week.]
[Fatcat is saying the shocks/struts will be ready next week.]
fortunately for me i'm having some handy guys from the local mini club helping out with this - and i'm still dreading it. i feel like the front bar will be a complete nightmare, worried about stripping threads in the rear control arms, etc.
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#8
Stripping rear threads is a non issue for me. I've never had it happen. The front bar sucks. I hated that lol. On the front disconnect the steering knuckle, hammer the upright off the bottom of the strut (disconnect away end link first) then support the upright/rotor assemble so the axle doesn't pop out. Then unbolt up top. Then it's out.
In the rear it's just the 2 bolts up top and one on bottom. Then navigate it out.
In the rear it's just the 2 bolts up top and one on bottom. Then navigate it out.
#9
I found the rear shocks, sway bar and lower control arm replacement pretty easy and straight forward. I've seen that the coupes and roadsters have an additional X brace arrangement that has to be removed or displaced too in addition. I went with Koni yellow with nm springs and found it to be straight forward replacement for the oem. Nothing special. I did change out the lower control arms as well and that was nothing technical either. Just measure the length of the replacement to the stock to get your rear alignment in the ball park.
Dropping the front cradle for a front sway bar replacement, for a first timer, is not for the faint of heart in my opinion. It is nice to have the assistance of someone who has done it before at least, and a lift with a tranny jack most helpful. I might add that if you are going to the work of pulling the front sway bar, I'd consider putting poly bushings in the lower control arms for additional rail-like handling. I got the pre-pressed from WayMotorWorks to ease that part of the job.
Dropping the front cradle for a front sway bar replacement, for a first timer, is not for the faint of heart in my opinion. It is nice to have the assistance of someone who has done it before at least, and a lift with a tranny jack most helpful. I might add that if you are going to the work of pulling the front sway bar, I'd consider putting poly bushings in the lower control arms for additional rail-like handling. I got the pre-pressed from WayMotorWorks to ease that part of the job.
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