Generally, yes you can access the top of the damper shaft. Not all combinations will necessarilly work though. With my previous plates (P&D and K-mac, it was easy to adjust the SPAX dampers which adjusted at the top. K-mac should work great with Koni, though it would be worth taking a careful look at the new versions as my experience was with the originals. With the H-sport that I have now (newer version), I don't think it would be as easy. Fortunately, the PSS9s adjust at the bottom!

Scott
90SM

 

I have RDR/Helix front adjujstable camber plates and Bilstein PSS9 coilovers.

The camber plates are not the limiting factor, coilover design and where the adjustments are made will decide how easy it would be to make changes.

On the PSS9s the rear shock is adjustable from the bottom and on the front it is adjustable also at the bottom of the shock under a rubber cover.

Before deciding on which coilovers just check where you do the adjustments.

Other than cost there isn't really that much downside to front adjustable camber plates. The benefits for performance driving in cornering and handling are worth the expense.

 

I agree with what you said Minihune, but also noted that his post lists Koni's, which adjust at the top. That's why I took a slightly different tact in my response. Koni adjustments should still work with most camber plates, but may require a modified tool with some designs.

Scott
90SM

 

Thanks for the fast replies. I do have the Koni's. Where could I find the camber Plates that would work with the koni's? I have been looking around the net for some. I think the Kmac's that Mini Mania would work.

By the way I didn't know there was shocks on the market that didn't adjust from the top. Sorry I didn't get that info into my last post.

Minihue and I have been talk alot about Camber plates . You have talked me into get the rear control arms and I want the camber plates too. Just need to find some that work with the koni's.

Thanks for the advice.

 

I have old (1st gen?) RDR/Helix camber plates and Koni Yellows. The camber plates have an opening down the middle that allows you to adjust the Konis. The plastic dial doesn't fit, so I used a dremel to make a knotch in a large-ish bolt, which I can slip down and adjust with a wrench. Because of the camber, I need to turn the steering wheel about 1/2 a turn one way for each side to get at the top adjustment **** on the Konis.

http://helix13.com/mini/products/suspension-chasis

Look at the picture of the camber plate on Helix's site. That's the same version I have. I stick my bolt into the middle slot. Whatever camber plate you're looking at getting, make sure it has a similar opening. Not ideal, but not a big hassle either.

 

OK,I get it.

Take a look at some of the pictures in this thread-
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=88474
See post #6.

For those that have adjustable shocks that only adjust from the tops you have to guess what might work and find a setting that you can keep. Something usable but likely a compromise for daily street use and for performance driving. You can take things apart to get to the adjuster but it's not as easy as when the adjuster is at the bottom of the shock.

 

Thanks the Pictures helped out alot. I believe I'm ready to make the move. I will be ordering them next week. Thanks

 

New Question!! I finally got the camber plates on and got the Mini to aligment shop.

Here is the probem/question, The shop could only get it to set to -.8 and I have the H sport Camber plates. Here is the link to the ones I have. http://www.jscspeed.com/mini/suspens...mberplates.htm .

Anyway is there some reason I can't get the -2.0. I looked at the camber plates and did preset them and they are all the way out where we should get close to the -2.0.

Here was the deal. When the shop finsh got it on the rack they could see that the driver side was set at -.5 and it was all the way out. The other side was -1.somthing. Could there be a part backwards or something?

Help!!

Good new is that they didn't change me the full price because they know that it wasn't right and I will have to come back. And also the Rear is dead on the mark.

 

I'm a little confused by your phrase "all the way out". When looking at the top of the camber plates (from under the hood), the blue bar with the two capscrews should be pushed in towards the center of the engine compartment for maximum camber, not out towards the fender.

I've currently got H-Sport camber plates (2.5" spring verison) and I'm currently set at -2.4 with more available. Even with the larger diameter springs you ought to be able to get -2degs.

The limiting factor will be the springs hitting the inside of the wheel well.

Scott
90SM

 

That is what I mean. The blue bar is all the way in toward the center of the engine. I have the Stock size springs.

 

Problem Fixed!!! The part that the two bolts up top bolt to was backwards. I could have got +2 camber that way huh.

I just jacked up the car, took the tire off, remove the two bolts and turn the piece around and put everthing back together.

 

Good news :-)

 

Thank goodness! You'd have the only MINI with front camber plates limited to stock camber settings.

In that situation it's likely something was not assembled or installed properly for the -2 degrees to be possible. Otherwise your front camber will be limited by the suspension upgrades you choose, some will allow a little more or less camber, many will allow up to about -2.4 or -2.5 degrees in the front.

For the rear just make the camber about +1 degree less negative or about -1.0 to -1.3 degree range. More rear negative camber increases understeer.

How about your toe settings? What do you think with your alignment?

 

i always see people refer to the more rear neg camber to increase understeer, it can also be said that it reduces oversteer, depending on where your cars handeling lies. Just info for someone new to suspension that might be reading this... Most of us know this, but some may not, so i thought i would clarify for anyone wondering

 

Yes,

Whenever you want to reduce understeer you are also increasing oversteer.

The MINI (front wheel drive) has a natural tendency to understeer built into it's design which we try to minimize by tuning our suspension upgrades to reduce understeer and increase oversteer up to the point of neutral steering.

However you can overshoot and create a MINI that tends to oversteer much like a rear wheel drive car.

For a chart of what can effect understeer and oversteer see
http://www.240edge.com/performance/reference.pdf

 

So you got your camber more negative like your supposed to with those plates? Like Minihune said, how's your alignment. Camber greatly affects toe...

 

My settings right now are -2 in the front and -1 camber in the back. The toe is 1/16 toe out in the front and 1/16 toe in in the Rear.

I love this setup. I'm faster with this setup. I would go to 1/8 toe out in the front but I drive like 600 miles a week.

By the way I now have the lite weight Flywheel and the LSD now. I just added the Alta V2 intercooler. I have the rear seat delete kit now also.


Side note. If you have the LSD done. Make sure to have the Alignment checked again.

 

in front 5mm spacers effect on alignment?

 

Once you are aligned you cannot change it by adding 5mm spacers alone.

Spacers allow for a little more clearance and at 5mm do little else for most drivers.