BUMP



I'm going to be doing this soon.

Can you get to the drain plug without ramps or jackstands?

 

>>I'm going to be doing this soon.
>>
>>Can you get to the drain plug without ramps or jackstands?

Check out friedduck's post near the top of this page. It's definitely possible, unless the dealer has torqued the drain plug on so hard that you need to get close to it for leverage. It's within arm's reach of the front of the car.

 

I changed my oil this weekend for the first time, and it went pretty smoothly, thanks to the info I read on NAM.

Here are a few pics.

My driveway slopes up to meet the garage entrance, so I was able to get away without using ramps or jackstands.





That's my 13mm wrench on the floor at the bottom right.

 

Got a 36mm Craftsman socket, 13mm wrench, and a set of Rhino ramps at Sears for $41.00 bucks out the door. The right tools make all the difference. Thanks for all the tips on this thread. it was a HUGE help. [img]null[/img]

 

Has anybody changed their oil after installing an oil plug with nipple?

Because I'm installing a skid plate, I installed an oil drain plug with nipple, so I can just use a plastic hose to drain oil without removing skid plate..

I do wonder if draining thru the smaller diameter of the nipple/hose will do an adequate job of removing old oil--the gunge & crud should be taken care of by the oil filter, right?

So is there ever need to remove the whole plug? Hoping for reassurance...

 

>>Has anybody changed their oil after installing an oil plug with nipple?

Nope, none that I heard of but it is possible.

>>Because I'm installing a skid plate, I installed an oil drain plug with nipple, so I can just use a plastic hose to drain oil without removing skid plate..

There is another option. A top side oil changer that works through your dipstick for $49.95
http://www.promini.com/products/oilchanger.shtml
You can still removed your oil filter once the oil is drained.
Your changer should be used only for synthetic oil and not mixed with other regular oils.


>>I do wonder if draining thru the smaller diameter of the nipple/hose will do an adequate job of removing old oil--the gunge & crud should be taken care of by the oil filter, right?

Yes, It will be OK except for the really slow draining rate. Oil junk is supposed to be microscopic smaller than sand.

>>So is there ever need to remove the whole plug?
Only if you want to drain at a faster rate or if you want to spill oil on the ground.

 

Torque values are important! Follow the recommendations!

If you don’t have a metric calibration torque wrench you convert Nm to ft-lb by multiplying the Nm value by 0.74.

25 Nm = 18 ft-lb = 220 in-lb
31 Nm = 23 ft-lb = 275 in-lb

 

The pictures aren't working

 

Try this page:
Oil Change
I just did it for the first time and it went really well.

 

The How-to pics all work over on the Webb Motorsports site in the Garage section.

Here's a link to this one:

http://www.webbmotorsports.com/forum...topic.php?t=10

Let me know if you have any questions.

Hope that helps!
Randy

 

:smile: Thank you for posting all the info on changing the oil, my husband has been fretting over the oil in the mini for two months now. He just doesn't think it should go that long. One question though does the cars computer automatically change after you have done this to remind you of the next oil change? Or is that something that needs to be reset at the dealer? thanks again loops

 

Reset by the dealer.
It would be best to leave it alone just so your dealer doesn't have a reason to whine.

It can actually be done at home but don't.

 

I reset mine at home because it seem like alot of driving to get it reset (8 hour round trip ). I'll see if I can find the procedure here somewhere, I have them in my glovebox so I dont have to search every time I change the oil.


Edit - I think this is the procedure in this thread is the one I used https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...=service+reset


Nik

 

Its 90 plus dollars in the DC area dealers. Why?

 

Because they can. They know that few quick oil change places stock the MINI filters.

In reality it shouldn't be any more than it costs to do any other car - $35 or so.

 

On my 8th oil change. The last one didn't go so well; the O ring apparently broke while screwing the filter housing back together. Upon starting the car to check for leaks, I found one...rather large. Did it all over again. Never had this happen in 1.5 million miles of driving.

 

Don't know if this is true for you, I'm just throwing this out.
Make sure you prelube the O-Ring. A couple drops of clean oil do just fine.

 

I did, as I usually do with these sort of things. I should have anticipated a leak as the housing went on a little 'funny'. A quart of oil all over the driveway, what a mess!


What's a mother to do? Thanks for heads up anyway

Michael

 

Does the drain plug on the Mini require any special torqueing different from any other car?

 

dont know the spec but do not over tighten the oil pan is aluminium

 

25 Nm (18 ft-lb)

 

according to http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htmthe conversion is

25 Nm = 18.43 Lb-ft (for the oil filter housing)!!!!

Drain plug = 31 Nm, or 22.86 (23) Lb-ft

Marty

 

Sorry for the screw-up...don't know where my head was 25Nm = 18 ft-lb per Bentley Service Manual. Torque is the same for the filter housing.

Thanks for the quick catch MartyR.

 

Randy (or anyone),

Using your instructions, I have managed to remove and install the oil filter casing (I removed the casing so I could re-inforce the center prior to tapping a thread for an oil-pressure sender). Like most users I experienced the first time challenges of lining-up the casing (hand tight) on re-installation.

However, I am a little concerned if I installed the new filter in the casing correctly. Since I was originally having difficulties lining up the casing by hand, I decided to push the new filter tightly into the casing prior to fitment

Will having the filter fitted tightly on the casing cause any oil circulation issues in my car? My car is an 02 MCS with a filter like that shown in Randy's instructions.

Appreciate your comments or advice.

DFD

 

just a question.. can a spanner be used instead of a 36mm socket and wrench?

 

I kinda doubt it. Besides, why bother when you can pick-up a 36mm at Sears for just a few $$. Besides, you'll feel better

 

sorry should of mentinoed this earlier..

where im from - u cant buy 36mm sockets unless u buy a set of 50 other sockets for about $150 - 200.

 

That's funny cause I sheared off a brand new set of Harbor Freight tools--13mm wrench the first time I tried to remove my drain plug bolt---after the dealer did an oil change. I then used an impact wrench with a max 250ft pound pressure---had to hold it for about a minute before the bolt came off.

Obviously the dealer didn't put it back to spec!

I replaced mine with a Fumoto valve so I'll never have to worry about it again.

Richard

 

Where are you from

 

You obviously have internet. Can buy 36mm socket on-line at www.sears.com
$6.99 plus shipping

 

great write up

 

This is such great information. BIG thanks. However, I have not yet read any thread mentioning the procedure for oil change with chrono pack. Is everything identical to those without Chrono pack? It will be extremely helpful. Thank you very much.

 

??? The chrono pack is nothing more than a bunch of gauges, right? I can't imagine how that would change the process of replacing the oil. There are no special sensor locations added around the oil-filter housing (that I've seen).

 

Is hand tightling good enough to torque the filter to 18ft-lb? I don't think there's room for a socket and a torque wrench in that space.

 

While you can probably get the filter to 18lb/ft with your hands, don't try. Being wrong would be a very expensive mistake. There's plenty of space if you get the right wrench, although you probably won't be able to get a proper torque wrench in there.

I used a Craftsman "1/2 in. Drive Ratchet, Flex-Head Fine Tooth" (linking to the Craftsman site didn't work) with a 36mm socket, and was able to advance the threads about 2 clicks at a time, then verify the final setting with a torque wrench. It was tedious, but MINI didn't leave us much space.

 

Guess it depends on how strong you are. If you hand tighten, You should have enough room to fit in a torque wrench. You'll find that 18 ftlbs is about a half a grunt with a 3/8 drive ratchet

 

The other thing I notice is it's difficult to find a 1/2" torque wrench that goes to such low setting (18 ft-lb) since I am only able to find 1/2" 36mm socket. Does anyone have advise? I don't believe dealer service department use torque wrench at all.

 

Most service departments seem to use trained gorillas or yoked oxen. We put a torque wrench on mine after the first service, and calculated well over 100 lb-ft was necessary to remove the filter. We had to get a breaker bar with a jack-handle to get it loose, and RedBaronf2001 got a seriously bloody knuckle for his efforts.

 

Its easy copy and paste to your word processing software

 

holy crap, i had no problems removing the filter housing, but the drain plug is on tight.

also the oil didn't drain so well from the canister when i removed it. there's a nice little puddle of old oil in the lower part of my filter housing. =(

man i hope i get my drain plug off soon.